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Lithopsian

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Lithopsian last won the day on February 15

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About Lithopsian

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    Elise S1

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  1. Look closer and it says "Model 2001 Year Onwards", but that was printed by Lotus before there was any Toyota version. I can see the confusion, I have this version and I know it doesn't address the Toyota engined cars, but I don't see that the eBay listing is misleading. Grammatically shocking and probably infringing copyright, though.
  2. S1 or S2? In the footwell, might be best to just run direct to the fusebox/battery. Or skip the fusebox and fuse it inline. I'm guessing you need to much current to piggy-back on an existing feed. Access from the rear to the front is usually through the centre tunnel, but you do have a fat unfused 12V supply at the starter solenoid. Or did you want something from the ignition? Earthing in the rear can be done to the engine block, gearbox, or direct to the chassis. Good opportunity to clean up the earth strap.
  3. Well a rivnut would explain the spinning. Pretty sure the S1 is tapped directly into the subframe, but maybe they changed it on the S2. A loose rivnut can be a pain to get off, but if you can get something behind to jam it then it is possible. Even pulling on it to get a bit of friction can work in marginal cases, or jamming a screwdriver under the washer or bolt head (possibly protect the diffuser surface). It can get pretty corroded so anything you can do to get some decent releasing fluid into it will help. WD40 isn't the best. I like Plusgas. Spraying from underneath, through the diffuser, won't be the most effective. If you can get anything onto the top of the rivnut, it would be a big help, then leave it for a few hours at least. Rivnuts can at least be replaced if you can get the old one off, and you'll want to replace it so you don't have the same problem next time. It can be bodged up with a bolt and some nuts, but best to use the right tool.
  4. Rear undertray? The diffuser? Those bolts thread directly into the subframe (no axle on an Elise). Should only be spinning if they are stripped, which you really don't want. Not sure what is holding them in if they're stripped. Might just pull out with a little effort. You'll probably need to retap, probably to a larger M10 bolt. Or a helicoil might be the best solution. If you absolutely can't get the bolt out with a bit of pulling, might have to dremel the head off, get the diffuser out of the way, and see what is going on. I wonder if someone has already been in there and bodged it, something like a (not very well) welded nut on there. Or the "middle" undertray, the really big one? These bolts go into the wishbone brackets, but the principle is the same.
  5. I don't find them in a problem in an S1 at standard ride height. Speed bumps (on public roads) should be a maximum of 100mm hight, which should be enough for almost any car, but it doesn't take much dip in the carriageway or bounce in the suspension to add another couple of cm to that. Coming down off the table types could also be an issue if you have a lower diffuser or are just too enthusiastic.
  6. The fire ring is the metal ring on the head gasket that creates a seal around each cylinder. If that seal fails then combustion gases will be pumped into the coolant when the engine is running, and coolant may leak into the cylinders. The gases in the coolant can be detected with a sniffer, which is one way to diagnose HGF. Eventually, soot will start to build up in the coolant and you'll see those black specs or some scum. They can also just be bits of corrosion or from an old HGF. Coolant reading low is obviously something to look at. Could be the thermostat. It might work for a while, then stick. That's assuming the temperature really is too low. You can get a handle on that by seeing how hot the coolant is when the dash says 60C. There are separate temperature senders for the ECU and the dash. The dash one (blue) is less reliable because it is earthed to the engine, but if one is just getting old then the other probably is too. The ECU one controls the radiator fan. You can test the fan manually by unplugging the brown one (with the engine running), luckily the one you can reach. So long as the fan works, you could try running until the fan comes on and see what the dash reads. It is supposed to come on at about 102C. If the brown sender is unreliable then the fan might not come on until the engine is hotter. Need to find out if you're really running at 60C or just the dash saying that. If you've had the fan come on, do you remember what the dash was reading? It wouldn't come on at an actual 60C unless something very strange was happening. A 2-3C rise when the lights come on is common, but does indicate that your earth straps probably need cleaning up. With very good connections on both earth straps you'll see less than 1C change when the lights come on, and about the same with the interior fan on full.
  7. Head gaskets can fail in different ways. Between the oil and water ways, you get mayo either in the header tank or on the dipstick and under the oil filler cap (just the places you can see). Mayo in the header is a guaranteed HGF because there's nowhere else for the oil to come from (unless you have an oil cooler). Small amounts of mayo in the oil may be simply expected water that hasn't been boiled off, buts lots of it means HGF. Or the fire ring can fail between water and combustion, which means you get gas in the coolant and very high pressure even when it isn't particularly hot, and some white smoke on startup with a possible misfire as coolant is blown out of the cylinders. A fire ring break is the one that can be sniffed, or you might spot sooty deposits in the header tank. If the coolant starts off with no pressure, then is later under pressure when cold, then something is being pumped into the circuit; combustion gases is the first suspect. If you leave the car for a while, you might get some coolant leaking back the other way that you can spot when you start the engine, but the fire ring might only pass gas when the engine is running. Sometimes gaskets aren't fitted quite perfectly and get nicked or trapped. I've had one that failed immediately, luckily it pissed coolant out on the floor so it was easy to spot. Hopefully it isn't something more difficult like a porous head. You might want to check the temperature senders themselves. As they age, the resistance goes up and the temperature reading goes down. A poor earth can cause low readings that jump up when loads like the headlights or fan come on. A stuck or passing thermostat means it will take an age to come up to temperature, possibly never getting there if you are moving. Try leaving it idling, or fast idling, for 10-20 minutes and the temperature should come up even if the thermostat is open. You can also check if the radiator is warm soon after startup when the temperature is still very low.
  8. I don't seem to be able to reply on this topic, only vote. The voting is very one-sided, but I suspect people may have more to say than just "don't like it". I think the lights look quite good, but I'd be interested to know more about the format, which segments do what, whether the fog and reverse lights are incorporated, etc.
  9. Go on then ... M6x1.0x how long?
  10. The AD08RS is a slightly tweaked design to meet new regulations on noise, fuel consumption, and wet performance. So basically the same tyre, but slightly less sticky. The label shows 3-5 dB quieter and one notch better for rolling resistance. Wet performance is still the same at B. Whether there's enough difference to notice on the road is anybody's guess. I think the AD07 is being phased out, and not replaced, for the same reason. Probably only old stock now.
  11. 12V to the coil should come from the main relay, in the MFRU. Then the ECU gives it a path to earth. So the MFRU is the big suspect. The coil comes from big plug pin 8, brown and pink wire. Note that there are two pins with brown and pink wires, and they're connected to each other internally. If there is no power there, then look for the relay input on pin 6, brown wire, which comes from the maxi fuse.
  12. I think its an over-played problem, but it certainly gets your heart rate up when you pull the handle and it doesn't open. Unless you've got it really badly aligned and then forced it closed when it didn't want to go, it can be freed by pushing the bonnet in one direction or another so the catch is more central and it will pop open. Take care that the catch is aligned with the hole when you're adjusting and you'll be fine.
  13. I've become an expert at how to open the catch when it isn't quite aligned right :) I just can't leave the bonnet wonky!
  14. The Elise brake light switch is from a Ford, early Fiesta I think but probably others too. I'm pretty sure the Exige uses the same switch.
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