Hgf + Diy = Kr1

[a7esk]

Thanks for the info Martin, think I'll give that a try

 

Well Bri, apart from taking the roll bar cover and rear window out, I think I'm about ready for you!

I managed to remove the other hex head bolt behind the speaker on the passenger side without removing the seat. It was just possible to remove the speaker using a dumpy phillips screwdriver.

Other remaining bits were:-

• Filler surround (4 Phillips screws).
  
• Disconnect air intake ducts.
  
• Disconnect rear lights - Multi-plug and 2 bullet connectors in the boot and push through into passenger side wheel arch.
  
• Disconnect boot release cable and push through into driver side wheel arch.
  
• Disconnect exhaust brackets supporting the back box.
  

Probably about 3 hours in total but I've had a fair few of these fasteners undone and copper greased previously so that helped.

I took one or two photos:-

This was the troublesome buttonhead screw position where the bonded-on nut had come unstuck. (The hole going through the gold stripe). With the undertrays off it was possible to get my arm up inside the sill just in front of the axle stand...

 

 

This is the offending nut that will need re-bonding...

 

The hex head screws behind the speakers have a number of spacer washers fitted which will no doubt drop out and roll off somewhere when we lift the clam so I've taken a photo of each side for reference, this is the passenger side...

 

and here's a picture of the 2 exhaust brackets in the process of removal...

Drivers side

 

Passenger side

 

Time to put my feet up now and wait for Bri

Just had confirmation today from Elise Parts that my PRT's on it's way too....it's all coming together (or should that be apart) nicely

Great updates really looking forward in opp 2

Eddie

[jimbo07g41]

Jamie, half section ? I presume you mean a 45 degree angle in the pipe ? The long end going against the block face ? It has to be 125mm long IIRC ?

 

The oil hole is in the middle of this pic. Strange photos i keep

Its the one immediatly below and in the middle of the big semi circle at the top. The oil feeds out the back of the oil pump and up through this hole and the channel up the block face. It then goes through the center of the dowel to feed the head.

Sorry Phil but i just would like to clarify this point. I happen to have a block that needs this mod and its all useful information for the future.

 

 

I cut the ductile pipe through the centre from the top for 8mm with a hacksaw. I used a fine tip marker pen to mark out the 8mm. The long end does go against the block face as you suggest. I guess the theory is that you have best chance of repairing the cracks without blocking the horizontal oilway.

 

I think DVA gave me the measurement in imperial and I seem to recall 5 inches (127mm). Might be best to drop him a message (I have deleted my message) on SELOC as I have always found him really nice and quick to respond. I used Loctite 648 to secure the dowel. You want it flush with the top of the dowel seat on the head so that it does not interfere with the dowel. I then just did a quick visual check that it was not coming petruding out the crank end of the block.

 

Jamie/Martin,

I presume the oilway mod is achievable without taking the engine out completely? Is there any info regarding the mod (tube size etc..) on Dave's website?

 

By the way Martin, the heaters are for my clam's benefit, in an attempt to prevent the paint cracking when we remove it. I couldn't care less how cold Bri is ;-)

Would that block have anything to do with a 1.9K by any chance?

 

As Martin says regarding where the hole is and you just need access to the block face. Make sure you put the dowel in straight and with a steady hand making certain you dont twist it. I took a digital caliper to measure the thickness of the tube and got mine from B&Q.

[Elise+Imp]

Phil,

 

3hours to get the clam off is about what mine took, but about 4.1/2 to go back on! certainly isn't quicker than working around it, though you don't get chance to embrace the cleaning fetish

The same fixing came out of rear sill on my car, i just cleaned it up and tiger sealed it back in, used a bolt and socket on the outside to pull it into place while it goes off.

 

Martin / jamie,

so can the oilway mod be done without taking the oil pump (and i assume sump) off? just thinking if phil decides to do this and the oilway through the block is too tight then i could reduce the o/d of the tube in lathe rather than drilling block and contaminating the oil ways.

if i remember i'll bring some 6mm silver steel to gauge the oilway if needed?

[Martin R]

Brian, you can remove the oil pump without removing the sump. I would strongly recommend doing the DVA oil pump mods anyway. All will be revealed at the weekend when i will do a few more pics. I have been giving it some thought. If you are removing the oil pump you may as well drill the hole out to 6mm.

 

I happen to have a 6mm long series drill. You could as you say make the O/D smaller. The tube fits in my spare block with no fettling so you may be lucky.

