AndyPeat Posted January 20, 2010 Posted January 20, 2010 Avoiding the £600+ at the dealers (clam off etc) Geary told me of instructions on the net how to change the resistor by going thro' the passenger access panel. Jesus, was it tricky, I honestly can't believe someone attempted this without knowing it was possible or not. They need a knighthood. It eventually cost me £30 or so from eliseparts, about 7hrs of my life plus most of the skin on my knuckles. Big sense of achievement after though, If your fan's dead and you're thinking of attempting this I can give you a few tips that aren't in the instructions. It's do'able in much less time but rotaing the heater to stand upright took hours as it was fouling on something out of sight. (worth noting I'm not particularly handy with cars) Very good idea to get two people on this if only for moral support!
stockhome Posted January 20, 2010 Posted January 20, 2010 My heater id just rubbish not much air comes out and its luke warm at best I am not sure if its the resistor pack or the heater flap what were your symptoms? and well done by the way
AndyPeat Posted January 20, 2010 Author Posted January 20, 2010 My heater id just rubbish not much air comes out and its luke warm at best I am not sure if its the resistor pack or the heater flap what were your symptoms? and well done by the way Typical fail is that the speeds go one at a time. I lost no. 1 about 2 years ago, closely followed by no.2. Managed on full blast until a month ago. It's the connectors slowly corroding (lotus, in their wisdom left it open to the elemens) not sure about your symtoms. When I had no fan speeds I did get a little bit of air through but not much and only at high speed, just from air pressure really. If it was the flap you should still get plenty of air but it would be stuck in one position, eg. footwell. Worth noting that I did get the fan back periodically on speed three but at a much slower speed. This is because of the poor corroded connection (nasty smell too) if you haven't got noticable fan speed diferences it could be the resistor. Fans on elises are LOUD!
jimbo07g41 Posted January 20, 2010 Posted January 20, 2010 If you can still change the fan speeds but are only getting the lukewarm air, this will be the actuator that operates the flap. Easy test is to to remove the inspection panel and remove the plastic drip tray. Then remove the flexi heater tube that looks like it should be behind your tumble dryer. Change the heater from cold to hot in the cabin and then move to the front of the car to look to see if the flap in the heater housing has changed position. If it has not you know that either it has stuck or your actuator has broken. May the Force be with you.
JonS Posted January 20, 2010 Posted January 20, 2010 My actuator does turn so well, it needs me to dismantle it and clean it up, but its far too cold for doing things like that! I have turned it all the way to hot and left it there so it always warms up nicely. For the moment. It needs to have the ali tube taken off to get at it properly. See here for a photo of mine in the thread I started.
BigTed234 Posted January 21, 2010 Posted January 21, 2010 It's do'able in much less time but rotaing the heater to stand upright took hours as it was fouling on something out of sight. I managed to do this job at the weekend too. Out of interest which way did you rotate the heater motor? Looking at the motor from directly in front of the car I did it clockwise - however the wiki on SELOC suggested anti-clockwise!?! I agree, it was very awkward but I had the most trouble getting the heater box and motor back in place. I did have a eureka moment after about an hour of cussing though. Took me about 3 hours in all - but I reckon I could do it in one now. Maybe my car was more forgiving than yours! Ted.
JonS Posted January 21, 2010 Posted January 21, 2010 Automated moderation message: Topic moved to the technical section
chris_h Posted January 21, 2010 Posted January 21, 2010 I replaced the blower at the same time as the resistor pack on mine as it was in a pretty bad condition. (didn't want to have to do/pay for the job twice)
AndyPeat Posted January 21, 2010 Author Posted January 21, 2010 I managed to do this job at the weekend too. Out of interest which way did you rotate the heater motor? Looking at the motor from directly in front of the car I did it clockwise - however the wiki on SELOC suggested anti-clockwise!?! I agree, it was very awkward but I had the most trouble getting the heater box and motor back in place. I did have a eureka moment after about an hour of cussing though. Took me about 3 hours in all - but I reckon I could do it in one now. Maybe my car was more forgiving than yours! Ted. I followed the wiki, it was a bugger to get over, after exhausting all possibilities, (unclipping coolant pipes, cable ties etc I found it was a 'spur' of wires that came off the main bunch that it was getting caught on right at the top, pushing the 'spur' of wires down the side of the heater was very stiff with hardly any room for it, barely possible it seemed. I would put the reason it took me so long down to me being shit at it more than anything else I reckon I could do it in a couple of hours now I've done it, I'm in no hurry though.
Jonathan E Posted January 21, 2010 Posted January 21, 2010 Well done Andy,I watched the guys at Nick Whale do mine a few years back but they took the clam off I can imagine how fiddly it is with the clam on,my 111r had also eaten the flap actuator and deformed the fan housing,happily Lotus warranty took care of these parts made of chocolate. Just to add a note, I have now talked to two owners who thought that they had the dreaded fan resistor pack problem only to discover that it was the electrical connections to the back of the dash control knob,always worth checking before losing all that skin off your knuckles
AndyPeat Posted January 22, 2010 Author Posted January 22, 2010 That's a good point Jonathan, I need to have a tickle round there myself, my heater/fan control lights have gone out.
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