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Lithopsian last won the day on February 15 2019

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About Lithopsian

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    Stockport

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  • Car Type
    Elise S1

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  1. I think the trap is for fuel vapour, but either way it traps liquid of some sort to stop it damaging the sensor in the ECU. Just is a standard vacuum hose. A pretty skinny one. Smaller than 3/16" ID. 1/8" or 3mm perhaps, see what you think if you have yours off already. Get a good quality one, you don't want it collapsing.
  2. Autoglass are often recommended, they are all over. Your experience may vary depending on just which branch you get. Quiz them a little and try to get someone who has fitted to an Elise before. An experienced fitter (or more likely two) will be able to fit the screen without completely removing the clam. Unless the bolts are seized, they can easily be loosened and the clam lifted slightly at the front edge. Make sure the mirror is fitted in the right place (ie. not the middle!) and everything else is pretty standard. Paying one person to remove the clam and another to fit the screen could get pretty expensive if you're paying yourself, but might help your peace of mind if you have a trusted local mechanic. Or you can remove the clam yourself. It isn't hard on an S1, just a bit time-consuming. Well worth making sure all the bolts are free and greased, even replaced if necessary. The fusebox rawlnuts are almost certainly rusted beyond use.
  3. I'll assume you're familiar with all the lift points. Those are the best places to support the chassis, although really anywhere along the main frame of the chassis can be used in a pinch, and even certain parts of the suspension. The front lift points are at the corners of the main frame. You can support on wood, bricks, breeze blocks, anything you have to hand really. Something with a little "give" is good, and not too slippy. A box of paper is ideal, or a book on top of your stack of wood, or a mouse mat. It only has to be 2-3" square, but you can go bigger if you want. Just be careful to support on the aluminium and not the fibreglass, so square is actually better than round The centre lift points with the stickers are mainly for jacking since they more or less balance the whole car. Putting a stand under there risks having the car tip off. The rear of the chassis frame goes under the shear panel so you have to be a little careful where you support it there. The panel lies against the chassis at its rear edge and that's where you have to support the car. The outer corners are recommended for stability. Examine the area carefully so you're sure where the chassis frame is, and don't support on the bolts. These aren't actually very far behind the centre of gravity of the car so be careful if you intend removing any weight from the front or pushing down on the back. Even further back, you can support on the steel subframe. These lift points are closer together than the shear panel points, but further back The points aren't marked but they are where the two big diffuser bolts go, so very easy to spot. Use anything you want under here, nothing to damage, although it isn't completely flat. A regular old axle stand can even be used.. Some people have made supports that can be used with the diffuser on, since there is an area that rests flat against the subframe. Just have to avoid the bolt since the threads aren't strong enough to hold up the car. The lift points on the Elise mean that you have to go pretty high to get an axle stand under even at its lowest height. If you want to go really high, do it in stages so you don't tip the chassis at too much of an angle which might cause it to slip off your supports or even off the jack. Lastly, make very very sure that your trolley jack can roll freely. There is no room for the jack to slip on the jacking point, it will go straight through your sill.
  4. The nuts should be bonded to the sill, but they can come loose. If it just spins, there's a good chance it is no longer bonded. If you remove the front speaker trim panel, there is access to the sill and you should be able to retrieve anything that drops inside. Once you're there, you should be able to sikaflex some stainless bighead nuts so that you never have to go in there again. I think this is the same on all the S2 models, not sure which one you have.
  5. Replacing the balljoints is certainly DIY-able. The suspension can be dismantled with a couple of spanners, a socket or two, and probably a lot of swearing given the amount of rust. To separate the balljoints you'll probably want to get a special tool. There are generic forks (EuroCarParts) or you can get ones specific to the Elise (Eliseparts) which are more convenient. You might want to check if the balljoints need replacing first. You can check for movement in the joint, but it can be hard to judge. Eventually the joints will start to knock over small bumps, and some time after that will fail. If the balljoints are worn, the bushes probably also need looking at. They'll be past their best at 50,000 miles and probably in serious need of replacement at 100,000.
  6. With the arch liner out,you should be able to stick your head in and see the bolt.
  7. Inside the cabin, behind the seats, above the window, there are two bolts. Remove those. Might be a trim panel fitted over these? There are another two bolts about halfway down the buttresses. They can be accessed from the wheel arch, or blind by sticking your arm inside the engine bay. Obviously, careful not to drop the screws because then you'll have to dismantle more of the car. Less obvious, don't drop the plastic washers! There is a weather seal on the front edge which needs to come off. It's self-adhesive so you might need to replace it with fresh if it won't stick back on. I think the cant rail brackets also have to come off. None of that should need the clam off. That might be if someone was looking to replace the window, since there aren't many other reasons to want the shroud off.
  8. You're probably correct. My experience with S2s is extremely limited.
  9. It will be essentially the same as the S2. There might be a couple of little gotchas though. Resistor pack on the S2 can be done with the clam on, with difficulty, but I've been told that access is completely blocked on the S3.
  10. Sounds like the immobiliser is active, but the alarm is off, and you are failing to deactivate the immobiliser. Try the touch key (tell me you have the touch key!) and if that works then re-sync your fobs to it. Failing all that, you can bypass the immobiliser, at least temporarily.
  11. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the bobbins in the wishbone pickups. These are essential to prevent corrosion of the chassis. When new, they were nicely coated and isolated from the chassis with glue to prevent galvanic corrosion. Many of them have lost their coating now and started to rust, and the small separation from the chassis can mean galvanic corrosion. If your bobbins are not black and clean, this is a good time to de-rust and paint them. Ideally take them out, possibly even replace them with new. As for the shim washers, stainless ones will obviously stay shiny for longer, but zinc coated washers give better protection against galvanic corrosion that can occur when you get damp crud in there connecting the chassis to the washers, at least until the zinc is gone. I think too many people think stainless is the answer to all their corrosion problems, but in some cases it will make things worse. I'd rather replace the washers every 10 years than have the aluminium pickup points perforate. Standard 38mm or 40mm penny washers are fine for the front arm, but best to stick with the small washers on the rear if you have the OEM-type rubber bushes. Larger washers will transfer load the the chassis instead of letting the bush deform, and the chassis is potentially not strong enough to take this under extreme conditions. That's annoying since they are not a standard washer size and the real Lotus ones are expensive. On non-rubber bushes, penny washers should be fine on both arms. ACF-50 or corrosion block grease is an added protection, but only lasts a year or two, maybe less under harsh conditions. I don't apply it to general areas of the chassis as they don't need it and it just attracts dirt. Useful on anything steel, especially where there is steel near aluminium. If you do spray it on, wipe it down afterwards as thick layers will just make a sticky mess. The grease is handy for fixings, use it on everything that will be unfastened every few years. For stuff that is not going to be touched for another 15 years, a proper anti-sieze might be better.
  12. Just for info, that's a Chris Neil exhausr
  13. If they know what they're doing, small damaged areas will be virtually like new. It isn't some tiny sprayer just on the scratch. The method is basically the same as a regular respray but only a small area is actually taken back to primer and this is then blended in with the rest of the panel. With heatlamps and fast-drying paint (and power tools!), the whole thing can be done in a few hours. A lot of small scratches, chips, or scuffs can be fixed really quite well yourself, but it is time-consuming and results probably won't be as good until you've had a bit of practice. Small scuffs or marks that haven't penetrated all the way through the clearcoat can be polished or compounded out very easily, anything that hasn't gone right through the colour layer can also be done quite well. Chips though the colour can be difficult to match properly just by touching up, very difficult for metallic paints.
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