Newbie question

[Lithopsian]

Did the pins look dry?

You've probably put it all back together now, but some enterprising soul at SELOC found an OLED replacement for the tired old Stack LCD.  Available in a wide range of colours if dull orange isn't to your taste.

[Andy wright]

One pin in particular looked very dry but most of them didn’t look great. A replacement LCD panel would have been nice an is still an option if mine doesn’t behave itself. However, I am lusting after an AIM MX2E dash, complete with reversing camera . Lot of money but a real step improvement on the o.e dash and has all the track data loaded .

 

[Oakman]

The period correct reversing camera I got for my Elan 

Not sure if Colin would approve ……

[Andy wright]

Brilliant . 

[Andy wright]

Almost unbounded joy. MOT dat today. Passed. No advisories ( though I would  have been a bit miffed if there were any ). And does my LCD display work? Like it was brand new.And does my Rev counter work? Does it knickers . It worked for about 20sec and then the drive to the needle failed. I thought it might as I was far from convinced about my ‘ repair ‘ Option 1 is to replace the Rev counter stepper motor with a second hand one. Option two is to break out the Barclaycard and get the MX2E dash .

 I ought to start a poll. 

[mattb130]

You know what the answer to the poll is going to be, so may as well just break out the Barclaycard now. 

[Andy wright]

Off to the Aim shop in Stoke tomorrow. Just to look you understand . 

[Dave-hp]

5 hours ago, Andy wright said:

Almost unbounded joy. MOT dat today. Passed. No advisories ( though I would  have been a bit miffed if there were any ). And does my LCD display work? Like it was brand new.And does my Rev counter work? Does it knickers . It worked for about 20sec and then the drive to the needle failed. I thought it might as I was far from convinced about my ‘ repair ‘ Option 1 is to replace the Rev counter stepper motor with a second hand one. Option two is to break out the Barclaycard and get the MX2E dash .

 I ought to start a poll. 

Get the motor!

[Andy wright]

1 all so far .

 

[Andy wright]

Well, I went to the Aim shop. Then I came home. There might have been an MX2E dash and reversing camera that somehow came home with me. Snag number one is the words of caution that come wit( the MX2E manual ( in three places) all saying that the dash fits all Toyota cars except ones without an airbag and with the white dial instruments . I have a white dial dash and no  airbag .So the binnacle that comes with the MX2E will not fit my car . Neither do the supplied switches and the adaptor harness expresses says it’s for the 2004-7/cars with an airbag ….. only. So absolutely no problem. Bound to fit  and work without a hitch . 
Job number 1. Cross reference the non airbag and airbag wiring diagrams for the dash connector. Surprisingly the two are remarkably similar so further cross referencing with the Aim connector pinout gave me confidence that , electrically , there was a fighting chance of it working. Job number 2 was to route the 3m cable from the rear of the car to the instrument binnacle for the reversing camera. Apart from nearside wheel and wheel arch liner removal, followed by seats, rear speakers, harness bar , tunnel  cover, rear trim panel , dash top and a few other items , job was a piece of cake . Only took me 5 hours. 
Job number 3 was to mount the dash into the cowl and find a place for the switches. This took a while and was the hardest bit. The MX2E is designed to fit the airbag dash cowl which is significantly different from the earlier type , non airbag dash . Photos to follow.,This one was a fight .

[Lithopsian]

Rather you than me!  I hate having to fettle bits.  Must be nice once you get it in though.

[DeanB]

Looking forward to the photos

[Andy wright]

Morning. Job now complete. To configure shift lights and to get the indicator box to work, Racestudio3 software and a  laptop are required. The indicator lights were quite hard to see as they are very close to the top of the display, but fortunately the MX2E has 4 user defined dialogue display boxes that can be enabled and populated with ecu/ expansion channel/ track / display / other data , so I populated two of them with the indicator data . The shift lights are going to be a bit more tricky. I have configured them but will have to wait until I drive the car to see how visible they are. However, I do have two more spare display boxes so I could make them indicate rpm change points . We will see. Overall, the installation was more time consuming than difficult. I wanted to keep the supplied switches which are critical for setting up, and they needed to be in the upper cowl. Locating them in the lower shroud would have been much easier but then installing the lower cover whilst the switches are connected to the back of the dash in the upper cowl would have been a real pain. I did get some miniature push button switches and miniature  two pin connectors to enable the lower shroud to be used, but ended up extensively modifying the supplied switch housings and fitting them in the cowl. My cowl is cracked and not great , so I was prepared to experiment as I found out a second hand replacement on eBay just in case I made a complete cock of the job. Fortunately I did not need to hit the ‘ buy it now’ button as my system works, though not massively pretty . I may well still buy said cowl, modify it more to make the shift lights more visible , relocate the buttons and re do that bit of the job. 

[Andy wright]

Next job. Exhaust upgrade I have a 2ubular manifold,msports cat and silencer. And today was the day to fit it.. Correction, today  was the day that I spent 5 hours getting the old system off. The principle is straight forward. Jack up the car and support securely. Remove nearside rear wheel and arch liner. Remove upper and lower manifold heat shields. Remove the manifold to CAT clamp bolts. Disconnect and remove the wiring to both  the pre and post cat lambda sensors. Support the exhaust , remove the silencer support braces and lower the silencer and CAT to the ground. Then remove the five nuts securing the manifold to the head and remove the manifold.

Just about every nut and bolt put up a fight, and in the case of the heat shields and manifold to cat bolts, they didn’t get dropped to the floor until round ten. Engine mount needed to come out ( and yes, the through bolt was seized in the mounting )

But in the end, they didn’t get exhaust was on the floor( and it’s a heavy piece of kit )

 Then I thought I would check out what was underneath so removed the heat shield. Hmm. Interesting ( slight aside. I bough the car and year ago with a list of faults as long as your arm and light damage which resulted in its CAT N status in 2022. I knew that the rear clam had been repaired but could see no other damage .:Now I have found it in the form of the nearside rear hanger mount for the silencer. It’s a bracket that is welded onto the subframe, and in my case had inherited an S bend that it really didn’t need. It took a couple of hours to properly straighten out said bracket so that it properly lines up again.) But now everything is out of the way, I think I will insert some bling in the form of gold coloured self adhesive heat shield to go on the fibreglass behind the aluminium heat shield .Pictures to follow, but here is one of the manifold complete with ‘Funk motorsport ‘ titanium wrap and I have a matching jacket for the CAT 

[Lithopsian]

Different hangers on the S1, but are you sure the bracket is supposed to be welded on?