Sundaydriver Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Ok, so please Honda / Audi options are banned from discussion in this thread ... Options: 1- DVA k13a mod with emerald ecu and CR g/box 2- Drop an MG 160 VVC in and emerald ecu 3- Drop in a 111s VVC engine/cr box & emerald. Which one and why would you say might be best for me. I might look to 170bhp eventually. After that I'd look at other engines most likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex B Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Option 2/3 are viable but I'd personally scrap the VVC system as it's a faff. However if you wish to keep this you'll need either a k3 or k6 ecu. My car has had a mgf trophy lump dropped in and I've fitted solid cams and VVC blank kit. Getting mapped next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve J Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 As above you don't want the vvc mechanism but Dave can build a decent high powered k series. Cheaper to get where you want in one hit than lots of small upgrades over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sundaydriver Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Ah, why no love for the VVC , had reliability issues ? Am I getting mixed up, the 135 has a 'second cam' that kicks in , is that a non VVC ? I'm still researching .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex B Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 The 135 has ever so slightly hotter cams and a tiny bit of porting over the standard 120bhp car. It isn't VVC. VVC is fine when working however very fiddle to have timed up right and IMHO too many bits to go wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanB Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 vvc is also 15kg heavier engine. It's taller too with the extra weight on top where you can really do without it. I would get kiwirog or DVA to do me a big valve ported head first. Then fit it. That will probably give you 15bhp on it's own (nearly 10 percent). Then cams and verniers to time them properly. Then dth throttle bodies and emerald map-able management. That should get you 190 bhp, maybe more. If you go beyond 155 bhp stronger pistons are recommended and I would want the whole lot balanced with a lightweight flywheel. You will also need an oil cooler and a reasonable exhaust system. On the other hand you could just learn to love it as it is! I think the close ratio box is a great idea even if you leave the engine standard btw - and while you're at it put a light flywheel on. Also, you will go quicker by putting cl rc5+ brake pads on than you would by finding another 30 horses imo. Food for thought... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanS1 Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Get yourself a EU3 (160VVC) engine, give it Kiwirog to port the head and check and balance the bottom end. Fit some cams,vernier, Emerald and keep the single throttle body for good torque. This is what the Elise Trophy and cup guys run in the race cars. Either way phone Kiwirog (Sabreheads) and discuss options. He will not spend money for the sake of it. However have some time spare for the conversation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve J Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 And for the wait for him to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanS1 Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 I will be picking mine up end of next week from Rog. I contacted him originally mid July to talk about what was needed. I can't complain in the time taken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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