Exige Motorsport S1 Honda With Jackson Supercharger - Engine Fuel Pump

[SCOTTJ]

Thanks Numbnuts! I can see a pump very simular to that one. There is also another one screwed to the bulk head, again like a canister mounted on rubber, and a swirl pot as you describe. I will take pictures tonight and map the fuel flow... All are wired perminant from position 2 of the ignition (

 

If i can workout if ECU has pinout for reverse gear i will use that other wise i will put relay on break light feed as you suggest.

 

Cheers

 

Martin, I've put a S2 Sport 190 VHPD in my blue RaceTech, it runs so sweet 25K miles on!!!!

 

Mmmm perhaps swap engines and get best of both worlds!!!!!!!

[Numbnutz]

The second canister may be the fuel filter.

 

I think, get your new car on track when the weather picks up and you will fall in love. How much (ball park) did you pay for it, and what mileage if you don't mind me asking? Looks lovely btw. ....

[SCOTTJ]

I paid quite a lot and if i decide to sell it i will want to recoop the same figure

 

The JRSC engine conversion cost is around £13K + VAT so when this appeared with Nitrons, alloy bellied discs, upgraded wishbones, Exige Motorsport body and upgraded anti roll bars i decided it was time to try one and i was immediatly hooked, even if it is only for a few months!

 

I've looked at the honda conversions for a number of years and always wanted one, I was in conversation with Joe at ProtoTypeRacing back in 2003 but the thought of the international money transfer put me off big time! Even though he said he could supply a new K20A's...

 

I always wanted to try one, and yes it is blisteringly quick and constant power from 1200bhp as you know, with zero lag to 7K+. My S2 VHPD sport 190 with 100bhp shot of NOS comes err close-ish, but the bottle only lasts 4-5 runs at SantaPod. This is constant and the supercharge whine is adictive, yet the car can be driven reasonably normally and return 25-35mpg.

 

Nearly loosing my licence last year in FQ-360MR has tainted my road driving somewhat so i'm not sure if this will be just to tempting and with no rear visiablity not ideal. Like you say the right weather and A048's and it will stick to the road. Just not sure yet!

 

I've only driven it in current conditions and it is a real handful, every gear it feels like you are spinning it, LSD is great fun though and stops you losing the back end )

 

We will see.... first stage tidy the few niggly bits up...

[MilesH]

 

 

That looks very much like an OMEX 710 ECU. It's worth taking it off the supporting bracket as it should have 'OMEX 710' written on the other side.

 

If it is an OMEX then there are only 2 places that would have done the conversion either Phoenix Motorsport in Accrington or OMEX themselves in Cheltenham - both were under Tony Stannsfield.

 

If you can confirm it's an OMEX I can let you have Tony's contact details as he should have all the wiring diagrams

[Numbnutz]

Good spot Miles. I haven't seen an Omex, so I didn't want to guess, but the serial port stood out to me.

 

Scott, it probably is spinning ha ha - the roads are terrible at the moment and all this salt does not help with the power and torque you have there. I'm not so sure that your FQ 360 or this is the sort of car that will keep a licence. Maybe you should start looking at push bikes just in case. ;o)

[Dr H]

If the pump in the tank is not working and you have the Bosch pump on the bulkhead then it will struggle. Apparently the Bosch has a 'push' so pumps out loads but not a vey good 'pull' so it needs to either be very low down, basically at the bottom of the tank or it needs to in-tank pumpto feed it as a lifter - as Numbnutz says.

 

But you seem to say there are 2 pumps that you can see. One with a swirl pot on the bulkhead sounds like the setup used in the Link-up converion like mine. Where is the other pump?

 

The basics set up of mine is like this. Pic could be simpler but I drew it as it looked in the car, bit of a spaghetti set up! The pipes going into the bulkhead are the feed (right side) and return (left side) for the in-tank pump.

[SCOTTJ]

MIles it is a OMEX 710 ECU!!! (Accelerator cable froze in blue Elise n i broke bracket under dash, so spent all morning with heater under car defrosting that!!! Two Elises and both were out of action)

 

Will look at fuel pump setup this weekend and keep u posted. Looks like a Facit fuel pump and there are two!

 

Any info would be appreciated Thanks )

[SCOTTJ]

Below is picture of fuel pumps... there are two pumps... The primary Facet pump takes the standard feed from the Elise fuel tank and pumps fuel to black swirl pot. The output of the swirl pot goes to the secondary canister style fuel pump (Dr.H very much like picture of Bosh unit you posted earlier) you can see with the red positive & negitive connectors on the top and the fuel out this then goes through the fuel filter and then onto the fuel pressure regulator (Red anodised). Not as neet as yours but hopefully adiquate once i sort the sub standard wiring.

 

I will meter the standard fuel pump wires to see if they are connected (Any resistance to -ve / +ve), if not i assume the unit has been removed or it's interals removed so the Facit can pull fuel from the tank without implellers getting in way?

 

The facit is located extreemly low, the top inline with to top of the fuel tank!

