Right I've Decided To Do A T Series Conversion

[cmm_elise_s]

funny thing is I have only made reference to a 6mm FW..........FW = fillet weld........not plate...........only quoting a capacity.....not a posoposed solution....

 

Spoke to my mate Chaz yesterday, he said he would use 1.6mm for this job.

He actually laughed when I said 6mm had been suggested....................

 

Phil, if you have a look at the plates on the front wishbone you will see they're nothing like 6mm, even if added together. There isn't any bracing between the plates either (unlike what you have done), so yours will be strong enough with 1.6mm.

 

No qualifications, I've just have made/modified many chassis (with no failures),

Reg

[Martin R]

Calm down boys. I would hate to let the new moderators loose

[Stumason10]

I don't actually see the point of the tie bar at all, as once fitted to the chassis the wishbone is bolted to the subframe and a bracket on the chassis, which are far stronger than the bar.

 

Bump loads through the suspension, are transmitted via the shock and that bar makes no difference there, and no difference to bending forces.

 

So using my high tech solution, just save weight and chop it out altogether!

 

<runs for cover!>

 

However, as I am Libran and balance things up, I would copy the front wishbone design as obviously they brace them for a reason, just to be on the safe side!

 

MartinR, please ban me, as I waste too much time on here!

[Martin R]

Me to Stu, i was hoping to be banned and they made me a moderator The only difference i can see between the front and back is the following. On the front you have no drive so i expect the loads are different. On the back you have the drive shafts and MASSIVE amounts of power ( with a K series obviously ) This must put some twisting forces on the rear wishbones. Besides that im a spark so what do i know. Interesting all the same.

[Reg]

Sorry I read this.....

are you having a laugh?? replacing a tubular steel bar with some 4 mm plate??

 

Reckon 4 -5 mm mild steel would be bomb proof.Dunc

 

 

And then misread your 6mm

 

Reg

[Stumason10]

Me to Stu, i was hoping to be banned and they made me a moderator The only difference i can see between the front and back is the following. On the front you have no drive so i expect the loads are different. On the back you have the drive shafts and MASSIVE amounts of power ( with a K series obviously ) This must put some twisting forces on the rear wishbones. Besides that im a spark so what do i know. Interesting all the same.

 

It is interesting, can't wait to see the results! And this chat is an aside from what overall has been a fascinating project.

 

I will test my bar removal theory on my car to save some weight, those bars must save a kilo! Lol!

 

Engine torque reaction is at the engine not the hub, at the hub it will experience longitudinal force. Only torque will be from braking as that will put load into the wishbones at the points where the hub joins. I.e. the ball joints. This still will be mainly in the longitudinal planes. Lateral forces, cornering, will be transmitted to the wishbone and down into the chassis.

 

The only reason I can see that the bars are there for is to strengthen up the chassis in those areas and share the load more equally between each mount as the wishbone / chassis may stretch in extremis when under severe accelerative or braking forces.

 

If I could be bothered I'd email my mate at Lotus who works on chassis design and has been there for ages and probably knows the guy who designed the wishbones!

 

Other option is run a long threaded bolt through the lower mounts to replace both bolts, and nip up either side of the mounts if you know what I mean and that would brace both mounts.

 

Best option though is to plate it as Reg or someone ^^^ suggested, to be on the safe side!

 

Or could you run a bar that is curved to avoid the area?

[Phil.S]

OK boys and girls moving on ever so ever so slightly here is my last update for probably a couple of weeks:

 

I CANT GET THE F@@KING THING TO START

 

So basically it's beaten me seen as we move house on Friday I'll have to tow it to the new place (oh the humility) Good job its only 5 mins from our current place!! Well peed off but the bottom line is I've ran out of time. Rear clam is back on (which still fits - phew). The only 3 things left to do are:

 

- Cut and shut the 2 different downpipes together

- Sort the alternator - which I'm on the way with (thanks to liam the ilkeston ISP guy who posted on here earlier)

- Get the pissing sodding thing started!

 

Oooh and not forgetting the fourth one - plate the wishbone!

 

Maybe post a few pics up later in the week if I have a few mins spare to pipe up the renault 5 intercooler.

[JonS]

Bummer! Gutted for you Phil. Hope you get it working soon after the move.

 

Just a quick question for you though, with a new (different) engine in the car, what happens to the mileage/odometer? Does represent the car or the engine?

[Elise+Imp]

Mileage is normally representative of the 'whole' car, so will be the same.

 

Phil, not sure if you've got round to trying to start it again, but a can of easy-start is a wonderful diagnostic aid, give it a squirt in the inlet whilst cranking, if it fires and runs briefly you have a fuel problem, if not then it's sparks.

 

I've seen fuel pipes connected wrong (supply/return crossed over) as well as electrical connections etc. being the culprit.

 

Good Luck

Brian

[Phil.S]

Cheers for the advice Brian. TBH I was rushing to get it started so it would be easier to move when we moved house so never had a real crack at fault finding! Towed it over to my parents house in the end but hey I tried Now I have some time to spend getting everything right before I try to start it up again.

 

Anyways managed to sneak out for a few hours on Sunday and I've got the renault 5 intercooler piped up now and it is looking good! Fits perfectly behind the side scoop as well:

 

 

and the other good news is the clam and bootlid still fits on properly:

 

 

Jobs left to do:

 

- Sort the alternator (from an escort mk3) mounting and get the vee drive crank pulley made up.

- Weld the 2 downpipes together and remount the cat and silencer

- Fabricate a turbo heat shield to protect the bulkhead

- Drill the standard recirc dump valve so it vents to atmosphere and becomes a BOV as I couldnt mount my other one anywhere decent.

- Start the engine up!

[Gary ZBJ]

Looking very tidy indeed

[JonS]

Looks awesome Phil. Can't wait for it to start up

I see you always have a can of your new best friend at hand (1st pic)

[dobbo]

Looking good Phil,

 

Just one question - is the wheelarch liner going to clear the intercooler ? When I did my oil cooler on the RHS, it was moved further forward than that.

I also raised it to be in the airflow - it looks to be a similar size, so it might be that the intercooler of yours isn't high enough yet ?

[Phil.S]

Chris that pic actually shows it loose. I moved it forward when I actually mounted it so it clears the liner but cant go too far as it will foul the clam. As for the airflow I'm planning on making a shroud around the intercooler that attaches to the air scoop so all the air coming in will be chanelled through it.

[Phil.S]

Saturday:

Still no joy. Picked up another ECU last night. Engine now runs on 3 plugs ie with the 4th unplugged but not all 4! Explain that. Turn it off for 5 mins and fit the 4th plug and it runs sweet for about 2 secs and dies. Pulling my hair out with it completely! Giving in for today totally peed off.

 

Sunday:

 

Runs lovely on easy start but not regular unleaded. Bugger. :clap:

 

Monday:

 

Runs on unleaded fuel now but with the ECU MAP sensor pipe removed only. And to top it off the heads going to have to be taken off again as its leaking oil between the head and block. Oh what a totally shite bank holiday weekend Should have waited till winter to do this....