William D8on Posted March 23 Author Posted March 23 Progress is good. slow and steady As I was getting a new gearbox, on Thursday evening I pulled off the gearbox, clutch and flywheel. This will slow things down as I need to wait for more cash before I can purchase the replacement clutch and QED light weight fly wheel. In the mean time Ill build the motor as much as I can. Friday I went to pick up a PG1 gearbox with a torsten A clutch. It had come out of an S2 with a 160 Kseries motor. I need to spend some time turning to get an understanding of what ratios it has. I gave it a clean, but needs some more. Sunday I started to change parts. Oil pump, Water pump, cam belts, tensioner all replaced along with an 82° thermostat and a crank case sensor. after a bit of fastner cleanup, next will be the altinator with new belt. and then... Well not sure. maybe start labeling the wiring. Quote
MrWill Posted March 24 Posted March 24 Keep up the good work. Slow and steady wins the day. S2 box should have nice ratios. A couple of S1 models had " long " boxes Identification grid here https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Rover_PG1_gearbox Look up Andrew Goater (.On Facebook I think or just Google search) if you want the box refreshing or having different ratios fitted and either dont fancy doing it yourself or want to save time while you crack on with other stuff Good luck MrWill 👍 Quote
William D8on Posted March 24 Author Posted March 24 more cleaning the dribble above on the right is just so think!Good enough I think. I may need more chemicals or abrasive to get it any better. Quote
William D8on Posted March 24 Author Posted March 24 after some Ideas on what to do with the brackets. how much would it cost to get them profesionaly cleaned up and re electroplated vs purchasing my own DIY vs replacing them all Sand and spray silver or black. reading up on the electroplating, the zink is sacrificial to protect the steel behind it... I always though it was to form a layer that stopped oxidation. I guess it does that for a while, unitl it doesnt... Quote
Lithopsian Posted March 25 Posted March 25 Where do those brackets go? I don't recognise them. Is it for the oil cooler? Do you need the same bracket? Only pennies to buy new. MG Rover part PBU000030. Otherwise most people just paint/epoxy old steel bits unless they have a big enough batch to make it worth coating them since it is typically the same price for anything from one screw up to a subframe and complete set of wishbones. Rich Selocers have come up with Cerakote as the latest must-have, very nice but might be overkill for something you aren't going to see; potentially can DIY but prep is a bit arduous. Quote
Lithopsian Posted March 25 Posted March 25 On a different point, where did you get the lightened crank pulley? Did it come with the engine? Quote
collieek Posted March 25 Posted March 25 (edited) I do remember a thread on SELOC about the lightened crank pulleys causing crank failures I will have a look and see if I can find it. I think the problem is increased vibration as the standard one has a bonded rubber insert. Edited March 25 by collieek 1 Quote
collieek Posted March 25 Posted March 25 https://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/forum/topic/65062-k-series-lightweight-crank-pulleys/ If you go on SELOC do a search there are quite a few threads, from what I can see it looks like removing the extra pulley is OK but replacing the whole pulley not. 1 Quote
Lithopsian Posted March 25 Posted March 25 12 minutes ago, collieek said: I do remember a thread on SELOC about the lightened crank pulleys causing crank failures I will have a look and see if I can find it. The OEM pulley has a rubber section that is designed to dampen harmonic vibrations that would otherwise build up and potentially over-stress the crankshaft. When this happens will depend on how much you happen to drive at the wrong revs, possibly never. The usual replacement for road use is to keep the damper, but with the unnecessary bit of the pulley removed. You can do this yourself or Eliseparts used to sell one all nicely done for you. 1 Quote
collieek Posted March 25 Posted March 25 (edited) 1 hour ago, Lithopsian said: The OEM pulley has a rubber section that is designed to dampen harmonic vibrations that would otherwise build up and potentially over-stress the crankshaft. When this happens will depend on how much you happen to drive at the wrong revs, possibly never. The usual replacement for road use is to keep the damper, but with the unnecessary bit of the pulley removed. You can do this yourself or Eliseparts used to sell one all nicely done for you. I will try removing the surplus part next time I change the cam belt maybe buy another pulley I have a lathe so easy to remove it myself. Edited March 25 by collieek j Quote
William D8on Posted March 28 Author Posted March 28 Hello Guys Really appreciate the responces. got hold of Elise parts to get an opinion. They agreed but said, with the oil pump I have it should be fine, just dont go too far over 7K. With the upgraded oil pump it will be perfect. Or I could purchase thern stronger gear and fit it to my previous oil pump. So will keep it like that for now.. Got the lotus back Yesterday, so the motor is not packed away into a corner, and the engin crane going back Tomorrow. will look to pick this up again later in the year when I can get the flywheel and Clutch. Quote
William D8on Posted March 28 Author Posted March 28 On 25/03/2026 at 19:40, collieek said: I will try removing the surplus part next time I change the cam belt maybe buy another pulley I have a lathe so easy to remove it myself. They are balanced, so be sure to balance it again once machined. Quote
William D8on Posted March 29 Author Posted March 29 On 25/03/2026 at 15:18, Lithopsian said: On a different point, where did you get the lightened crank pulley? Did it come with the engine? https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/engine-block/drive-belts-pulleys/lightweight-aluminium-crankshaft-pulley/ Quote
William D8on Posted March 29 Author Posted March 29 On 25/03/2026 at 15:07, Lithopsian said: Where do those brackets go? I don't recognise them. Is it for the oil cooler? Do you need the same bracket? Only pennies to buy new. MG Rover part PBU000030. Otherwise most people just paint/epoxy old steel bits unless they have a big enough batch to make it worth coating them since it is typically the same price for anything from one screw up to a subframe and complete set of wishbones. Rich Selocers have come up with Cerakote as the latest must-have, very nice but might be overkill for something you aren't going to see; potentially can DIY but prep is a bit arduous. Yes these are the oil cooler bracket. water cooled not air cooled. Does that mean the water also warms it up? Quote
William D8on Posted April 20 Author Posted April 20 Hello Guys Project bathroom ongoing. I was wondeing if anybody know of a place in the midlands that would balance the clutch and flywheel as an assembly? I know its best to do the crank too, but not sure I really want to pull the crank. If I pull the crank its new head gaskets, and headbolts... Open to opinions Quote
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