ALCHBY Posted May 17, 2006 Posted May 17, 2006 Anyone any info on changing a wheel bearing & track end Rod ? Thanks, Alan
ro66ie Posted May 22, 2006 Posted May 22, 2006 Anyone any info on changing a wheel bearing & track end Rod ? Thanks, Alan will be changing one in 2 weeks on my s1 so i let u know afterwards lol ro66ie
Phil S1 Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Anyone any info on changing a wheel bearing & track end Rod ? Thanks, Alan Someone I know is doing their wheel bearings at the moment so here's some info I dug out for him. General consensus is to use the Timken bearing and NOT the QH one. Hope it's of some use to you The part number is TIMKEN JRM3938A and the cheapest place so far seems to be in Scotland....see the bottom of the page, although Eliseparts seem reasonable and also sell the circlips and nuts to suit. You might be able to find a local motorfactor possibly. Some suggest replacing the whole hub (for alloy ones) to save the aggro of pressing the bearings in and out. links: SJ Sportscars £33.50 + vat... http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandacce...g&Submit=search TADTS £30.64 + vat... http://www.tadts.com/shop/index.html Bell and Colvill £53.93 + vat!... http://www.bell-colvill.co.uk/LotusShop/De...&Id=A111C6002F# eliseparts £31.95 + vat... http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?m...products_id=313 Hangar 111 Don't know...you'll need to phone :-) Extracts from the British Cars BBS archives: Geary , Beds, [email protected] Just to confirm we now only sell OE bearings at £34.95 + vat (as we had quality contol issues with generic ones) but that DOES include 2 new circlips and a new nut (rears) Lotus charge a £3.90 each for the circlips and around £10 for the nut (nearly died when I bought one withpout asking price). Bruce is right there is no such thing as a steel front upright on a mk1 and Rob is also correct, the steels do not require heating to remove the bearing just a 5 tonne press ideally. Cheers Geary ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Posted 21 May 2004 at 11:34:37 UK time rob e, http://www.lotuspage.8m.com chris - i would seriously consider replacing the whole upright instead of just the bearing. the bearing is a bitch to get out and the new upright isn't that expensive - 68 for a front alu type upright. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Johnny Hayward Azure RS-150, Hayton, Cumbria Does anyone know the part no for a rear bearing please. Or what to ask for from a motorfactor to get an equivalent one ? Cheers johnny Posted 10 February 2004 at 13:03:21 UK time Pete Tomson, sale, [email protected] QH Part number QWB661 Posted 10 February 2004 at 13:05:31 UK time Paul Tyrrell, London & Ipswich, paul.tyrrell@tadtsDOTcom Johnny, I assume you mean wheel bearing? If so the front and rear are the same part number - A111C6002F. RaceSpeed is quoting £49.87+VAT each. They are actually Timken JRM3938A items so your local factors should be able to match that up. I think they're from a Montego as well but not sure about that. Be a bit careful of 'copies' of bearings. I've measured some from different sources and they rarely are an exact match for the real item. Given the amount of time and hassle involved in changing it I think its best to go for a 'real' one. I can supply them (genuine Timken bearings) for £35 inc VAT. Mail me if you're interested. Cheers, Paul. Posted 10 February 2004 at 13:57:26 UK time ADRIAN, SOUTHCOST, [email protected] Hi johnny If you need some i also have a few spare sets myself. They are the Timken tapper roller ones not the RHP ball versions. As Paul said, do make sure they are Timken ones. As they are a tapper roller type which is much stronger than the ball bearing ones which are fitted to metros 90>. Although a motor factor should be able to sell you a front kit for a montego 86 which should contain the Timken ones. If needed mail me for price Adrian Posted 11 February 2004 at 01:44:33 UK time Andy W 111s, Yorkshire so the fronts are the same as the rears ? Andy Posted 11 February 2004 at 09:52:34 UK time ADRIAN, SOUTHCOST, [email protected] Andy Yes front and rear on elises are the same. Adrian Posted 11 February 2004 at 09:52:50 UK time Paul Tyrrell, London & Ipswich, paul.tyrrell@tadtsDOTcom Andy, Yup! Although the rear wheel bearings don't wear anything like as quickly as the fronts. Cheers, Paul. Posted 11 February 2004 at 10:43:49 UK time Johnny Hayward Azure RS-150, Hayton, Cumbria Thanks all I have a try at getting it locally if not I get in touch with you Pual and Adrian. Cheers Johnny Posted 11 February 2004 at 12:15:38 UK time Rob Clarke, Gloucestershire, United Kingdom - http://home.btconnect.com/Elisesport/ Paul Just a side topic, I always thought that the bearings were taper...but after a heated argument with the old chap (been a mechanic all his