Exige Motorsport S1 Honda With Jackson Supercharger - Engine Fuel Pump

[Numbnutz]

Scott, if you are soldering the loom changes, you should seriously consider glue filled heat shrink/wrap (Maplins do it and its only £2 more than normal), stagger the connections a little (so you don't get a big stiff lump), and then tape them up well, and reasonably tight/waterproof with a good insulating tape etc. Normal soldering practice applies, use decent wiring solder, ensure clean dry joints/wire, don't move wires whilst setting, etc.

 

Not sure how good you are at soldering and such, so appologies if I'm teaching your granny to suck eggs ...

[Middo]

Did you buy that car of a DJ from Blackpool? He did the conversion himself, I supplied the base map for the engine as I was the only one at the time to run an OMEX with the JRSC.

 

Built by username redhairsucks

 

http://www.exiges.co...true#Post113505

 

http://www.exiges.co...r=118879&page=1

 

Not sure its the same car just a hunch

[SCOTTJ]

No guy called Steve, i will drop this guy a post as sounds very farmiluar setup! Thanks for that, first history I have!

 

Been working away... Got lots of develiverys including heat shrink with Adhesive. Have stripped loom off engine so ready to rework...

 

 

[Middo]

Scott

 

you can download the sodtware for your ECU for free, all you need is a serial cable then.

 

http://www.omextechnology.co.uk/page8.html

 

If you wire it up properly you can retain a standard rover MFRU box and ditch the 4 relay set up you have. In all honesty if you are going to all the hasstle of a rewire, I would ditch the omex. You can get good money for the 710 ECU and swap it for a hondata K100 (or Kpro if you like to fiddle). Your car will run much better.

 

There have been a few that have done this and never looked back.

[Middo]

Just found this, new version of the Kpro at a good price, you will need a boggo ECU too.

 

K100 just over £300 now

[SCOTTJ]

Middo,

 

I've got the OMEX MAP 3000 software and tweeked the outputs for gear selector and fuel pump all was working great! My plan now is to get the wiring done and then take it to http://www.northamptonmotorsport.com they specialise in OMEX tuning and Andy at OMEX says the are good!

 

Still concerned trigger point for VTEC is 3000rpm. Seems extreemly low... Think i will stick with OMEX for now see what rolling road figures are first...

 

Cheers

[Middo]

Omex will make the numbers, no doubt about it. Its cold start/part throttle and cam control where the hondata excels. For a track car thats balls out the omex will be fine.

 

Northampton motorsport have a good rep btw. TDi north in warrington have had good results too with the omex in an elise.

[MilesH]

Did you buy that car of a DJ from Blackpool? He did the conversion himself, I supplied the base map for the engine as I was the only one at the time to run an OMEX with the JRSC.

 

Built by username redhairsucks

 

http://www.exiges.co...true#Post113505

 

http://www.exiges.co...r=118879&page=1

 

Not sure its the same car just a hunch

 

That's the car I thought it was

[SCOTTJ]

It might well be, wish i could see the pictures!!! I sent him a text and a post but no reply as yet! Spec. seems very simular, guy i bought it off had hardly used it in the 2-3 years he had it but then again he wasn't really built for an Elise with cobra bucket seats!!

 

Finished wiring OMEX last night, all +ve's and -ve's commons for sensors were twisted together and black taped!!! All now soldered and adhsive heat srink on joints! Also used wire protector hose so should protect the joints!!!

 

Next job is to use the spare two relays in the 4 relay unit that don't seem to be used to control the fuel pump and rewire the idle stepper motor. Currenty the stepper motor is powered constantly even when ignition is off. I put amp meter in series with battery and with idle stepper plugged into loom the car draws 1400ma and with it unplugged around 750ma!!! No wonder battery goes flat after couple of days!!

 

Still don't understand why 4 separate relays rather than elise MFRU and two of them the feed to relay coils go nowhere! I assume once they got the car running they though that was it!!

[Numbnutz]

Hi Scott,

 

I'm not sure if you have seen this, check out the Hondata website for useful wiring and stuff. Yeah, I know you have an Omex, but there is some good stuff on here, so just blank out the ecu connections etc.

 

For example, this diag shows some basic relay wiring. You should have a main relay that is powered on at ignition time, and this feeds power to the other relays that are controlled by the ecu. Note that Honda/Hondata ecu's drop the line to ground to activate a relay/device. Have a look at this

 

(Link http://www.hondata.com/images/k20awiring.gif)

 

Also have a browse around here too

 

http://www.hondata.com/techk20wiring.html

 

http://www.hondata.com/techk20ground.html Grounding the injectors correctly.

[SCOTTJ]

That's excellent stuff thank you! I've now realised the heater circuit for the O2 sensor is not powered!!

 

I'm not sure if this will have any detremental effect to performance but i'm sure it wont help cold starts and emmissions? I intend to wire this to one of the 4 relays that isn't being used but does this need to be on constantly or just until normal pperating temperature is reached? There is a spare output on OMEX that i could use to possibly control this.

 

Cheers and thanks for the diagrams, much better than CD i got off internet for £2.49!!

[Numbnutz]

One point of note for anyone looking at that diag for ECU pins - it is for the PRB (Usa) ecu and not the PRA (Euro) Ecu. Hardly any differences, apart from the o2 pins.

 

 

On the hondata, the o2 relay is controlled by the ecu, and comes on to get to temp and then cycles on and off, I guess turning it on and leaving it on will significantly decrease its lifespan. You need the pin outs for your ecu to see which pin controls o2.

 

I don't actually run my WB lamba at present (remember we only need pre-cat/primary, not post cat/secondary), and some tuners turn o2 off anyway, as they set the fuelling during mapping. The idea being, if you add cams/filters/exhausts you get it remapped. The OEM honda map just runs rich to compensate for ppl swapping bits.

 

If you get stuck anywhere, give me a shout/message and I'll see if I can help! I did all my wiring and I've helped a few others problem solving etc.

[SCOTTJ]

Excellent thank you very much, I just want to get it on the road for when the weather improves. Beginning to need a fix!!!