Midlands Lotus Owners Club (MLOC)

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more!

This message will be removed once you have signed in.


Full club member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About MrWill

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Greater Manchester

Additional Information

  • Car Type
    Elise S2
  1. Hi there Sorry for the delay i responding with photos Here's a few pictures of the hardtop. This afternoon I cut away the lining around the threads. They all seem to be just a heli-coil inserted direct into the GRP. Two were standing proud and the other was knackered. I've tided up the two end heli-coils - now flush fitting and some araldite to finish. The thread of the middle one had separated as the hole is just too big for the heli-coil. So I've taken it out and, (after plugging the hole with some cardboard glued to the inside), I plan to fill in the hole with some (as yet to be decided) 'stuff'. The aim being to drill it out, re-tap and insert a better fitting thread. That's it for now...until next weekend.
  2. MLOC Calendar - 2018 - Photos Needed

    No, nada, nothing. it's not happening. Resized to below 1mb and at 1024x615 pixels and it's still not accepting my picture. Never mind; it is some small consolation that it was chosen as my 'desktop 2018' in a very brief private ceremony earlier this evening.
  3. Ooooh Rivnuts! That will be genius Dr H if there's something for them to pop through & crush back on, but I don't know if there is...yet. I've just been peering through some small holes in the lining up to now so no pictures. I was hoping someone might have some pics of the bare fitting before I started pulling the lining off but I suspect I need to just Peel the lining away and see what I've got to play with. If bonding a female thread turns out to be the way to go do you recommend fibreglass as the way to go? There's some small but significant (15-20nm perhaps) turning forces on the female thread when tightening the hardtop on so will fibreglass / resin work or is there another go-to bonding product where which people have used in the past? I'll speak to Lotus hard tops tomorrow and if it seems like it's DIY time, I'll get some photos posted up. Thanks and Best wishes MrWill
  4. Thanks stockhome - that's really interesting and helpful. I'll give the guys a lotus hard tops a call in a few days to see if they fancy a repair job - depending on their enthusiasm and cost I may still give it a go myself. Not sure where my roof was born then, if not at Hethel? It seems really solid and is fully lined in matching suede to the dash and has all the weather proof seals etc. If it is aftermarket it's been well done....apart from the bolt holes obviously! Thanks again Mr Will
  5. Morning ! The 'long tail' hardtop which came with the S2 has turned to be a bit of a lemon. Not only did it hide a rattly passenger door on the pre-purchase test drive (now fixed), all manner of bits fell out of the internal threads when I look it off. It's genuine Lotus item but one of the previous owners appears to have stripped two of the three internal threads along the front edge. Whatever was bonded in there previously to act as a female thread is no longer there and in one of the holes it looks like an bodged attempt at heli-coiling into the GRP has been made. I've not stripped the liner back yet but before I do anything I can't undo, I'd appreciate it if anyone has had a similar challenge and can share their method & materials of doing a the repair. Any photos of what it should look like would be good too. Alternatively is there anyone out there who does hardtop repairs such as this who I could get in touch with? Many thanks MrWill
  6. Elise s2 door latch - help

    Thanks for the words of wisdom Jonathan - gives me another couple of things to tick off the 'tried that' list. I've moved the pins around already; the door seals look fine - but I'll check again. If the electricity tape does work then I think that will be point to the latch. BTW - I read that a vibration / rattle from the small pins can (if not sorted) simply wear the latch. There's a few second hand vx220 latches around which might be worth a cheap punt to find out. Thanks again Will
  7. Passenger door rattle now believed to be a worn latch mechanism after my LitP plus one discovered that applying pressure on the door outwards or inwards cured the rattle ( I've previously fitted larger striker pins and checked the nylon blocks and window mech and adjusted the window and adjusted the latch position and checked the hinge ) So...Can anyone tell me where I can get a passenger door latch from? I don't fancy paying £138 + vat. Main dealer prices and there's nothing on e-bizzle. Especially so if they are ( so I believe) a standard GM item and might be something I can get one by looking through the parts bin for some common-a-garden family hatch. Anyone been there, done that, got the badge? Many thanks MrWill
  8. Newbie checking in.

    WELCOME ! Nice to post this after being made so welcome last year. Great forum filled to the rafters with genuinely friendly folk...come to Lotus in the Peaks and feel the love! MrWill
  9. Not Another Suspension Query?