life) he said they were parallel. This is because you wouldn't be able to tighten up taper bearings to the recommended 205Nm as they wouldn't rotate at all. The last bearing I replace, 4k ago has just died but that was very tight when fitted....starting to worry that the information from Lotus is wrong regarding the torque amount or just the bearings are not in fact taper.....confused...I will be! ) Rob Posted 11 February 2004 at 12:23:30 UK time Rob Clarke, Gloucestershire, United Kingdom - http://home.btconnect.com/Elisesport/ Ok, ignore that comment, the manual calls is a dual-taper roller bearing....I didn't think bearings could be so complicated ) Posted 11 February 2004 at 17:35:11 UK time Johnny Hayward Azure RS-150, Hayton, Cumbria Thanks again I managed to get the Timken JRM3938A for £30 inc VAT from my local parts shop. Posted 11 February 2004 at 18:32:32 UK time Bruce, Cheshire, http://www.med-reg.co.uk [email protected] I buy the bearings in the uprights - quicker and easier. cheers Posted 11 February 2004 at 18:55:31 UK time Andy W 111s, Yorkshire what did you ask for Johnny ? the part No Timken JRM3938A or the wheel bearing for the Elise ? Andy Posted 12 February 2004 at 11:08:52 UK time Rob Clarke, Gloucestershire, United Kingdom - http://home.btconnect.com/Elisesport/ Bruce, how do you push out the hub? Posted 12 February 2004 at 11:10:08 UK time Andy W 111s, Yorkshire ""I buy the nearings in the uprights - quicker and easier."" how much are they from the dealer then ? i take it they are a dealer only part Andy Posted 12 February 2004 at 11:44:19 UK time Rob Clarke, Gloucestershire, United Kingdom - http://home.btconnect.com/Elisesport/ Andy About £70 IIRC Posted 12 February 2004 at 12:58:26 UK time Bruce, Cheshire, http://www.med-reg.co.uk [email protected] Rob - I use a press and a long socket. The inner race usually comes off on it, which I then attack with an angle grinder and smack with a chisel - they're very brittle, so then come off. cheers Posted 12 February 2004 at 13:08:05 UK time Johnny Hayward Azure RS-150, Hayton, Cumbria Andy I asked for the Timken JRM3938A. Bruce, "I buy the bearings in the uprights - quicker and easier" What do you mean by that ? Do you mean the hub, as I thought that they no longer made the ali ones for the rear ? Posted 12 February 2004 at 14:36:44 UK time Paul Tyrrell, London & Ipswich, paul.tyrrell@tadtsDOTcom Bruce, That's weird - I use a floor press and I've never yet had the bearing come apart on me!! So far the hub has always pressed out no problem! Johnny, You got a pukka Timken JRM3938A for £30 inc VAT? I don't suppose you'd like to drop me a mail with the name/address/phone number of the place you got it from? That is _very_ cheap for a proper item. Cheers, Paul. Posted 12 February 2004 at 15:01:56 UK time Bruce, Cheshire, http://www.med-reg.co.uk [email protected] I agree on both counts Paul - I've never done one where it didn't come out on the hub! Johnny - info to me too please! Posted 12 February 2004 at 17:06:19 UK time Johnny Hayward Azure RS-150, Hayton, Cumbria, [email protected] Bruce and Paul, It had TIMKEN JRM3938A written on the bearing like the one that was originally fitted did. The cost was £25.92 ex VAT which is £30.45 inc VAT Contact details are below. TMS MOTOR SPARES, Site 6 Durran Hill Ind Est Calisle CA1 3NQ TEL:01228 401888 FAX:01228 598767 Let me know if you need any more info.
ro66ie Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 Anyone any info on changing a wheel bearing & track end Rod ? Thanks, Alan will be changing one in 2 weeks on my s1 so i let u know afterwards lol ro66ie i (and a friend) changed track rod end and bearing last night...took us(him) about 4 hours..its easy enough,(he says lol) but you do need a press..cause the bloody thing is stuck in there well and good..i wouldnt attempt it without, u will also need a 50mm socket to help press it out with..the track rod end has 2 nuts, one is a lockin nut you need to undo this slightly b4 u try and take old one off..i got my bearing and track rod end from eliseparts..although the nut they suplied with the bearing was to big, but fortunatly the old one wasnt in to bad a state, so whether there are diferant sizes of bolt depending on year i dont know..i have a 99 t elise hope thats been of help steve
Fiona Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 Tons of good info on TADTS: http://www.tadts.com/tasks/Task10003/index.html
Black Swan Posted June 19, 2006 Posted June 19, 2006 Could not get link to tadts to work so followed the manual. A propper bu**er to get out so went to local engineer to press out and in. All OK my end. Then, just to cheer myself up I went to Stratstone, Leicester, bearing + clips about £70, ie twice Eliseparts and a total of £256 to let them do the whole job Peter
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