[Phil S1]

Thanks for all the useful info guys, I think I'll give both the oil-way and pump mods a go while it's all in bits. Look forward to your pics over the weekend Martin and thanks for the new bolt and liner retainers that arrived in the post today, along with my PRT

[DeanB]

What a marvellous thread this is. I might even have a go at the same on mine later in the year...

 

Thanks guys.

[Martin R]

Phil, something i forgot to mention. When you lift the head from the block, as soon as you lift it place a large bit of cardboard or the missis roasting tin in the gap between the block and head.

 

It amazed me how much oil a head holds even with the oil drained. If you tilt it slightly it WILL go all over the engine etc. Its a real pain to clean up. good luck.

[Phil S1]

Another top tip from Martin, you know you ought to write a book sometime. I'll be sure to have the roasting tin at the ready . Sunday dinner might never be the same again though!

[olliecast]

Cracking job Phil, watching this with interest!

 

Cheers; ollie

[jimbo07g41]

Phil,

 

3hours to get the clam off is about what mine took, but about 4.1/2 to go back on! certainly isn't quicker than working around it, though you don't get chance to embrace the cleaning fetish

The same fixing came out of rear sill on my car, i just cleaned it up and tiger sealed it back in, used a bolt and socket on the outside to pull it into place while it goes off.

 

Martin / jamie,

so can the oilway mod be done without taking the oil pump (and i assume sump) off? just thinking if phil decides to do this and the oilway through the block is too tight then i could reduce the o/d of the tube in lathe rather than drilling block and contaminating the oil ways.

if i remember i'll bring some 6mm silver steel to gauge the oilway if needed?

 

Some of the block castings are slightly under 6mm and hence why you drill it out. But I suggest you measure your ductile tube to check its O/D and then it should just slot in. As you say Brian, do a test before you cut it down and this will petrude out the top of the block. Only get the drill out if you need to.

 

Another top tip from Martin, you know you ought to write a book sometime. I'll be sure to have the roasting tin at the ready . Sunday dinner might never be the same again though!

 

Phil, just make certain you remove the chicken first, as I find it gave it a synthetic taste afterwards.

 

Joking aside, old roasting trays are great for keeping bolts in etc. or as a general drip tray!

[Phil S1]

Well it's all gone more or less to plan today.

The first thing we established is that whilst I'd earlier proved to Brian that it is possible to remove all the clam fixings without removing the engine cover it soon became abundantly clear that you can't remove the clam without removing the engine cover so i may as well have done that right at the start

Flexing the clam sides outwards to clear the door pillars was a bit of a stressful time for me more than the fibreglass, the passenger side was a bit reluctant for some reason. Another slight baulking feature was a small nut and bolt that someone had put through the boot floor to stop the exhaust heatshield from rattling, can't imagine who'd done that

Hardest part over and it looks like this...

 

 

From there it's just a case of lifting it far enough back to clear the exhaust tail pipes and then up and away.

Then it was down to the nitty gritty of the job, draining the coolant, undoing the crankshaft bolt, slackening the cambelt tensioner, removing the alternator heatshield and taking the exhaust manifold off...

 

Removing the cam cover and inlet manifold...

 

before...... undoing the longest bolts on the whole car and removing the head....

 

After our futile attempt to catch all the remaining oil and coolant using said roasting tin and cardboard, we mopped up and noticed two things in the above photo that the more observant of you should spot.

One is that the dowels are plastic, The second is? Answers please.

 

We couldn't see anything obviously amiss with the gasket itself...

 

Liner heights measured a reasonably consistent 2 thou, not the textbook 4 thou, so I'll see what Roger has to say about that on Monday.

To be on the safe side, we fitted Martin's liner clamps. Thanks Martin, they arrived just in time ...

 

Here's a shot from each side of the car, the roll bar stays aren't too bad but I think a lick of paint wouldn't go amiss nonetheless...

 

 

and it looks like my daily car's going to have to live outside for a while now....

 

I've skipped through the detail a bit but hopefully it gives some idea of how the day went.

As ever, a big thanks to Brian for making the trip again to do all the difficult stuff.

[Martin R]

Phil, top job. Why do you only have 1 dowel ? I would be reasonably pleased with a consistent 2 thou stand proud. I presume Rog is going to hardness test and peen the head ? I used the MLS gasket as i had 4 thou stand proud and i also has a small indent in the head. I hoped the extra shim would prevent a repeat.

