Popular Post PaulH Posted July 21, 2025 Author Popular Post Posted July 21, 2025 Episode 8 Continuing from the previous episode the filler was rubbed down with the same piece of 120 grit paper. Here's the result: Below are a series of photos that attempt to show the curved surface to attempt to give the result so far: On with a little more filler: And again rubbing down with the same piece of 120 grit which is now much less aggressive than a new piece. I've applied a little more filler to a few low areas. I'm gauging where the low areas are by feel, it is remarkable what you can feel with the flat of your hand (a clean and dusty hand so it doesn't transfer any grease from the skin), and also by using a bright lamp at an shallow angle to the surface. An alternative method that I would use for a larger panel repair is to use a guide coat. You can create a guide coat by using any coloured paint from a spray can, ideally black. Spray the repaired area with a fairly heavy dusting of paint. Once dry rub off the guide coat with sand paper. The low areas will remain black so it becomes clear if more flatting is required. Hopefully when the last application of filler is rubbed down, I'll used finer and finer paper to get rid of the sanding marks and then it will be ready for an application of primer. Let's see tomorrow. 2 Quote
DeanB Posted July 22, 2025 Posted July 22, 2025 Amazing. The care and attention - and skill - here is incredible. I'm sure there are plenty of pro bodyshops that don't do work to this standard. 1 Quote
Popular Post PaulH Posted July 22, 2025 Author Popular Post Posted July 22, 2025 Episode 9 In the previous post I said I was rubbing down with 120 grit. My mistake I was using 180 grit. I rubbed down with 180 grit again and I've decided not to apply more filler. The good news is that the car is going to a very professional body shop once this repair is finished to have the sills and front vallance painted, so there will be opportunity for further improvement. I then rubbed down with these grades to remove all the sanding marks, 240, 320, 400 & 600. All the rubbing down is done dry. It's very important not to use any water when preparing fibreglass for paint, to avoid any chance of moisture getting in. Then I masked the car. Probably a little over the top but I wanted to avoid any overspray settling on the car. Here's what is looks like after the 600 grit. I've masked very close to where I'll spray so there will be an obvious edge to the paint, but I'm not concerned about that because the complete sill will be painted later. So they will rub down the complete sill including this repair. The reason for putting on a primer, and I plan to add a layer of lacquer, is to protect the repair from any moisture when travelling to the body shop. These are the cans of primer and lacquer. Vacuumed up to get rid of all the dust. I used this mask. It's not a chemical mask which would be better, but it didn't take too long and a got out of the garage as quickly as I could. A quick wipe with a tack rag to get rid of dust. On with the primer. This is after 2 layers. For those with a critical eye you'll see it's not perfect where the small horizontal ridge goes across the panel, but I expect the body shop to improve this. Other than this I'm pretty satisfied with the outcome. Next step is a layer of lacquer once the primer has had a few hours to dry. 3 Quote
Elisemadray Posted July 23, 2025 Posted July 23, 2025 Absolutely Fantastic Paul. looks like your off to the moon next😁 1 Quote
Popular Post PaulH Posted July 23, 2025 Author Popular Post Posted July 23, 2025 (edited) Episode 10 A quick application of lacquer. This picture starts to give an idea of what the finished sill might look like. Here's what it looks like after it's dried and in the daylight. Of course the transition between the primer and the silver looks ridiculous. The body shop are painting all of the sill so they will rub it all back down. So away to the body shop soon. Just imagine the sharp intake of breath and the tuts 😅 It will be a while before we get to see if it really is a seamless repair. Edited July 23, 2025 by PaulH 6 Quote
DeanB Posted July 24, 2025 Posted July 24, 2025 It looks fabulous! Paul is such a perfectionist, as his Elan restoration proved - and why that Elan is now in one of the best classic car collections in the country. 1 Quote
Popular Post foxy76 Posted July 24, 2025 Popular Post Posted July 24, 2025 This has been a great post and it has inspired me to have a look at a few small repairs in my Elise that needs doing. Thanks for the detail and I look forward to seeing how it gets on at the body shop. 2 Quote
Popular Post DeanB Posted August 26, 2025 Popular Post Posted August 26, 2025 So here is the finished article. The sill was painted by Option1 at Bromsgrove. They also slightly re-profiled a small section (teeny) that Paul wasn't 100% happy with: 5 Quote
foxy76 Posted August 26, 2025 Posted August 26, 2025 You've got to be happy with that, looks great. For anyone thinking of repairs like this, What's the rough price breakdown, in terms of the bits you bought and how much the final professional bit cost? And what area did they actually spray? Quote
Phil Hutchins Posted August 26, 2025 Posted August 26, 2025 1 hour ago, DeanB said: So here is the finished article. The sill was painted by Option1 at Bromsgrove. They also slightly re-profiled a small section (teeny) that Paul wasn't 100% happy with: Nice work on both counts! Did we ever hear what caused the hole in the first place?! Quote
Popular Post DeanB Posted August 26, 2025 Popular Post Posted August 26, 2025 (edited) 2 hours ago, foxy76 said: You've got to be happy with that, looks great. For anyone thinking of repairs like this, What's the rough price breakdown, in terms of the bits you bought and how much the final professional bit cost? And what area did they actually spray? The new fibreglass rear sill section was £80 from Elise Spares (aka ES Motorsports). I think resin and matting plus primer and lacquer was fifty or sixty quid I can't remember (Paul may do). Paul put lacquer on to make sure no water got in before it was painted (my idea) but one of the guys at Option1 said the primer alone would have sealed it. Option1 charged me £350 to paint both sills but they were also doing a separate repair on the front at the same time which perhaps saved some labour on matching the colour and so on. It may well be more if you are only having the sills painted. Two new 'shark fin' protectors were about £35. I am very, very happy with it. Both Paul and Option1 did a fantastic job. The car looks lovely now. Edited August 26, 2025 by DeanB 3 Quote
Popular Post DeanB Posted August 26, 2025 Popular Post Posted August 26, 2025 (edited) I should add Option1 rubbed down, prepped and painted the entire sill sections - that extend up in front of the rear arches. They were both very badly stone-chipped. They bake the paint on in their big oven. They specialise in composite cars and had 5 or 6 other Lotuses in both when I dropped mine off and collected it. Edited August 27, 2025 by DeanB 2 Quote
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