russelld Posted February 22, 2012 Posted February 22, 2012 My car is currently running rather well. There are a couple of anoying issues however. 1) When she has been given a bit of a workout it takes a long time to return to normal idle speed. The engine holds at about 2000 rpm and then slowly returns to its normal idle of just under 1000 rpm ( it takes around a minute for the idle speed to return to normal ) 2) The engine has quite a tappety top end knock and after the recent trackday at Blyton this seems to be slightly worse. My first thought regarding the high idle is that the throttle boddies could do with a strip down, a clean, some lubrication and a general once over. At the same time I would like to quieten down the tappety knock. My plan is to remove the cylinder head and take it to Sabre heads for Rog to inspect, replace any worn valve guides, oil seals etc and re shim the cam followers. I do have a problem in that my garage is only the size of a shoe box and I don't have anywhere to store the rear clam if this has to come off. How difficult would it be for me to do the work required leaving the clam on ? I would have thought most of the work can be done ok. I realise that fitting the new timing belt is a PITA but understand this can be done. Are there any other issues / reasons why I would be better to bite the bullet and find some way of removing the clam ? All advice will be very welcome.
kayj_prod Posted February 22, 2012 Posted February 22, 2012 Well, taking heads off is beyond my current skill level, but personally, the idea of leaning over the back end for any length of time to do significant work would put me off. (Doesn't everyone store front/rear clams in their dining room/spare room?!!)
Martin R Posted February 22, 2012 Posted February 22, 2012 Russ, sounds like the throttle bodies. However could be the IACV sticking a bit as well i suppose. The head removal is a lot easier with the clam removed although you can do it without. If you remove the clam you will also spot a few other jobs that require attention no doubt. I had to clean the rear roll bar stays for instance and give them a coat of POR. Remove the clam and stick it in the back garden if you have got room. Yours has solid cam followers obviously. The tappety noise will mean they need a reshim. Kiwi rog sounds like and excellent idea. One tip when you lift the head. Have someone on standby with a sheet of carboard as you lift it. Slap it between the head and block as it comes up. Its suprising the amount of oil a head retains. Trust me it makes a right mess. Also get some vernier pulleys and time the cams properly if you have not done so. I would be running it till the winter and then doing the work personally. These things tend to snowball and we might even have a summer this year. Edit, could be sticky throttle cable as well.
jimbo07g41 Posted February 22, 2012 Posted February 22, 2012 Hi Russ, you can do the head with the clam on but it is much easier if its off. You would be best to remove the boot lid and you can just replace it when you are not working on the car. You remove the drivers side wheel and wheel arch liner off. You can then get fairly good access by lowering the engine on the mount. You can also get the belt on by removing and replacing one mount bolt at a time. Well, taking heads off is beyond my current skill level, but personally, the idea of leaning over the back end for any length of time to do significant work would put me off. (Doesn't everyone store front/rear clams in their dining room/spare room?!!) I put my clams in the conservatry and also rebuilt my gearbox shaft in there. I think you could do a head change in half a day and its not too hard if you have a manual/guide.
R.I.B. Posted February 22, 2012 Posted February 22, 2012 Russ, my engine sounded extra tappy after a track day at bedford. checked the oil, still full but changed it for some good fresh oil and the tappets sound went back to normal. So it maybe that the oil has got very hot and lost some of it's viscosity.
russelld Posted February 23, 2012 Author Posted February 23, 2012 Thanks for all the advice. There is a lot of sense in Martins suggestion of leaving the job until next winter. I am concerened that cam wear may result though if not rectified. I will first change the oil to see if this makes it any quieter as per Phil's suggestion. I'll also remove and clean the throttle bodies and make sure that the throttle cable is not sticking to try and improve the idling when hot. If this does not work I'll then change the IACV as Martin has suggested. Jamie it's good to hear that if the head does need to come off that I can do the work without removing the clam as I don't have a conservatory ! I could hang it on the lounge wall though.
jimbo07g41 Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 A couple of well placed hooks can make it into quite a nice living room feature. I would also use a good engine flush and replace the oil first. I have been amazed how much my oil looked degraded after a couple of trackdays.
a7esk Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 I used this person came to the house did all the work very impressed. http://www.mgroversolutions.com/ Did all the work with the clam on. Eddie.
Martin R Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 Russ changing the oil on yours will make no difference as you have solid lifters. It can have a big effect with hydraulic ones. IMO you will do no damage with them just being a bit " tappety " The solid shim sits between the tappet bucket and the top of the valve. If it really bothers you, you need to do the following. Measure the current gaps on all the inlet and exhaust valves and make a note of them. I would expect some to be within tolerance and some out. Remove the cam belt at 90 DBTDC. Remove the cam carrier and cams. Remove the solid lifters as required. Measure the current shim thickness and adjust as required. I would expect the ones that are out would be worn and would require new thicker shims. I have no idea on the method of doing this on a K series. On old Minis it was the rule of 9. Number one valve had to be fully open and you checked number 8. Number two open and you checked number 7 etc etc. Im sure one of the regular Guru,s will put you right though. Bolt it back together and check the gaps again. Repeat till they are all bang on. A bit of a PITA bent over the car and with the clam on IMO. Before anyone comments on the time i posted this, Im on nights this week
russelld Posted February 24, 2012 Author Posted February 24, 2012 Eddie Thanks for the heads up ( no pun intened ) on mgroversolutions. I have heard of this guy before and apparently he does a first class job. I do intend to do this myself though but it is good to know there is someone who I could pay to sort me out if I get into a mess. Martin thanks. I am still undecided If I should leave this until next winter. I will do an oil change and monitor. I know you say it won't make any difference with the solid lifteres, but worth a try to monitor the result ( The Yota in Phil's 111R has solid lifters IIRC ). Thanks guys.
a7esk Posted February 28, 2012 Posted February 28, 2012 Eddie Thanks for the heads up ( no pun intened ) on mgroversolutions. I have heard of this guy before and apparently he does a first class job. I do intend to do this myself though but it is good to know there is someone who I could pay to sort me out if I get into a mess. Martin thanks. I am still undecided If I should leave this until next winter. I will do an oil change and monitor. I know you say it won't make any difference with the solid lifteres, but worth a try to monitor the result ( The Yota in Phil's 111R has solid lifters IIRC ). Thanks guys. That's ok I did hesitate in posting it but it could be us full in the future . Eddie
russelld Posted March 6, 2012 Author Posted March 6, 2012 I have just removed the air box and there is some black soot which looks like it's coming from either the crankcase breather pipe or no 2 throttle body ? The first picture shows the black soot on the airbox back plate. The second picture shows the butterflies of the throttle bodies once the backplate has been removed. As you can see no 2 throttle body does not look any different to the other 3. This would seem to indicate that the black sooty deposit is coming from the breather although I'm puzzled as to why is a sooty deposit. What are your thoughts ? I have also just noticed that there is a smaller amount of soot on no4 throttle body trumpet.
Martin R Posted March 6, 2012 Posted March 6, 2012 Russ, its oil mist coming out the breather pipe. Some people fit an oil catch tank after rerouting the pipe work. IIRC mine looks very similar to that with the airbox off.
russelld Posted March 7, 2012 Author Posted March 7, 2012 Russ, its oil mist coming out the breather pipe. Some people fit an oil catch tank after rerouting the pipe work. IIRC mine looks very similar to that with the airbox off. Thanks Martin, That was my first thought. Just puzzled as to why it was sotty rather than oily ?
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.