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Lotus in the Peak
28th - 30th June 2024

Hgf + Diy = Kr1


Phil S1

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Good work Phil, that engine looks in good condition and lack of a dowel on one side might have caused head shuffle.

 

I put an Payen MLS on mine and also put a stronger oil rail on.

 

When you put the dowels in they need to stand proud 10 to 10.5 mm.

 

Good pictures Martin, I clearly couldnt have seen the new ductile from underneath, because I didnt have the cank or oil pump out, So I must have been talking out of my bottom, apologies for any mis information.

 

Oh Phil....dont forget to measure your head bolts and check the threads.

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Jamie, thats what forums are all about. To bat ideas about and we all learn something :)

 

Phil, what i intend to do Re my oil pump. I have got some micrometer Blue.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stuarts-Micrometer-Engineers-Marking-Blue-38g-Tin-/270951504545?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item3f15f7daa1

 

You need to be careful how you open the tin or it will go all over the place. I intend to take a new oil pump apart. IIRC the one face has the channels in it. Remove the seal and mark the edges of the channels with a small amount of the blue.

 

If you then screw the 2 bits back together and take them apart, it should leave the path of the channels on the other face. You then just need to fettle to suit as per DVA's site. Hopefully job done.

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It is a VVC plenum John, I fitted it some time ago and had a go at matching the head inlets then. TBH I think the general opinion is that the original plastic intake is more effective, not to mention considerably lighter.

 

Not long been back from dropping my head off with Roger at Sabre Heads, boy can he talk! Considering how busy he is, he was more than happy to show me his set up and the various jobs he's got on the go. It got a bit too technical at times, I could really have done with Brian or Martin with me to interpret ;)

He seemed pleased with the condition of my head anyway, he could see a bit of porosity around the fire rings but compared to some he showed me it looked like new. Not sure when he'll get round to doing it but I've got plenty else to do in the meantime.

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Phil, good news. Thats why you peen the head before a skim. The hammering closes the voids produced due to the way the heads are cast. DVA showed me one he had done. The peening eliminates just about all the porosity. A bit crude but effective.

 

I have had a reply re the oilway mod and have made a bit of pipe to fit. I will update the previous post a bit later. Rog does have a reputation to be able to gas a bit :)

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I'm sure you got on ok, did he give any guidance on head gasket type?

 

I had half an hour when i got home, hope i'm not stealing your thread, but this is how your crank pully is at the moment, i was tempted to do a big chamfer on the inside edge, but the run-out in the central section would mean the balance would be affected, so i've left alone,

 

Mandrill turned to suit bore of pully

IMG_1730a.jpg

 

tapped M10

IMG_1732.jpg

 

pulley mounted up

IMG_1734a.jpg

 

redundant A/C section turned off

IMG_1741a.jpg

 

then i felt guilty at all the crap in the background in the previous pics - so i had a bit of a tidy up, a rare occurance.......

IMG_1743a.jpg

 

if i remember the micrometer blue should make it into the internal post tomorrow with any luck, as martin say's be careful, a little goes a long way, especially on your clothes :D

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Blimey, what a team! Thanks for all the support :cheers:

Roger's preference did seem to be towards the Chinese gasket, he showed me one, it must have had 4 or more layers to it, it looked pretty thick. I mentioned about my 2 thou liner heights and he said that was typical for most of the K's he'd worked on. He showed me loads of different heads, even motorbike ones but he said there was virtually no work for him on those as they're all ported out from new. He also showed me some of the Chinese head bolts he'd had recently that he's sending back. You could see the seating faces were only part machined and he'd had others where the seating face wasn't square to the shaft.

Just to expand on my comments regarding the Chinese bolts, this has only been a very recent occurrence, prior to which, Roger has had no issues. He still recommends both the bolts and the gasket as the best possible HGF fix and will continue to supply and fit them.

 

Oh Bri,

Roger showed me a pulley he'd machined down.....it looked just like that only better......his was RED ;)

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Thanks for the updated photos Martin, just to be sure I presume you are saying that the open face of the cut-away tube should face outwards towards the oil pump?

 

John, I didn't remove the head in order to open up the inlets, just carefully blocked them up to prevent any swarf getting in there.

 

Now then, since dropping my head off with Roger yesterday I needed to do something to while away the time so I thought I'd play 'I spy'....always used to work as a kid!

 

I spy with my little eye......

 

......something beginning with..........

 

.....D.

 

IMG_2762.jpg

 

....Can you tell what it is yet?

 

 

 

I'll give you a clue.

It came from the hole on the left in this photo...

IMG_2755.jpg

 

Yes....it's the long lost dowel :blink:

Unbeknown to us at the time it must have momentarily lifted up with the head and then dropped back down the adjacent bolt hole.

 

Fortunately, with a bit of delicate fishing using a piece of garden wire bent into a hook I managed to retrieve it...

IMG_2763.jpg

 

I'll sleep alot easier now :clap:

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Although not obvious in the photo, I think it would have been possible to fit the new head bolts without being baulked by the dowel because the dowel was lodged to the RH side of the cast gallery as you look at it in the photo. Not sure what would have happened ultimately if it had remained there. I really should thank kiwirog because it was him that got me having another look for it, whilst I was with him he picked up a spare head and re-enacted removing it to understand what might have happened to it.

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