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About MrWill

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  • Location
    Greater Manchester

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  • Car Type
    Elise S2
  1. Thank you for your words of wisdom Gentlemen. Interestingly no one (who's replied) is running the ATR dampers? While my head says the billy's will be just fine (and I know they will be Dean) I'd always be thinking I wonder what the Quantums would be like. Great to hear some good feedback about Jonathan's road only use. I'll give Elise parts a ring to discuss before buying - which won't be until this summers driving is over at which point I'll be doing the full refresh 'thing'. Which will be fun as everything is rusted and when I say rusted think ship wreck - I think she's been previously stored in the sea In the meantime I am half way through fitting the 7/8th ARB. Oh and swapping the horrid EBC green stuff pads for for some 1144s while I wait for some ARB poly bushes following a WTF moment when I opened up the Nytralon bushes from Elise Parts and realised how hard they are - I still think leg bricks are the hardest thing know to man. (would you have to crack them in half to fit them??) Thanks again for all your comments and remember...Apothic red: highly recommended Regards Will Crusty Rusty
  2. Well actually it is about suspension and what's worse, I am now on my second bottle of red. Best road suspension pour va voir? forget track days - if I do them I'll hustle it around don't you worry. In the real world I drive on 'the road'. And its quite bumpy out there in real world, I tell thee. I'm running on old bilsteins - who knows they may be original 15 years after she left the factory? So basically anything is going to feel 'amazables' by comparison, But what is actually going to be the best road set up? I have no experience running anything else so here's where you may be able to help me? Here's what I know: Having talked to Ollie at Phoenix motorsport he recommended another set of the Bilsteins - Option 1, or NTR street series (don't like them, no reason just not on my list). My other two options are the quantum 2000 or ATR damper both on road set up; obviously. These two bad boys appear to need regular servicing every two years so that makes me think that they better be appreciably better than the fire and forget Billy's to warrant faffing about every 24 months and spending even more on servicing. Does the marketing hype and servicing cost and faff warrant me getting anything other than the standard S2 Bilsteins which have just become available on Eliseparts? So does anyone out there have any experience of any of these three options as road set up and an idea of service costs? I'd very much appreciate your thoughts Todays serving suggestion is Apothic Californian red. It's VERY nice. Regards Will
  3. Every so slightly bashful as I really shouldn't drink gallons of G&T on a school day before then signing on to the forum. Anyway a problem shared ... as they say.
  4. ...and withdraw. Those dreaded Haynes manual words which strike fear into many a home mechanic. Loosely and often interpreted as smash repeatedly with the biggest persuader at your disposal, rein down on it with fire and ice. Concede defeat and go inside an sulk in corner of the lounge plotting your revenge. Having worked on my rally car for the last 14 years I thought the immaculate engine bay and underside of an Elise would signal the start of a new era, I thought the fundamental lie which is; 'and withdraw' would change..idiot. So having enjoyed the Elise since purchasing in March I've got a few small initial improvements. A new ARB will be fitted for no other reason than I have it so I might as well fit it. The rattling passenger door which the guy I had bought it off had 'hidden' by fitting the hardtop when I had a test drive, wasn't sorted by the larger door pins I fitted - turns out I'm missing one or more window blocks apparently (whatever they are - I'll be asking for advice on the tech forum at some point). The Lotus in the Park morning blast around the Peaks revealed a recalcitrant gear lever downshift under braking - which I've decided to address with an adjustment of the short-shift linkage, an Eliseparts lower engine mount and clutch slave reinforcing bracket. ...which brings me back to my first experience working on the Elise. So the clutch slave bracket is 'apparently' a half hour job; just remove three bolts and refit. Well it's taken me six weekends to 'with-#%$'ing-draw' the gearbox nut and bolt. Some of the following may sound familiar to some of you: Wedged myself under the car chest touching the sump with my chest as I breathed in, with about as much arm leverage as a T-Rex. Position assumed I start by using penetrating spray again and again. Then I used my spanner carefully but felt the nut starting to round and immediately stopped. Que purchasing long arm spanner specially for the job...only to feel the nut starting to round again, albeit that feeling came from a little further away. I then applied the fires of Dante worrying that if I dropped the flame it would land on, and melt my face - It didn't work but then again I didn't melt my face. I then bought a special set of locking sockets which are another great way to round the wax-like gearbox nut (and bolt) of the K series. Time to use a nut cracker on this bad boy. Nope. Just too soft but managed to re-shape it like Plasticine. It was then I decided to flay at it for an hour or so with newly bought cold chisels but the metal is so soft it just distorted. The proud new owner of a super dremel; I then used the worlds smallest angle grinder attached to a flexible drive and spent 50mins carefully grinding a slice into the nut. And at then, at some point (it's all quite hazy as I was delirious and crying), the dremel broke the seal and it came loose. I 'withdrew'. The nut a bolt remain on show to remind me of the fight and the lessons learnt. If there is a moral to this story it similar to the sex education advice given to sixth formers; 'The withdrawal technique is not safe or guaranteed to work; just don't trust it will be alright like your friends tell you it will' Oh, and I just found out that the bracket doesn't fit and I'll have to loosen and move the water pipe work to give it room. The Eliseparts instructions make it sound so easy, I'm already suspicious. Thanks for listening. I feel healed.
  5. Thank you both; Very much appreciated. MrWill
  6. Hello Ladies and Gents While determined to just enjoy and get to know my newly acquired S2 K series this summer before making any changes or mods, I have updated the rear with LED lights which makes the rear look as modern as the front IMO. I've also got fed up with a truculent 2nd gear. I've decided this is the previously fitted quick shift whose adjustable linkage needs winding in a bit...feel free to put me right on that, but it seem like a good starting point. So to the real question: having removed the rear diffuser to look at the quick shift I've decided to replace a couple of exhaust bushes and brackets while I'm there as well as the toe link heat shields. Please can someone tell me why there is only one heat shield on the nearside and not one on the offside? Is it as simple as there's not enough 'heat' to warrant a heat shield? Next question: There are pilot indentations where the offside heat shield would be fitted, which indicate that I could drill these out and tap a thread, to fix the other heat shield. While it may not be necessary my OCD sensibilities for having one on both sides is telling me to do it even if its not necessary...this is the point where someone needs to stop me if disaster is looming or give me some confidence to proceed if I'm not going to do any harm fitting the other heat shield Your experience and advice would be much appreciated. Best wishes MrWill