Starter motor “click”

[Jonathan E]

Thanks Martin that's very kind of you. I'll try and test it at the starter tomorrow and report back. I'm working over in West Brom on Thursday so depending on results you might be seeing me. I'll report back when I've had chance to check it out

[Martin R]

Jon,connect the black to the engine block and the red to the big terminal on the starter and see what you get. If it clicks, check min voltage before trying again. I have a calibrated Fluke if you need a decent meter. However if yours reads min voltage its probably half decent?

[Jonathan E]

I don't have a meter that reads min voltage but I can get hold of one. If I connect mine to the red terminal and black to the block I'm getting 12.6v. Tried to start this morning got the click so  measured again and got a reading of 12.3v. I can't check what it's dropping to on load at the moment as nobody else here to crank the engine while I check the meter. Will pick up a multi tester with min voltage later.

[Martin R]

I have one Jon if you want to use it. They will not be cheap.

[Jonathan E]

Thanks Martin, I can borrow one from a friend his company have several👍

[Jonathan E]

Unfortunately I haven't been able to borrow a meter that can give minimum volts, but I have been able to get someone to crank the car while checking the reading at the starter motor result was 10.26v. Typically I couldn't get it to click this evening. I did notice this morning that my battery conditioner was still showing an amber light after being plugged in all night which is unusual as it tends to be green when the car has been connected for any length of time. Its very intermittent at the moment so will just have to keep my fingers crossed for this weekend. Martin, I'll probably take you up on your kind offer re the meter but need to sort out some free time to have a play.

[Martin R]

Jon, you are welcome to the starter or the meter to use. You need to see the voltage when it clicks. 10.26 is ok but it may well be a fair bit lower when it clicks? Try the starter motor i have first as it will be cost free and see if that sorts it.

[Jonathan E]

Hi Martin,

I think Im going to put a new battery on it anyway, I had a trawl through the receipts that came with the car and found one that lists Bosch battery in May 2008, no idea if thats the one thats on the car but suspect it is. 10 years is quite a long time for a battery and at least I can then count that out if the problem persists, plus I don't feel so bad about spending a few quid on it given its age. Did another check on the starter this morning and reading was 10.01v, can't get the bloody thing to click now though. If it still gives the problem with a new battery I'll be after borrowing your spare one.Thanks again for your help

[russelld]

Jonathan try this :

Do not disconnect your Elise  battery.

Connect jump leads from the battery of another car to the Elise battery.

Start the other car and leave it idling.

Make sure all 4 jump lead connections are good.

Try to start your Elise.

If your Elise starts, its your flat battery that is the fault.

If you get the Elise running leave it idling for a few minutes with both jump leads still connected. Turn off the engine of the other car then connect a volt metre across the battery.

If you are getting more than 13.5V your alternator is working as it should. 

Hope this helps

Russ

[Jonathan E]

Thanks Russ, The problem is, most of the time it starts but occasionally get the click, turn off and try again and it turns over and starts. I haven’t tried the jump lead trick, but after cranking when the car starts the voltage runs up to 14+ volts so I’m assuming the alternator is good. It probably is the starter motor but I’m just off to pick up a new battery anyway, due to the  assumed age of the present battery I think it’s best to get a new one. If that doesn’t solve the problem I’m off to knock on Martins door to borrow his spare😄

[DeanB]

If my memory serves when i had dodgy starters on old bangers i had in the past the trick was, when they did the click thing, to put the car in top gear and then push it forward a few feet - the starter would usually then engage.

If you get stuck you could always try that 

[Jonathan E]

55 minutes ago, DeanB said:

If my memory serves when i had dodgy starters on old bangers i had in the past the trick was, when they did the click thing, to put the car in top gear and then push it forward a few feet - the starter would usually then engage.

If you get stuck you could always try that 

Yep I remember it well🤣 or belt the starter with a large hammer/piece of wood/Spanner etc. It hasn’t quite come to that yet though😄

[Jonathan E]

Well, a new battery hasn't cured the problem, in fact it seems worse if thats possible....Looks like a new starter motor then

[Jonathan E]

Just to round things up. It turned out to be the starter motor and thanks to Martin, his spare starter motor, and a quick 5am Shrewsbury to Birmingham and back blast, my car is now as good as new. Fitting wasn't too bad, usual Lotus diy skinned knuckles and forearms I actually look like I'm ready for the self harming clinic I found tackling it from underneath to be the best way to get at the retaining nuts. Big Big thanks to Martin for supplying his spare starter and enabling me to enjoy my trip up to the North East. As I needed the starter first thing this morning Martin had left it in a secret location at his house so I was able to collect it at an ungodly hour without disturbing him and his good lady.....I'm not quite sure what Martin's neighbour thought of a Chris Evans look alike rummaging through his wheely bin at 6:30am on saturday morning, and then leaving with a heavy looking carrier bag, but who cares my Lotus is back in tip top condition

 

[MG Ant]

Hi Jonathan

I have same symptoms. Normally starts fine; occasionally goes' click', but starts fine when key turned again. So, likely the S-M but of course could be a bad connection. I think I'll buy a S-M in any case, and if I find any loose connections on the way, then I might fix that and see what happens.

I would be grateful for some hints on S-M replacement - I am new to Elise (but not KSeries engines - have one in my Midget, but that has a T9 box and Cateerham bell-housing, so S-M behind exhaust down-pipes); e.g. taking off the tray... the simplest things....!
 

TIA

 

Anthony