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Lithopsian last won the day on February 15 2019

Lithopsian had the most liked content!

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About Lithopsian

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    Stockport

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  • Car Type
    Elise S1

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  1. It will be essentially the same as the S2. There might be a couple of little gotchas though. Resistor pack on the S2 can be done with the clam on, with difficulty, but I've been told that access is completely blocked on the S3.
  2. Sounds like the immobiliser is active, but the alarm is off, and you are failing to deactivate the immobiliser. Try the touch key (tell me you have the touch key!) and if that works then re-sync your fobs to it. Failing all that, you can bypass the immobiliser, at least temporarily.
  3. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the bobbins in the wishbone pickups. These are essential to prevent corrosion of the chassis. When new, they were nicely coated and isolated from the chassis with glue to prevent galvanic corrosion. Many of them have lost their coating now and started to rust, and the small separation from the chassis can mean galvanic corrosion. If your bobbins are not black and clean, this is a good time to de-rust and paint them. Ideally take them out, possibly even replace them with new. As for the shim washers, stainless ones will obviously stay shiny for longer, but zinc coated washers give better protection against galvanic corrosion that can occur when you get damp crud in there connecting the chassis to the washers, at least until the zinc is gone. I think too many people think stainless is the answer to all their corrosion problems, but in some cases it will make things worse. I'd rather replace the washers every 10 years than have the aluminium pickup points perforate. Standard 38mm or 40mm penny washers are fine for the front arm, but best to stick with the small washers on the rear if you have the OEM-type rubber bushes. Larger washers will transfer load the the chassis instead of letting the bush deform, and the chassis is potentially not strong enough to take this under extreme conditions. That's annoying since they are not a standard washer size and the real Lotus ones are expensive. On non-rubber bushes, penny washers should be fine on both arms. ACF-50 or corrosion block grease is an added protection, but only lasts a year or two, maybe less under harsh conditions. I don't apply it to general areas of the chassis as they don't need it and it just attracts dirt. Useful on anything steel, especially where there is steel near aluminium. If you do spray it on, wipe it down afterwards as thick layers will just make a sticky mess. The grease is handy for fixings, use it on everything that will be unfastened every few years. For stuff that is not going to be touched for another 15 years, a proper anti-sieze might be better.
  4. Just for info, that's a Chris Neil exhausr
  5. If they know what they're doing, small damaged areas will be virtually like new. It isn't some tiny sprayer just on the scratch. The method is basically the same as a regular respray but only a small area is actually taken back to primer and this is then blended in with the rest of the panel. With heatlamps and fast-drying paint (and power tools!), the whole thing can be done in a few hours. A lot of small scratches, chips, or scuffs can be fixed really quite well yourself, but it is time-consuming and results probably won't be as good until you've had a bit of practice. Small scuffs or marks that haven't penetrated all the way through the clearcoat can be polished or compounded out very easily, anything that hasn't gone right through the colour layer can also be done quite well. Chips though the colour can be difficult to match properly just by touching up, very difficult for metallic paints.
  6. The subframe does rust, but its a hefty chunk of metal and I've never seen any structural issues from corrosion. Almost any other car on the road has worse problems with rust. On the other hand, the aluminium front suspension pickups always seemed needlessly delicate to me, so even a small amount of corrosion can lead to breakage.
  7. I thought the cigarette lighter was permanently live on the S2, so you can charge through that. Or did they change it again on the S3? It was live on early S1s, then went to ignition-only on later S1s.
  8. Scissor jacks are inherently unstable, or too stable depending how you look at it. When you raise one side of a car, the car tilts and that side moves slightly away from you. A trolley jack is designed to move when this happens (and also because the lifting arm of a trolley jack moves as it lifts) so that it stays directly under the jacking point, and the cup can tilt to stay flat against the lifting point. A scissor jack doesn't do this, so it either tilts over at an angle or slips on the jacking point. Neither is good. The effect is limited if you are barely lifting a wheel off the ground, and most scissor jacks are designed to fit securely into a socket or over a raised boss on a specific car so they don't slip, but you really should consider a scissor jack for emergencies only and really never on a car without a corresponding positive jacking point to lock into.
