Rear Brake Pad And Caliper Question

[ryan.wilkinson]

I have just tried to change the pads on my S2. Fronts easy (apart from now needing buffer pads to stop the clunking at low speed), rears...well all I can say is that the service manual should be filed under "Fiction".

 

I can remove the pins holding the pads in place but not for life nor money can I find enough room to remove the inboard pad. This then lead to me having to reinsert the outboard pad which then didnt fit because I could wind the piston back in and aaaaarrrgggghhhhh ensued.

 

My only bright idea is to remove the lower bolt holding the caplier in place which may allow me to swivel the caplier up allowing me to free the pad.

 

Has anyone overcome this problem an easier way???????

[AndyD]

I have just tried to change the pads on my S2.  Fronts easy (apart from now needing buffer pads to stop the clunking at low speed), rears...well all I can say is that the service manual should be filed under "Fiction".

 

I can remove the pins holding the pads in place but not for life nor money can I find enough room to remove the inboard pad.  This then lead to me having to reinsert the outboard pad which then didnt fit because I could wind the piston back in and aaaaarrrgggghhhhh ensued.

 

My only bright idea is to remove the lower bolt holding the caplier in place which may allow me to swivel the caplier up allowing me to free the pad.

 

Has anyone overcome this problem an easier way???????

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

If you have the outboard pad out of the caliper then the body should slide when pushed inwards ( caliper is floating on two pins )

[Steve J]

You need to remove the top caliper bolt (nut on the inside of the caliper). This will allow you to swing the outside bit of the caliper back towards the rear of the car. You can then slide the old outside pad out.

Push the caliper in and you can then get the inside pad out too.

 

The tricky bit is then winding back the piston to allow enough room for the new pads.

You'll need a pair of thin nosed pliars with narrow handles to do the winding back.

 

( : ) The piston will have two holes which you can put the pliars into then rotate and push to wind back. BE CAREFUL YOU DON'T SLIP AND PUNCTURE THE RUBBER SLEAVE AROUND THE PISTON!!

 

Re-assemble as reverse.

 

There should be a guide with pictures on SELOC Elise FAQs, but for some reason I can't access it at the moment

 

Where do you live? May get someone to give you a hand if they live near you.

[Mark H]

This will help, http://www.elisenet.com/BrakePads.htm

 

As will Dots and Fergs Elise FAQ when it comes back up.

 

http://www.elise-faq.info

 

Here is the google cached version:

 

http://66.102.9.104/search?q=cache:oMA3Ank...lient=firefox-a

[ryan.wilkinson]

Cheers gents, very useful.

 

I will finish it up this week.

 

One final point, would you normally need buffer pads on the rears as well as the fronts?

 

By the way, now based in Ravenstone near Ashby.

[Steve J]

Would be easier if you updated your profile

[Mark H]

Done it for you

[AndyD]

Cheers gents, very useful.

 

I will finish it up this week.

 

One final point, would you normally need buffer pads on the rears as well as the fronts?

 

By the way, now based in Ravenstone near Ashby.

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NO - the pads are located on the caliper so cant rattle up and down