Fitting New Exhaust

[christurbo]

Hi Ive just read the following FAQ regarding the fitment of an exhaust......

 

http://www.elises.co.uk/diy/exhaust/index.html

 

 

Is there any additional tips you can give me on doing this to fit my Exige Janspeed Supersport Exhaust....and maybe a de cat pipe....

 

Ive never fitted an exhaust before and am a bit wary on doing it!!!!

 

Will my Jack be OK to lift up one side, or do i need some ramps/stands???

 

Any help from someone who has done this would be great!

[dobbo]

Ramps ! Do NOT work under the car that's only on a jack on one side. One of my mate's Dad got killed when a jack collapsed.....

 

Not read the link, but the advice is pretty good on most things. Off the top of my head, some thoughts - apologies if they're in the link you posted

 

I'd get someone to help as you reverse onto ramps so you get confidence that you won't go off the back. Some old carpet underneath the ramps can help stop them sliding out as you reverse up them.

 

Start soaking all the nuts the day before. Replace with stainless nuts and bolts (not Nylocs, though, as the plastic insert will melt !).

 

Exhaust gaskets are about 70p each from a Rover dealer. If you can't get them, you can reuse the old ones.

 

Chris

[Mr_Belowski]

Chris Foulds near Huddersfield fitted my new Janspeed on Friday and only charged £110 (+vat) labour (new downpipe, cat, exhaust). Might be worth finding out how much your preferred place would do it for to save a load of work? Oh, and it'll stink and smoke like hell when you first drive it, so don't be alarmed. Took about 70 miles to clear all the smells and smoke on mine

 

On a side note, the new Janspeed seems a nice bit of kit. Not too uncivilised for normal driving, but makes an appalling racket when you floor it. Which is just about perfect . Made the car feel a whole lot smoother too, but then the old one was right royally fukt

[christurbo]

Can a kwik fit sort it???

 

They fitted my Civic Type R Spoon N1 kit for £15 cash in hand.

 

 

If doing myself - I need:-

 

Ramps [bTW I have a 2 tonne hydraulic pump jack so cannot collapse - would i be able to get at the exhaust and bits with one side raised???

 

Nuts and Bolts - what sizes?? 15mm i believe?

 

Thanks!

[malbon]

as dobbo says.

 

get some mini ramps and get your hand dirty.

 

be prepared to swear when all the bolts are seized on solid

[dobbo]

BTW I have a 2 tonne hydraulic pump jack so cannot collapse

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

DO NOT TRUST IT ! You're playing with life remember.... That's what my mate's Dad did and he's now in the ground

 

Jacks are rated, with a bypass line if they're overloaded. That's it - no quality control suitable for the protection of human life.

 

Ramps are inspected as they're designed for people to be under cars.

 

Chances are you'll be OK, but is it really worth the risk for £35 for a pair of ramps ?????

 

 

Nuts and bolts - M10 / 17mm IIRC. No certain though, sorry.

[christurbo]

Cheers mate.. will look into to bits and bobs needed!

 

Hope my nuts n bolts arnt seized

 

Where shall i get them from B&Q???

 

 

EDIT:-

 

Can i use axle stands instead of ramps [got no where to put ramps!]

[dobbo]

Can i use axle stands instead of ramps [got no where to put ramps!]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Can i use axle stands instead of ramps [got no where to put ramps!]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Yep - but I think you need the middle undertray off first. That means

 

remove undertrays

jack up one side

lower car onto first axle stand (will also drop back onto the front wheel)

remove jack

jack up other side

place second axle stand

lower onto second axle stand

 

The are times during this that have the car on just 3 support points, not 4. the car can be a bit unstable doing this so stay clear, just in case. I wouldn't be tempted to use 2 jacks at the same time as the manual warns against it (you'd be lifting the car on just 2 points then).

 

Don't think B&Q, or other DIY sheds, do stainless nuts and bolts. (I 'borrowed' mine from work )

 

You could try Screwfix, or look in Yellow Pages for suppliers.

 

Chris

[dr.j]

I did this a few months ago. I'd definitely use ramps in preference to axle stands - there is a lot less faffing involved. Totally agree with dobbo re jacks. And hydraulic jacks can fall of their own accord - if the seals/valves are worn. I know because I had an old one that did this.

 

-Be prepared to lose some skin off several knuckles.

 

-Soak the bolts in as much WD 40 as you can manage.

 

-Make sure you have access to an angle grinder - if you're replacing the bolts anyway (I'd get the eliseparts kit) then its much easier to just grind off that last nut that is rusted solid and won't move than to try undoing it.

 

-I really wished I had some ratchet spanners when I did mine.

 

-The original exhaust is bloody heavy so a 2nd person to help support its weight whilst its in that 'loose but not fully undone yet' state would be useful.

 

-Some gentle bending of the fibreglass underneath is required to get the old one out. Don't worry you won't break it!

 

Its quite a fiddly job but v satisfying when finished. I fitted a Chris Neil SS exhaust and decat pipe and it sounds superb.

[chorton_1]

I use axle stands although they are a bit more of a pain (jack up under jacking point to raise car, remove rear wheel, put axle stand under rear balljoint/wishbone). Not a massive amount of hassle, but certainly more work than ramps.

 

I'd recomend getting the Eliseparts fitting kit, slightly expensive but well worth it as it comes with stainless nuts, bolts, washers and gaskets. Also, I'd buy a complete set of (4? can't remember exactly) exhaust rubbers - very cheap if bought from a motor factors (c. £2.50) although more expensive / even longer lasting ones are available. You should then pretty much have all the bits to cover any eventuality, without significant outlay.

 

I'd suggest the help of a friend to help undo/redo the current exhaust mounting bolts (as the heads are located in the boot, but the nuts from up in the underbelly of the clam). Possible on your own but much easier with two.

[christurbo]

Juat spoke to a guy i know who works for Kwik Fit, he swapped my Spoon straight through Civic Type R exhaust,

 

He Said that he can do it for me [prob cash in hand - same as the type r]

 

Might save some of the hassle!!!

 

Just seems like - by the time i buy the things i need to get it swapped, i could have paid someone else to do it whilst i drink some coffee

[LIVY]

Hi Chris

 

I fitted a Stainless Steel Exhaust, De-Cat & Flexi from Elise parts.

 

I used the idiots guide with pics on http://www.elisenet.com/.

 

Step by stepo and really useful.

 

Would def use ramps as previous posts and a second pair of hands when removing bolts in the boot. I got stainless nuts and bolts from Eliseparts.

 

Once done though it a doddle if you need to remove again.

 

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

Livy

[christurbo]

Thanks mate,

 

I dont have an angle grinder so dont want to pay 50+ to get the bolts off. Hopefully they are not seized.

 

My exhaust should be here by the weekend, so i might get the rear undertray and soak the bolts in WD40.

 

How many are there inc the bracket bolts?

 

Oh and how do you get the boot out - to get access?

 

Thanks

[chorton_1]

Mines a '98 with a boot bag (as per the early cars). The bag just unclips along the top edge and you pull it out. There is then a bit of heat proof flooring which you pull out and the bolt heads are through the floor near the back.

[andrewhartley]

With you on the safety! Ramps plus stands as insurance! overcautious perhaps, but when you start swinging on those seized nuts things are bound to move.