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Lithopsian last won the day on February 15

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About Lithopsian

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    Elise S1

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  1. Lithopsian

    1997 S1 Elise Bonnet Hinge replacement

    I think its an over-played problem, but it certainly gets your heart rate up when you pull the handle and it doesn't open. Unless you've got it really badly aligned and then forced it closed when it didn't want to go, it can be freed by pushing the bonnet in one direction or another so the catch is more central and it will pop open. Take care that the catch is aligned with the hole when you're adjusting and you'll be fine.
  2. Lithopsian

    1997 S1 Elise Bonnet Hinge replacement

    I've become an expert at how to open the catch when it isn't quite aligned right :) I just can't leave the bonnet wonky!
  3. The Elise brake light switch is from a Ford, early Fiesta I think but probably others too. I'm pretty sure the Exige uses the same switch.
  4. Lithopsian

    1997 S1 Elise Bonnet Hinge replacement

    Looks like new!
  5. Lithopsian

    1997 S1 Elise Bonnet Hinge replacement

    You can certainly buy the bits for the hinge mechanism, but you probably don't want to or need to. Comes in several pieces. For example, the "hinge rotor", the big piece that bolts to the bonnet itself, is 130 quid from Elise Shop. The bracket, the piece that should be rivetted to the clam, is much more reasonable. The "hinge" is simply a bolt that runs through the bracket and a tunnel at the end of the rotor. So salvage what you have, clean it, grease it, maybe replace the bolt (and washers and nuts) with something that won't get all rusted up, and stick it back to the clam. Replace the bracket if it is badly corroded. Probably bolt it unless you're good with rivets, sikaflex is useful with rivets to stop them breaking again. Fiddly with the clam on.
  6. Lithopsian

    New Member, coolant loss

    The pipework has two holes, so they had to put something in them both. The blue one is not used for anything on the S2, although I believe it is an entirely functional sensor.
  7. Lithopsian

    New member on a rescue mission

    Cambelt is doable by a competent DIY-er, but like many Elise jobs you'll need a few special tools, very long flexible arms, and a liking for swearing at seized bolts. Remember the car is nearly 20 years old, so everything steel is going to be thoroughly corroded. Take your time and it shouldn't be a problem. Trouble starts when you start shearing off bolts or stripping threads in the engine block. Tell you what, if you can get the wheel arch liner off without a dremel, then you should be good to go!
  8. Lithopsian

    bulb out on rear clam brake light

    One bulb out of four not working is OK for MOT. Even two is OK. Three is a fail. By bizarre MOT rules, four is a pass because there is no way for the tester to be sure that it is actually a connected brake light. Best to have all four so you're not pushing your luck and winding up the tester. The 06 Exige uses the same centre brake light as the Elise S1, four 5W capless in holders that twist into the lamp from the rear. Some later models went to LED units, red LEDs with a clear lens. In the bootbox S1, you just reach in to the boot and twist out the bulb holder you want, never tried it on an Exige. LED replacements in the standard holder will not have the same beam pattern. At the very least, you'll want to replace all four to avoid them looking odd. Good ones will be OK, poor ones may not project well from the reflector. Also, white LEDs don't work well behind red lenses, red LEDs do better. And not legal, of course Not sure why everyone's bulbs are blowing, they should last tens of thousands of miles unless you sit on the brakes at traffic lights.
  9. Lithopsian

    New Member, coolant loss

    S2 now? Well that simplifies things. See what happens with the new sensor, then I don't know whether it is better to hope for a stuck thermostat or not because it is tricky to get at.
  10. Lithopsian

    New Member, coolant loss

    You can suspect a stuck thermostat from extended warmup (typically only a couple of miles to get the coolant up to temperature), poor heater output, and most reliably from the radiator getting warm very quickly after the engine is started. Or dive in and feel the hoses for more precise results. A faulty sender can obviously be diagnosed by comparing it with a more reliable thermometer, although there could be electrical issues also causing the Stack to read wrongly. You can also compare it with the brown sensor, which ought to be working well now. The ECU will switch on the cooling fan when the brown sensor indicates around 102C. The blue sensor ought to read within a couple of degrees of 102C when that happens. Test the fan first by unplugging the brown sensor plug so you don't accidentally overheat your engine trying to force the fan to run. The Stack reading is affected by poor earth connections between the engine and battery, so it may read low and may increase when you switch on high-power electrical items at the front of the car. An extra 1C from turning on the interior fan is common, but more than 2C and you definitely want to look at your electrics.
  11. Lithopsian

    Indicator condensation help please

    Oops, didn't notice you'd put holes in it. Probably not a good idea. They might help dry it out, but unless you're very lucky they'll help it get wet again even more quickly.
  12. Lithopsian

    Indicator condensation help please

    Occasional condensation is quite common, but regular and bad is a problem. Detach it from the car, dunk in a bucket of water, and look for bubbles. It is almost certainly not sealed well enough and lets water in. The water then never gets out because of the very limited airflow into the "sealed" fitting and just moves about, condensing on the lens and the light itself when the temperature changes. If you want to try a quick fix, you can just take out the bulb holder and thoroughly dry out the lens. Use a gentle heat on the outside of the lens or just stand it facing the sun. Maybe it will stay dry for long enough to be worth it not going for the more complete fix.
  13. Lithopsian

    Duraline on mmc disk backs?

    Duraline? Duralac?
  14. Lithopsian

    Elise S1 Wiper R Clip Size...

    I measured my R-clip at 20mm total length. Without taking it out, the pin appears to be 5mm diameter, which would be about right for that length clip.
  15. Lithopsian

    Elise S1 Wiper R Clip Size...

    Look under the door hinge. Or if you're really unlucky it stuck on the wheel arch liner above the mudflap. If you had the bonnet open, it could be anywhere! You can measure the size of the recess in the bottom of the wiper blade. Just the length should get you the right clip. They're pretty tiny, only a couple of cm. Or measure the pin hole diameter if you have the tools to get it accurately. Or measure the pin diameter, 6mm or so would take a 2cm clip, 8mm a 2.5cm clip, and so on. If you're still stuck, I can go an measure mine, but it probably won't tell you much more.

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