kayj_prod Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 Phil, just a little suggestion for when you come to put your rear clam back on. I put mine back on on Sunday with help from my neighbour. Firstly, a third person would have been really useful. A spotter as it were. Secondly, I would suggest masking the visible elements of the bonded section below the roll hoop which the clam has to be pulled out and around. The masking could then be removed. Sadly, I have marked my lovely new paint job, but at least it is an area which can be re-painted without too much concern for blending in. Live and learn!
KingK_series Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 Phil, just a little suggestion for when you come to put your rear clam back on. I put mine back on on Sunday with help from my neighbour. Firstly, a third person would have been really useful. A spotter as it were. Secondly, I would suggest masking the visible elements of the bonded section below the roll hoop which the clam has to be pulled out and around. The masking could then be removed. Sadly, I have marked my lovely new paint job, but at least it is an area which can be re-painted without too much concern for blending in. Live and learn! it gets easier the more you do it -
Phil S1 Posted May 15, 2012 Author Posted May 15, 2012 Thanks for the tip Keith, I did scrape mine a bit in that area when we removed it, all touched up again now but I will try using some tape when we get round to refitting it. I put the oil pump back together on mine and refitted it to the car over the weekend. I got the oil pump seal kit from the link that Martin posted earlier in the thread. It comprises of the long oil pump seal, a crankshaft seal and a new pressure relief spring. The clear conical piece of plastic is a sleeve that fits over the crankshaft to protect the new seal during assembly... I got the new gasket from Rimmer Brothers... I also sorted a slight leak I had on the sleeved joint in my Larini exhaust. Basically it needed a better clamp and one of these has done the trick nicely:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mikalor-59mm-63mm-Heavy-Duty-Supra-STAINLESS-STEEL-Hose-Clamp-Clip-W2-/160660402185?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item25681b3009#ht_966wt_866 In between all that I'm gradually giving the bodywork a bit of a fettle with some clay, polish, touch up paint, glaze, sealer and wax so if nothing else it should be good and shiny when it finally emerges from it's lair
Paul_C Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 Give me a shout if you need a hand with the clam etc mate
Phil S1 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Posted June 7, 2012 Quick update, it's looking like my head is going to be ready for collection from Roger early next week I'll soon be back on the road again to enjoy this wonderful summer weather
Daniel Posted June 7, 2012 Posted June 7, 2012 Excellent, Look forward to watching you put it back together
Martin R Posted June 7, 2012 Posted June 7, 2012 Phil, good news im sure you will not be disappointed. If you need a hand, give me a shout
DeanB Posted June 7, 2012 Posted June 7, 2012 Excellent news Phil. I was beginning to worry you might not make Chatsworth.
Phil S1 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Posted June 8, 2012 Thanks guys, I'm going to collect it on Tuesday, all being well. I'll be sure to take some photos of course.
Martin R Posted June 8, 2012 Posted June 8, 2012 Phil, something you might wish to consider. When i have done them and you come to the final tightening ie 180 + 180. I really dont like the way the longbolts feel when you do the last 40 or 50 degrees on each tightening. You can feel them twisting rather than tightening. I notice Vicente at VGK recommends you do 90 + 90 + 90 + 90. This makes a lot of sense to me. It has to be a more even an accurate way to do it ? I dont know what you think but it is the way i will do my next one.
Phil S1 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Posted June 8, 2012 Sounds a reasonable approach to me Martin, I'll try and remember when we get round to it. Roger's been in contact with me today. I left the old exhaust gasket with my head and he's noticed that it's been leaking which could well explain the 'tappet' type sound I've been getting now and again. He reckons there's only about 1 to 1.5mm of seal area and thinks the bores are either too large or some of the weld has melted away. Here's a photo of it when it was new, not sure how it compares to other manifolds although Roger says it looks just like a Janspeed:- Anyway, I'm going to take it with me on Tuesday and if necessary Roger knows a local company that can tig a run of weld around the offending areas to restore it.
Guest eva123 Posted June 9, 2012 Posted June 9, 2012 thanks for the information. nice pics phil ------------------------------------------------------------- 2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS
Phil S1 Posted June 10, 2012 Author Posted June 10, 2012 A few more photos from today. Bri brought me a few more bits 'n' pieces yesterday, in preparation for the big rebuild:- I decided to use the Payen elastomer head gasket, as recommended by Dave Andrews and our resident MLOC guru - Martin. The kit also contains inlet manifold gaskets for both the std and VVC plenums. I'm using the VVC gaskets so if anyone wants the std (green rubbery) one then let me know. The head gasket itself is very similar to the old one except that it has more strips of elastomer as can be seen below:- With reference to Martin's earlier comment about the tightening increments for the new head bolts, the Payen instructions suggest an initial 20Nm followed by four 90 degree increments, so very much in line with VGK racing's recommendation:- I also removed my Larini manifold to have a better look at how well the exhaust gasket aligned with it (and yes Mr Fish, I did have to remove the oil filter in the process ). From the photo below, you'll see the footprint of the old gasket and how little sealing area there is on the lower side of the bores in comparison to the upper:- The bores in the manifold are both larger and more significantly not concentric with those in the gasket, meaning there is only about 1,50mm of sealing area on the lower edges:- I'll be taking the manifold with me on Tuesday to see what Rog at Sabreheads has to say. Whilst the manifold was off it did create another cleaning opportunity I took the P clips off, securing the lower coolant rail so that I could clean both the rail and the bulkhead behind it as I believe the rail can corrode in this region. I didn't go overboard with it because I didn't want to damage the anodised layer, so I just degreased it with Autoglym engine and machine cleaner and then sprayed it with some ACF50. I degreased the engine block while I was there too....it looks a bit better for it
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