    Thank you for your words of wisdom Gentlemen. Interestingly no one (who's replied) is running the ATR dampers? While my head says the billy's will be just fine (and I know they will be Dean) I'd always be thinking I wonder what the Quantums would be like. Great to hear some good feedback about Jonathan's road only use. I'll give Elise parts a ring to discuss before buying - which won't be until this summers driving is over at which point I'll be doing the full refresh 'thing'. Which will be fun as everything is rusted and when I say rusted think ship wreck - I think she's been previously stored in the sea In the meantime I am half way through fitting the 7/8th ARB. Oh and swapping the horrid EBC green stuff pads for for some 1144s while I wait for some ARB poly bushes following a WTF moment when I opened up the Nytralon bushes from Elise Parts and realised how hard they are - I still think leg bricks are the hardest thing know to man. (would you have to crack them in half to fit them??) Thanks again for all your comments and remember...Apothic red: highly recommended Regards Will Crusty Rusty
  10. Well actually it is about suspension and what's worse, I am now on my second bottle of red. Best road suspension pour va voir? forget track days - if I do them I'll hustle it around don't you worry. In the real world I drive on 'the road'. And its quite bumpy out there in real world, I tell thee. I'm running on old bilsteins - who knows they may be original 15 years after she left the factory? So basically anything is going to feel 'amazables' by comparison, But what is actually going to be the best road set up? I have no experience running anything else so here's where you may be able to help me? Here's what I know: Having talked to Ollie at Phoenix motorsport he recommended another set of the Bilsteins - Option 1, or NTR street series (don't like them, no reason just not on my list). My other two options are the quantum 2000 or ATR damper both on road set up; obviously. These two bad boys appear to need regular servicing every two years so that makes me think that they better be appreciably better than the fire and forget Billy's to warrant faffing about every 24 months and spending even more on servicing. Does the marketing hype and servicing cost and faff warrant me getting anything other than the standard S2 Bilsteins which have just become available on Eliseparts? So does anyone out there have any experience of any of these three options as road set up and an idea of service costs? I'd very much appreciate your thoughts Todays serving suggestion is Apothic Californian red. It's VERY nice. Regards Will
  11. ...and Withdraw

    Every so slightly bashful as I really shouldn't drink gallons of G&T on a school day before then signing on to the forum. Anyway a problem shared ... as they say.
  12. ...and Withdraw

    ...and withdraw. Those dreaded Haynes manual words which strike fear into many a home mechanic. Loosely and often interpreted as smash repeatedly with the biggest persuader at your disposal, rein down on it with fire and ice. Concede defeat and go inside an sulk in corner of the lounge plotting your revenge. Having worked on my rally car for the last 14 years I thought the immaculate engine bay and underside of an Elise would signal the start of a new era, I thought the fundamental lie which is; 'and withdraw' would change..idiot. So having enjoyed the Elise since purchasing in March I've got a few small initial improvements. A new ARB will be fitted for no other reason than I have it so I might as well fit it. The rattling passenger door which the guy I had bought it off had 'hidden' by fitting the hardtop when I had a test drive, wasn't sorted by the larger door pins I fitted - turns out I'm missing one or more window blocks apparently (whatever they are - I'll be asking for advice on the tech forum at some point). The Lotus in the Park morning blast around the Peaks revealed a recalcitrant gear lever downshift under braking - which I've decided to address with an adjustment of the short-shift linkage, an Eliseparts lower engine mount and clutch slave reinforcing bracket. ...which brings me back to my first experience working on the Elise. So the clutch slave bracket is 'apparently' a half hour job; just remove three bolts and refit. Well it's taken me six weekends to 'with-#%$'ing-draw' the gearbox nut and bolt. Some of the following may sound familiar to some of you: Wedged myself under the car chest touching the sump with my chest as I breathed in, with about as much arm leverage as a T-Rex. Position assumed I start by using penetrating spray again and again. Then I used my spanner carefully but felt the nut starting to round and immediately stopped. Que purchasing long arm spanner specially for the job...only to feel the nut starting to round again, albeit that feeling came from a little further away. I then applied the fires of Dante worrying that if I dropped the flame it would land on, and melt my face - It didn't work but then again I didn't melt my face. I then bought a special set of locking sockets which are another great way to round the wax-like gearbox nut (and bolt) of the K series. Time to use a nut cracker on this bad boy. Nope. Just too soft but managed to re-shape it like Plasticine. It was then I decided to flay at it for an hour or so with newly bought cold chisels but the metal is so soft it just distorted. The proud new owner of a super dremel; I then used the worlds smallest angle grinder attached to a flexible drive and spent 50mins carefully grinding a slice into the nut. And at then, at some point (it's all quite hazy as I was delirious and crying), the dremel broke the seal and it came loose. I 'withdrew'. The nut a bolt remain on show to remind me of the fight and the lessons learnt. If there is a moral to this story it similar to the sex education advice given to sixth formers; 'The withdrawal technique is not safe or guaranteed to work; just don't trust it will be alright like your friends tell you it will' Oh, and I just found out that the bracket doesn't fit and I'll have to loosen and move the water pipe work to give it room. The Eliseparts instructions make it sound so easy, I'm already suspicious. Thanks for listening. I feel healed.
  13. DSC02907a

  14. DSC02903