wilber Posted December 11, 2008 Posted December 11, 2008 Anybody any info on leaky windows. I have a S2 elise that leaks water in both sides and soaks the door panels ( suede ). I have read about adjusting the windows by adjusting the screws under the door panel, is this a tricky job or easy. I also have it booked in under warranty for the heater not getting too warm, is this usual of the Elise or should it be blowing hot air ? Any info muchly appreciated....
halfpenny Posted December 11, 2008 Posted December 11, 2008 Anybody any info on leaky windows. I have a S2 elise that leaks water in both sides and soaks the door panels ( suede ). I have read about adjusting the windows by adjusting the screws under the door panel, is this a tricky job or easy. I also have it booked in under warranty for the heater not getting too warm, is this usual of the Elise or should it be blowing hot air ? Any info muchly appreciated.... Welcome Wilber. The leaking windows thing and adjusting the screws is easy - if I can do it with no mechanical or DIY skill at all, anyone can ! The wiki entry here can help you. To get the windows to angle more towards the car, turn the screw clockwise, to angle the windows away from the car turn them anti-clockwise. Worked for me anyway. Re the heater, this is a common fault on earlier S2's right up until some of the later built 111R's. I think it's to do with the positioning of the heater electrics and resistors, they get damp and go pop, therefore no hot air - thats my understanding of it anyway. Try the search facility on this forum - There was a thread on here a month or so ago with regard to someone getting this fixed for a few hundred pounds - which is very cheap as the whole fron clam has to be removed to get to the heater and resistor pack ! Good luck. Steven
wilber Posted December 11, 2008 Author Posted December 11, 2008 Welcome Wilber. The leaking windows thing and adjusting the screws is easy - if I can do it with no mechanical or DIY skill at all, anyone can ! The wiki entry here can help you. To get the windows to angle more towards the car, turn the screw clockwise, to angle the windows away from the car turn them anti-clockwise. Worked for me anyway. Re the heater, this is a common fault on earlier S2's right up until some of the later built 111R's. I think it's to do with the positioning of the heater electrics and resistors, they get damp and go pop, therefore no hot air - thats my understanding of it anyway. Try the search facility on this forum - There was a thread on here a month or so ago with regard to someone getting this fixed for a few hundred pounds - which is very cheap as the whole fron clam has to be removed to get to the heater and resistor pack ! Good luck. Steven Thanks for the help halfpenny....
DunkHSP Posted December 11, 2008 Posted December 11, 2008 adjusting the window can help with leaks that are related to making a good seal along the roof line. if you have a leak where the window is gripped at the front of the door near the wing mirror this is harder to deal with in my experience. I always seem to get water running through where it makes a seal on the door frame. PITA!! If you find a sloution to this one I'll be interested to know.
Smiley Chenit Posted December 11, 2008 Posted December 11, 2008 Unfortunately most elise windows do leak even with hardtop. I've adjusted mine several times and they still leak a bit (and have to be adjusted when swapping from hard to softtop as well). One thing to do though is not adjust too much each time without checking the door closes properly as might cause damage if over adjusting then try the door. I'm now resigned to always carrying a tea towel in the car behind the seats in case I get caught whilst out in the rain... oh n law of sod it's the drivers side that mainly leaks on mine!
Gary ZBJ Posted December 11, 2008 Posted December 11, 2008 Rather than adjust the window, I moved the Striker pins in slightly on mine, seemed to cure 99% of the problem
G Posted December 11, 2008 Posted December 11, 2008 havent heard that before, but makes sense and worth a go. i adjusted window angle inward and mine dont leak at all now. On the soft top, it really needs coating properly to stop the sil showers. my hardtop has never leaked. Rather than adjust the window, I moved the Striker pins in slightly on mine, seemed to cure 99% of the problem
wilber Posted December 11, 2008 Author Posted December 11, 2008 Excuse me for being stupid ! But where are the striker pins and how do you adjust them ???????
G Posted December 11, 2008 Posted December 11, 2008 look like these, where the door lock shuts onto them. i guess you need to slacken them off and push them toward the inside of the car a little, should pull the door and window into its seal a bit more..ive never tried this . http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?m...products_id=730 Excuse me for being stupid ! But where are the striker pins and how do you adjust them ???????
jimbo07g41 Posted December 11, 2008 Posted December 11, 2008 The 111s has the later heater which should be much better. If the resistor pack goes you have no fan blower or limited fan blower speeds. The actuator can also fail which means it will get stuck in one heater position. So if you can switch your blower on and you can change the speed your resistor pack is ok. To test the actuator move the hot/cold dial from hot to cold and you should have noticeable temp differences. On my 111s my heating is very good and I recently fitted a new upgraded resistor pack after the heater failed. If you have a warranty defo get them to put the upgraded resistor pack in and replace the actuator. You can not get this done on the 111s with the clam on if you have air con.
wilber Posted December 12, 2008 Author Posted December 12, 2008 Yes the heater blows 3 different speeds, but when you turn the knob to hot it just blows cool air. Will my garage warranty cover me for the upgradeed resistor and actuator...???? One other thing does anybody know the size of the front and rear speakers in the 111s 2004 model as i am going to replace them as the other ones are shite. Also any advice on make etc....
Gary ZBJ Posted December 12, 2008 Posted December 12, 2008 Exactly what I did, just slacken them off slightly and tap them towards the inside of the car. No danger from slackening them off too much, although you will have to check the height of them if they drop down, the nut is captive so won't fall out look like these, where the door lock shuts onto them. i guess you need to slacken them off and push them toward the inside of the car a little, should pull the door and window into its seal a bit more..ive never tried this . http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?m...products_id=730
andywolf Posted March 25, 2009 Posted March 25, 2009 Welcome Wilber. The leaking windows thing and adjusting the screws is easy - if I can do it with no mechanical or DIY skill at all, anyone can ! The wiki entry here can help you. To get the windows to angle more towards the car, turn the screw clockwise, to angle the windows away from the car turn them anti-clockwise. Worked for me anyway. Good luck. Steven Are the striker Pins the parts that fit the roof to the car?
lummo Posted March 25, 2009 Posted March 25, 2009 Are the striker Pins the parts that fit the roof to the car? No, the Striker Pins are the part of the door lock that is attached to the body of the car, that the door lock latches on to. By moving them slightly inwards towards the inside of the car, it pulls the door tighter shut. Never tried it myself though - mine doesn't leak 'cos it never goes out in the rain!
andywolf Posted March 25, 2009 Posted March 25, 2009 No, the Striker Pins are the part of the door lock that is attached to the body of the car, that the door lock latches on to. By moving them slightly inwards towards the inside of the car, it pulls the door tighter shut. Never tried it myself though - mine doesn't leak 'cos it never goes out in the rain! Oh Right. That makes more sense. I will take a look at that in a bit!
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.