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Lithopsian

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Lithopsian last won the day on February 15

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About Lithopsian

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    Junior

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    Male
  • Location
    Stockport

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  • Car Type
    Elise S1

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  1. Lithopsian

    K Series cooling issues

    The fire ring is the metal ring on the head gasket that creates a seal around each cylinder. If that seal fails then combustion gases will be pumped into the coolant when the engine is running, and coolant may leak into the cylinders. The gases in the coolant can be detected with a sniffer, which is one way to diagnose HGF. Eventually, soot will start to build up in the coolant and you'll see those black specs or some scum. They can also just be bits of corrosion or from an old HGF. Coolant reading low is obviously something to look at. Could be the thermostat. It might work for a while, then stick. That's assuming the temperature really is too low. You can get a handle on that by seeing how hot the coolant is when the dash says 60C. There are separate temperature senders for the ECU and the dash. The dash one (blue) is less reliable because it is earthed to the engine, but if one is just getting old then the other probably is too. The ECU one controls the radiator fan. You can test the fan manually by unplugging the brown one (with the engine running), luckily the one you can reach. So long as the fan works, you could try running until the fan comes on and see what the dash reads. It is supposed to come on at about 102C. If the brown sender is unreliable then the fan might not come on until the engine is hotter. Need to find out if you're really running at 60C or just the dash saying that. If you've had the fan come on, do you remember what the dash was reading? It wouldn't come on at an actual 60C unless something very strange was happening. A 2-3C rise when the lights come on is common, but does indicate that your earth straps probably need cleaning up. With very good connections on both earth straps you'll see less than 1C change when the lights come on, and about the same with the interior fan on full.
  2. Lithopsian

    K Series cooling issues

    Head gaskets can fail in different ways. Between the oil and water ways, you get mayo either in the header tank or on the dipstick and under the oil filler cap (just the places you can see). Mayo in the header is a guaranteed HGF because there's nowhere else for the oil to come from (unless you have an oil cooler). Small amounts of mayo in the oil may be simply expected water that hasn't been boiled off, buts lots of it means HGF. Or the fire ring can fail between water and combustion, which means you get gas in the coolant and very high pressure even when it isn't particularly hot, and some white smoke on startup with a possible misfire as coolant is blown out of the cylinders. A fire ring break is the one that can be sniffed, or you might spot sooty deposits in the header tank. If the coolant starts off with no pressure, then is later under pressure when cold, then something is being pumped into the circuit; combustion gases is the first suspect. If you leave the car for a while, you might get some coolant leaking back the other way that you can spot when you start the engine, but the fire ring might only pass gas when the engine is running. Sometimes gaskets aren't fitted quite perfectly and get nicked or trapped. I've had one that failed immediately, luckily it pissed coolant out on the floor so it was easy to spot. Hopefully it isn't something more difficult like a porous head. You might want to check the temperature senders themselves. As they age, the resistance goes up and the temperature reading goes down. A poor earth can cause low readings that jump up when loads like the headlights or fan come on. A stuck or passing thermostat means it will take an age to come up to temperature, possibly never getting there if you are moving. Try leaving it idling, or fast idling, for 10-20 minutes and the temperature should come up even if the thermostat is open. You can also check if the radiator is warm soon after startup when the temperature is still very low.
  3. Lithopsian

    Re: Rear lights New or Old

    I don't seem to be able to reply on this topic, only vote. The voting is very one-sided, but I suspect people may have more to say than just "don't like it". I think the lights look quite good, but I'd be interested to know more about the format, which segments do what, whether the fog and reverse lights are incorporated, etc.
  4. Lithopsian

    S2 K Series - Bleed Screw

    Go on then ... M6x1.0x how long?
  5. Lithopsian

    Tyre help please

    The AD08RS is a slightly tweaked design to meet new regulations on noise, fuel consumption, and wet performance. So basically the same tyre, but slightly less sticky. The label shows 3-5 dB quieter and one notch better for rolling resistance. Wet performance is still the same at B. Whether there's enough difference to notice on the road is anybody's guess. I think the AD07 is being phased out, and not replaced, for the same reason. Probably only old stock now.
  6. Lithopsian

