Midlands Lotus Owners Club (MLOC)

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dobbo

Full club member
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dobbo last won the day on June 18 2015

dobbo had the most liked content!

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About dobbo

  • Rank
    Down to one Elise
  • Birthday 31/12/71

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Derbyshire

Additional Information

  • Car Type
    Monster Elise S1
  • Car Colour
    Azure
  • Car Modifications
    http://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/forum/index.php?&act=garage&CODE=12&CID=159
  1. Will have a look mate. If I don't post back, I've forgotten, so remind me ;-)
  2. BZP bolts are often not rated for strength at all. Also, the strength relates to the load the bolt can sustain under axial tension, rather than bending load (see below). I'm not going to suggest that Mike doesn't know his stuff, but one problem with fitting stronger bolts to the original design is that you can transfer the stresses from somewhere designed to flex to somewhere else that isn't. Perhaps Lotus designed around an 8.8, or perhaps it was the bolt that they had 1000s of in the parts bin. One other problem with rose joints is lack of lubrication / dirt ingress causing it to seize (as I'm sure you already know). If a joint were starting to seize, rather than acting as a ball-joint it would transfer a bending load to a bolts at either end. once this starts, it is massively amplified in the bottom of the threads and causes fatigue cracking at the bottom of a thread. It is nearly impossible to identify during any inspection (even if you took the bolts out and did a dye-penetrant inspection, then refitted the good ones). Once fatigue has started, a stronger but more brittle bolt is more likely to snap under impact load compared to high cornering loads. With racing situations, frequent examination / replacement would reduce this risk. I had the Spitfire toe-links fitted some years ago and have done loads more than 2 track days (albeit slower than you...) on sticky tyres. I don't know what bolts are fitted though. I could check if you want ? Some kits also come with a small shroud to fit over the inboard links, this spreads the load to the chassis through extra fixings, but obviously isn't your issue if your failure was at the hub end. Worth contacting DerbyJim, who had a similar failure. I'm pretty sure his was also at the outboard end (of the OS toelink).
  3. Black seems to be discontinued on EP.
  4. I've always used Inner Ring (now Mr Tyre). Happy to fit my tyres and do proper (high speed) balancing.
  5. No idea on actual polish to use, but I have a little-used polisher you're welcome to borrow. Thought I'd use it on the Elise but it's too big to get into a lot of the curves.
  6. Also, the bracket for the slave cylinder is pretty flexible. Eliseparts sell a stiffer one.
  7. I've read that the clutch is really hard to bleed correctly, so might be worth having a few more goes. It's not as easy as brakes because with brakes you get a firm pedal that then goes to the floor when bleeding whereas the clutch pedal is designed to go to the floor anyway. I think you can make it more like brake bleeding by blocking the slave cylinder movement and therefore when you open the bleed nipple you are actually pushing fluid through the system. Not tried it myself, but makes sense to me. Also, until it's sorted, it might be worth trying 2nd immediately before 1st when selecting 1st from stand still. This worked with my old one when we had the red clutch pipe syndrome (that caused the slave cylinder to not travel fully).
  8. The charcoal canister valve is a solenoid valve, so is usually a clicking noise rather than knocking, but that could depend how bad the valve is. Easy enough to check, though. Simple connector for the wiring with a spring tab to release it. Car will run fine with it disconnected and no MoT issues either, which makes you wonder why it was ever fitted ! Not sure where it is on the S2, but this should help (still looks like the engine bulkhead behind the pax seat) https://www.deroure.com/partinfo.asp?MAK=0&MDL=0&TBL=0&SMA=1&SMO=14&ST=charcoal&SC=0&PBID=40084 Unfortunately, DeRoure says this part has been replaced, and also shows the replacement as obsolete !
  9. Have a good one, Leigh
  10. Fair enough, as long as you've seen the info you can make an informed decision. Personally, with my use of the car, I wouldn't be risking it, but I understand why you're both happy with them.
  11. RC5 ??? You have been reading the various SELOC threads, have you ? Brave man... RC5 ??? You have been reading the various SELOC threads, have you ? Brave man... Edit. Unless the RC5+ are different to the RC5.
  12. Bearings are cheap enough. I did mine with parts from Woods (I think, not hard to find on t'interweb). Just take your time and be careful drifting the old ones off. I damaged the rotor and needed to replace that as well. Still cheaper than a new one though.
  13. Does it go even under really light pressure on the brake pedal ? If so, almost certainly the pads rattling. Noises travel round the Elise chassis very easily and are very hard to pin-point sometimes.
  14. Serves you right for doing something silly like exercise !!! Seriously, though. Ouch. Hope it's not too painful and you have a speedy recovery without surgery.
  15. Look like the sneaky ones appearing elsewhere on motorways. At least this time they're yellow not grey.