 

If the car were mine in your case i would fit the uprated Payen gasket. I expect Rog will recommend the Chinese alternative. IMO thats like using a sledge hammer to crack a nut. You however will have to make your own mind up.

[Phil S1]

Well done Martin for spotting the lack of a second dowel, top of the class!

We're pretty sure there wasn't one fitted on that side, which is the one the oil comes through. It's not in the head and we had a good look round but couldn't see that it had dropped out . Doesn't look like the clam's been off before and similarly don't think the head has either so is it possible it could have been missing from day one?

Regarding the gasket, in one of my previous conversations with Roger I'm sure he mentioned that he's recently started seeing some problems with the Chinese gasket so maybe his recommendation may now be swayed more towards the Payen one.

Roger does peen the head as part of the upgrade but I'm not sure about the hardness test, extract from his webpage below:-

PRICE, KR1 - £695 Excluding Delivery- What's in the headwork?? £130 of 8 new 2mm larger performance Inlet valves, £40 of 8 new OE Inlet valve guides- necessary with the larger valves for a couple of reasons, £28 of new valve seals, exh valve redress/reshaping, All required porting, all required chamberwork, Controlled three angle seatwork- see my specialist equipment in the photos elsewhere on the site, check valve seal/lap/blue & doublecheck, Chamber Volume checks, Face peening/faceskim/volume rechecks plus much else besides, Finally a thorough scrub/wash & assembly.

[Martin R]

Phil, that is a decent price for quite a bit of work.When you put the head back on with the steel dowels, it might be worth taking a small amount off the length. Apparently a few have been slightly too long and have stopped the head seating properly after.

 

Some pics from my block as promised. The first one is of the front top face dowel hole. You can see the oilway in the middle of the hole from the oil pump. This lubricates the head.

 

 

The next pic shows where the oil pump bolts on to the crank. I have labelled the holes. The arrows show the approximate direction of the oil flow to and from the pump rotor.

 

1. Is the oil flow from the sump.

2. Is the oil flow to the oil filter.

3. Is the oil flow back from the oil filter.

4. Is the oil flow to the crank etc.

5. Is the oil flow to the head via the front face of the block and the dowel hole.

 

 

I decided to try and get a reasonably accurate measurment of the front oil way. To this end i found a drill that went in the hole and is a reasonable fit. For some reason an 8mm drill would not go in. However a 5/16 of an inch would. This makes the hole approx 7.95mm in diameter.

 

 

I then measured from the top face to the drill using my vernier calipers. It turned out to be 143mm.

 

 

I then measured the the bottom of the dowel hole from the top face this was approx 11mm.

143mm - 11mm = 132mm. This should be a fairly accurate measurment of the oilway length. The last pic shows the 6mm thin walled ally tube i am going to use the sleeve the oilway and its eventual resting place.

 

 

Phil, hope this helps a bit. I am going to email DVA regarding the end profile of the pipe to prevent any confusion. You should be able to relate some of this to the oil pump mods pic on his website.

 

 

This is what i have decided to do regarding the ally pipe after some advice from DVA. He reommends cutting the pipe up the middle longways for approx 8mm. I decided to do mine 10mm to make sure it clears all the hole. You then cut across the pipe and are left with this.

 

 

I obviously cleaned all the ends with a small file to remove any swarf etc. I also used a larger drill to remove the fraze from the internal face of the pipe. You are then left with this ready to fit in the block. Hopefully a reasonable pic.

 

 

You then just need to fit it to the block using the afore mentioned Loctite 648. I made my pipe approx 140mm long to go from the bottom of the hole to the bottom of the dowel hole. The long face left needs to go against the block face to prevent blocking the oil flow to the head. I can see when mine is as the block is on the table. A mirror may help if the block is in the car.

 

To be continued.

[Phil S1]

Great post Martin, very informative, I look forward to the updates.

I actually got round to removing the oil pump this afternoon, I had a quick look at DVA's website but I've not taken it apart just yet.

I removed the lower timing belt cover, followed by the crankshaft timing gear in the picture below...

It came off fairly easily with a bit of a tap since we'd only taken it off the other week when Brian did the cambelt. You can see the tang at the 3 o'clock position that drives the crankshaft pulley.

The timing gear itself is driven by a 'D' shape on the end of the crankshaft, again at the 3 o'clock position as you can see in the next photo with the timing gear and oil pump removed...

 

Here's the oil pump with it's gasket as it came off the car...

 

and with the gasket removed...

 

That was about it for today, apart from knocking up a wooden frame to support the head ready for the trip to Wisbech in the morning.