    Elise S1 non starter

    12V to the coil should come from the main relay, in the MFRU. Then the ECU gives it a path to earth. So the MFRU is the big suspect. The coil comes from big plug pin 8, brown and pink wire. Note that there are two pins with brown and pink wires, and they're connected to each other internally. If there is no power there, then look for the relay input on pin 6, brown wire, which comes from the maxi fuse.
  7. Lithopsian

    Lucy lives on!

    Shiny!
  8. Lithopsian

    1997 S1 Elise Bonnet Hinge replacement

    I think its an over-played problem, but it certainly gets your heart rate up when you pull the handle and it doesn't open. Unless you've got it really badly aligned and then forced it closed when it didn't want to go, it can be freed by pushing the bonnet in one direction or another so the catch is more central and it will pop open. Take care that the catch is aligned with the hole when you're adjusting and you'll be fine.
  9. Lithopsian

    1997 S1 Elise Bonnet Hinge replacement

    I've become an expert at how to open the catch when it isn't quite aligned right :) I just can't leave the bonnet wonky!
  10. The Elise brake light switch is from a Ford, early Fiesta I think but probably others too. I'm pretty sure the Exige uses the same switch.
  11. Lithopsian

    1997 S1 Elise Bonnet Hinge replacement

    Looks like new!
  12. Lithopsian

    1997 S1 Elise Bonnet Hinge replacement

    You can certainly buy the bits for the hinge mechanism, but you probably don't want to or need to. Comes in several pieces. For example, the "hinge rotor", the big piece that bolts to the bonnet itself, is 130 quid from Elise Shop. The bracket, the piece that should be rivetted to the clam, is much more reasonable. The "hinge" is simply a bolt that runs through the bracket and a tunnel at the end of the rotor. So salvage what you have, clean it, grease it, maybe replace the bolt (and washers and nuts) with something that won't get all rusted up, and stick it back to the clam. Replace the bracket if it is badly corroded. Probably bolt it unless you're good with rivets, sikaflex is useful with rivets to stop them breaking again. Fiddly with the clam on.
  13. Lithopsian

    New Member, coolant loss

    The pipework has two holes, so they had to put something in them both. The blue one is not used for anything on the S2, although I believe it is an entirely functional sensor.
  14. Lithopsian

    New member on a rescue mission

    Cambelt is doable by a competent DIY-er, but like many Elise jobs you'll need a few special tools, very long flexible arms, and a liking for swearing at seized bolts. Remember the car is nearly 20 years old, so everything steel is going to be thoroughly corroded. Take your time and it shouldn't be a problem. Trouble starts when you start shearing off bolts or stripping threads in the engine block. Tell you what, if you can get the wheel arch liner off without a dremel, then you should be good to go!
  15. Lithopsian

    bulb out on rear clam brake light

    One bulb out of four not working is OK for MOT. Even two is OK. Three is a fail. By bizarre MOT rules, four is a pass because there is no way for the tester to be sure that it is actually a connected brake light. Best to have all four so you're not pushing your luck and winding up the tester. The 06 Exige uses the same centre brake light as the Elise S1, four 5W capless in holders that twist into the lamp from the rear. Some later models went to LED units, red LEDs with a clear lens. In the bootbox S1, you just reach in to the boot and twist out the bulb holder you want, never tried it on an Exige. LED replacements in the standard holder will not have the same beam pattern. At the very least, you'll want to replace all four to avoid them looking odd. Good ones will be OK, poor ones may not project well from the reflector. Also, white LEDs don't work well behind red lenses, red LEDs do better. And not legal, of course Not sure why everyone's bulbs are blowing, they should last tens of thousands of miles unless you sit on the brakes at traffic lights.
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