whitewedge Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Hi Guys Can anyone recommend a decent auto electrician in the east mids area? Got a starting problem on my Elise S2 2001 which I have now hit a brick wall on. I have bypassed the meta immob, replaced the multi function relay unit, checked all the fusses and earths, changed batterys in remote, it has a new car battery. When I turn the key to start the only thing I hear is one of the relays in MFRU clicking. Fuel pump not priming, I started the starter motor manually with a screwdriver, this in turns causes fuel to flow and the engine and it fires briefly, then stalls. Anybody have anymore ideas? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Start at the beginning. There is a permanent 12v supply on the large connections on the starter motor. The coil of the starter motor has a small spade connector on. This is what shuts the contacts to allow the starter motor to work. Is the spade connection on correctly and in good condition? Welcome to MLOC BTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil S1 Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Has the fuel pump packed in maybe? Did you hear it when you managed to get it to fire up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewedge Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Thanks for reply guys Martin: Yes I have removed spade connector and checked it, its good condition, this is how I manually started it by disconnecting the spade connector, put ignition on and bridged that connector with a screwdriver to the permanant 12v feed, it fires briefly then concks out. Phil: Fuel pump won't prime on ignition setting 2, but when I bridged the starter motor I disconected the fuel line before the fuel filter, and fuel is pumping through quickly. Looking back that could have been dangerous with the sparks from the screwdriver.. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 You need a decent multimeter then. Check there is not 12 vdc on the spade then? you will need to put the black lead on a good earth. Work your way back through the circuit from there. I dont have a circuit diagram to hand at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewedge Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Thanks Martin, bought a new clarke multimeter last week from machine mart, as old one was knackered, and already did that, there should be power there when cranking but zero. Earths all good too, getting the same reading when checking direct battery voltage and checking battery positive to engine earths. I bought a used MRFU to and was the same, I have taken apart the MRFU and checked the four relays with a 9v battery, they all open. The car has been off the road in my garage with engine out for the last five years (don't ask!!) Everything was working fine before, car has only covered 21k and is in top shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Have you checked the inertia button is not tripped? I will have a look at a wiring diagram when im not at work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewedge Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Yes I have, I have also bridged the terminals incase it was faulty, but to no avail. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 How have you bypassed the immobiliser? It cuts the supply between the engine control module and the starter motor coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewedge Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Bridged the two furthest end terminals on the female side of the plug. I get the same results with the immob bypassed or in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Im certain there are always at least 2 circuits that an immobiliser breaks. Reconnect the imobiliser and try this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewedge Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Thanks for the video however I have an early S2 sports tourer which used the Meta alarm and immob system, as did the 340r. From around feb 2002 onwards the cobra alarm/immob was introduced. I only have the one button on my remote, which is incorporated in the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 As i thought the Meta breaks 2 circuits http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/technical/re-coding-meta-alarms/lotus-elise.html If you only have 1 wire in as a bypass you have not bypassed it completely? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewedge Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Thanks for link Martin, I thought me bridging the two connections on the female plug so should have bypassed it completely. Will look into this tomorrow as really tired now. Thanks for all your help today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Just had a look at the wiring diagram. I will pm you 're the bypass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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