  9. Wrong side of the Pennines If you're shopping for a jack, make sure it will fit under the car. Even standard ride height is too low for many jacks, and I'd guess yours will have been lowered a bit.
  10. No. The front support points are accessible. The rear ones are not but a box under the bottom of the damper is OK for saving your life if the jack drops, although it is not an official jacking point. Might want to have a play with the trays anyway. You need to get them off for even the most basic tasks like changing the oil. Not hard, just a whole bunch of bolts to unscrew.
  11. Axle stands are fine, but the standard metal tops designed for an actual axle do not sit well (or safely!) on the Elise jacking points. You either need axle stands with a round top, which are all stupidly expensive so far as I can tell, or a pad on top to match the flat round jacking points. The front part of the chassis rail (B) is easy, but the rear points (C and D) are harder to get at and less stable. The centre of the chassis rail (A) is only for jacking one side at a time, not for axle stands or a lift. It is at the centre of gravity of the car and the whole car can tilt backwards and fall of, for example if you remove the front wheels. Axle stands do tend to be taller than necessary even on the lowest setting, handy if you want to drop the fuel tank but a nuisance just for taking one wheel off. For jacking, always use a trolley jack on the middle jacking point A, which will lift one side of the car safely. The other jacking points should be used in pairs for support or for lifting the whole front or rear (or both) at the same time. The chassis rails are smooth so you need a suitable top on the jack, preferably with a grippy rubber surface. The standard metal cup slips far too easily and it also bigger than ideal. The jacking area is very close to the fibreglass sill and it will crack if you try to jack on it. Make very sure that the jack wheels will roll before the jack slips on the aluminium or the label itself. There are horror pictures out there. For emergency backup while working on one corner at a time for short periods, paper boxes or similar are convenient and you don't even have to rest the car on them if your jack will hold fort a few hours. At the back, in a pinch, you can stick something under the bottom of the damper, but avoid the wishbones or balljoint which are likely to be damaged if they had to take the weight of the car. If you want the car up for more than a few hours, best to support it properly at the right jacking points because it isn't ideal for the jack or the car.
  12. I just noticed that nobody replied to this. Maybe you fixed the fog light tell-tale already? On late S1s, the fog module acts as a sort of latching relay so that the rear fog light automatically goes out and stays out once the headlamps are switched off. More of a pain than a help since the switch stays pressed in and the fog light can only be turned back on by pressing it twice. Early S1s didn't have a module at all, just came on and went off directly from the switch so long as the headlamps were also on. The telltale is on the switch itself. I thought all S2s had a switch pack and no fog module, but maybe some early S2s might still have had the module? Any module would be located right behind the switches, and I think you'd have found it. I think I can see the switch pack in your photos, small black box with loads of wiring from one side. The wiring to the instrument telltale is straight from the same wire that powers the foglamp itself, not much to go wrong. There shouldn't be any voltage on it unless the foglamp is on. Did you ever check if the foglamp was also permanently on? If not then it seems like a fault inside the instrument cluster rather than the switch or lamp wiring.
  13. The door mirrors sit on a ball inside the rubber gaitors. They should be free to move in any direction, up, down, rotate, anything you like. Usually they get a bit loose rather than too tight. There is some backlash, so they may bounce back a bit from a small nudge, but with a larger movement they should stay put. Any serious trouble getting them to move and there may be a problem. If the ball is completely solid in the socket, then you may be moving the "emergency" mechanism which allows the mirror to move, and ultimately fold flat, if it is hit rather than pull a chunk out of your door. Are both sides the same? Try rotating (to look at the sky or floor) rather than pushing and pulling. If it doesn't move that way then something isn't right.
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