 

 

[MilesH]

MIles it is a OMEX 710 ECU!!! (Accelerator cable froze in blue Elise n i broke bracket under dash, so spent all morning with heater under car defrosting that!!! Two Elises and both were out of action)

 

Will look at fuel pump setup this weekend and keep u posted. Looks like a Facit fuel pump and there are two!

 

Any info would be appreciated Thanks )

 

If you want to find out about the wiring give Ollie a call at Phoenix Motorsport as it is one of their conversion, they are a friendly bunch and will more than likely help out.

 

Did you buy it off a chap called Andy? Or he may have been the previous owner?

[SCOTTJ]

Thank you Miles, I will do that. I've contacted Andy at OMEX he's given me instructions how to download calabration and said he will have a look at the calabration see if it is setup to control reverse solinoid, also said will forward pinouts etc, sounds very helpful chap!

 

I will definalty give Phoenix Motorsport a ring see if i can get some history on the build and wiring, Gearbox & Head gasket have been apart so not sure what otherwork it has had. Does standard K20? need forged internals for Supercharger?

 

I bought from a guy called Steve, I think he's drove it more than did any work, previous to that Mark in 2009, he only kept it for 5-6 months so not much in the way of history!

 

Numbnutz, it looks as though the ECU can control the reverse solinoid! Excellent news, want that 6 speed 4th-5th change as smooth as poss! One of my gripes was the ease in which i kept playing the gearbox to find 5th. Cheers!

[MilesH]

Good to hear OMEX are helping you out. My previous Honda elise ran an OMEX (installed by Phoenix Motorsport) and Richard and Andy at OMEX were always very helpful.

 

I thought I recognised the car, not many Honda Elise/Exige's around, but that car was an elise that had been redone with S1 Exige clams, a honda s/c conversion with an OMEX and sprayed black with the yellow strips. Whereas reading your post again you say yours is an original motorsport elise that came out of the factory with the clams on so likely not the same car

 

There is no need to upgrade the engine internals when fitting an S/C and very few get this done. There is current debate that you need uprated internals to run a charge cooler but there are plenty out there that are running a CC with a standard engine without problems.

 

Numbnutz, it looks as though the ECU can control the reverse solinoid! Excellent news, want that 6 speed 4th-5th change as smooth as poss! One of my gripes was the ease in which i kept playing the gearbox to find 5th. Cheers!

 

If you've got a short shift fitted this can sometimes cause issues with the closeness in selecting gears. I removed mine when I had my conversion done as it felt better with the standard throw and reduced the likelihood of missing gears.

[Numbnutz]

Scott, not sure what gear linkage you have, but if you are using standard gear cables - witch plastic ends, then nylatron bushes (g box end) make a huge difference. A bit of a pain to fit - but have a look - and I'll drop you a ebay link if you have.

 

Leigh, that looks spot on to me, as a lifter circuit goes. Is this the one you are renewing, or are you changing it?

 

Scott - Re: your pic, the Swirl pot is marked ok - maybe you have 2 fuel pumps - I can't really tell from the pics.

Maybe a flow diagram like Leigh would be clearer.

[SCOTTJ]

I didn't get much time on car this weekend with breaking other car!!! I did manage to extract the calabration/map from the ECU and i've emailed to OMEX. Homefully they can let me know if there is an output for gear change and fuel.

 

The colour codes on OMEX ECU connector do not seem to match there colour codes on their website (

 

If you could send me link to gear change end bits as it might be worth investigating in this bad weather!

 

Wiring loom is totally stripped out now so i can work on soldering and heat srinking the wires that are wrapped in tape! Just hope i can get it going again (

[Numbnutz]

Scott, I used this (Linky). Search for Elise Nylatron bush (user 1263e if the link dies)

 

I only used the 2 cable end bushes. Just check that you have normal cables with the dodgy plastice ends that have lots of holes in the bush. (Look at the cable ends near 25/26 in the pic here). Best I can do for now. There is a flimsy plastic insert that you replace with the nylatron bush, and some grease etc - you may need to file the linkage it attaches to, so you get a nice firm, but moveable fit)

 

If you cable ends look nothing like this - you'll need to do something else!

 

If you are bored - take a pic of your gear cables to gear linkage, and post it up!

[SCOTTJ]

They look the business! Yes they are pastic ended with holes in plastic. I may well invest in them!!!

 

Great news last night with guidance from OMEX got the Fuel pump priming using output from ECU.... Sounds so much more professional.... Car sounded so crappy with pump constantly running reaching full pressure and note of fuel pump changing and struggling!!!!

 

More great news.... got the Reverse Detent working in a fassion. THis again is controlled by ECU. I just need to change the kPa pressure range that disables the solinoid! On tickover ECU reads around 45kpa, and default range for Alt output is 0-30kPa!!!!

 

It's all just cables over engine bay at the mo... So tonight once all working going to strip loom off and re-sollder all joins and wrap into existing loom!!!

 

Thanks guys for your help, will post setup of 2* fuel pumps see what you think once wiring around ECU complete.....