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Hi,

Id like to introduce myself and my car, I'm Harry from Nottingham, I've been a member on here since a while and finally took the plunge and purchased a project Ruby Red S1 last year so I thought id add my build thread

I plan to use the car for the odd summer blast and sprinting.

It already has a few modifications like;

-Emerald k3
- Early KV6 throttle bodies
- 135 cams (i think)
- PTP head (Not sure of the full spec)
- Janspeed 4-2-1
- GAZ coilovers (replacing with Nitron)
- Retrim/Blinged up interior


Over the winter I'm planning a full strip and rebuild with some nice bits I'll try my best to keep this thread updated. brum.gif

Here's some pictures of the car when I collected it and a few trips out.

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First job to do was to remove all the horrendous stick on bling/chrome and remove the glued in carpet.

Taking the the carpet out it self was really easy, that easy in fact that it seems forgot to take any pictures tsk.gif , the glue that it left behind on the other hand was a massive ball ache, it had sticky back Velcro holding it in along the lengths of the sills and contact adhesive everywhere else. To say I had a headache after laying down under the footwell is an understatement.

I managed to break the sidelight switch removing the chrome ring from it but Dan from HPE managed to sort me another one out when I went to collect my Nitron's I bought off him (thanks very much Dan).

The other chrome bits were around the air vents these simply popped off.

I had to remove the carbon dash inserts to try and get rid of the yellowed heater panel which turned out to be the hardest ever task as you cant "pinch" in the inserts like you can with the standard ones so I ended up taking some of the grey off the dash top whoops, I'd like to replace the 2 smaller passenger side ones so I may replace the carbon ones with standard full length ones to get rid of the radio as I think its seems a little pointless having a radio in a competition car.

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I also removed the billet switches and replaced them with standard black ones which I think looks better

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More to come with the interior witch a smaller steering wheel, a set of genuine mats and either a full cage or a petty strut/'A' brace and eventually some Tillets.

 

Another job I wanted to look at was the heavy throttle pedal, the car has a set of early kv6 throttle bodies on so I thought it maybe them needing a strip and clean but I thought I'd check everything else related to the throttle and linkage too whilst I was at it.

First of all I assumed the Elise obligatory position upside down under the dash and took the linkage apart to my surprise the car has the Elise parts improved throttle linkage already fitted albeit poorly but it was there all the same. When I say it was fitted poorly I mean it had an M4 bolt through an M5 bearing which was not helping matter and creating 10-15mm of free play before the throttle did anything, not pleasant, Looking at the instructions on EP I think this is how it tells you fit it (strange).

I drilled the hole in the linkage out to 5mm and refitted it which improved it in the way that it now has no free play in the pedal, next up I disconnected the cable from the throttle bodies and operated it manual with my fingers and it moves easily with nothing connected which rules out the cable, so i set about removing the throttle bodies to strip and clean them, they are very stiff to move off the car, I think this may have something to do with the fact the spring is obviously originally designed for a kv6 and not to have 2 side by side so basically doubling the poundage of the springs.

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After stripping and rebuilding them and putting them back on the the car the throttle is still very heavy but it has improved some. Not sure what to do now to try and improve it maybe look at the cable routing or sell the throttles on and get a set of direct to head Jenvey's.

 

 

7/11/20 Update

So last weekend I thought id set about trying to remove the front clam to sort a multitude of problems out. Started as it meant to go on with the cable for the bonnet being sized so I had to remove the drivers wheel arch liner to release the catch, removing the arch liner brought me across the first bodge a lovely repair on the headlight plug with parcel tape beat.gif

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Ill sort that out with 2 new plugs when I put it back together.

The next major bodge I've come across were the stainless bolts for the front clam inside the wheel arch/door shut someone has kindly just tiger sealed a mild steel nut to the inside of the sill so need less to say they are now spinning, luckily I managed to remove the enough to take the clam off so my plan is to run a tank cutter through the front of the sill inside the wheel arch and make a stainless plate the same shape as the gasket under the clam with nuts welded to it and bond/rivet it to the inside of the sill which should sort the problem.

On to the next bodge once the clam was removed, this was to address the bonnet catching the clam when opening because the rivets were loose, but instead of drilling out the rivets and replacing them someone has kindly just crammed some tiger seal behind it tsk.gif

Clam removed
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Now with the battery and the heater removed I found yet another cock up someone hasn't connected the battery spill pipe back up so the battery has leaked and taken the anodising off the floor, I spent a few hours cleaning and protecting the floor of the compartment with all manor of products, protected with Acf13.

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A lot cleaner now

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Also cleaned, painted and acf13'd the bonnet catch

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Heater restoration

With the heater removed I found 3 of 6 little copper tangs that hold the resistors to the heater shroud sitting under the heater itself so they needed riveting back on.

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I started by stripping it all down, removing the plastic fan was a bit worrying the shaft was very tight I was praying it didn't break but managed to get it out in one piece luckily.

I stripped all the rust off with a wire brush on the grinder and drill, painted it with sating Hammerite spray so that's going to smell nice when it gets warm no.gif .

The strap that hold its all together had disintegrated so I'm going to repair that with some fabric webbing and a plastic buckle.

The finished blower

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Ill get it back in the car with stainless fixings after I've removed the pedal box and refurbished that.

Another nice thing from this weekend, i sold the VHPD KV6 throttle bodies and bought a set of QED Jenvey's as QED are around 5 mins from my work clp.gif

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07/01/2021 Update



Large update incoming, i really need to get used to uploading on a regular basis!

Since the last update a lot has happened I may of got a little carried away as you do with these things but hopefully it will all be worth it and i'll end up with a good usable car.

The last update was rebuilding the heater, since i have completely stripped the car of its suspension and running gear to get it all refurbished. I'm going to shot blast all the steel bits, have the yellow zinc plated and then powder coat afterwards, this meant that i obviously had to remove it all first.

This is what the front looked like before farm66_static_fkr_com_65535_50672539128_368a9a3c28_b.jpg

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image https://farm66.static.flickr.com/65535/50672539933_9c463d4e58_b.jpg not found

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I also wanted to rebuild/upgrade the pedal box too so i followed the wiki guide and set about removing it which was made much easier having already stripped most of the front of the car, I say easier it was still a massive twat of a job removing the 3 bolts nearest the heater flap housing I wont be rushing back to do it again anyway.

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A nicely broken throttle linkage/ return spring bracket, I've since remade that in stainless.

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I took the opportunity to remove the rack and rebuild it with bronze cups, new grease and gaiters etc.

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Much better, I did however forget top take any photos of that whatsoever whoops.

After that I started on the rear of the car, that's where i found a few horror stories. It looks as thought the alternator has been on fire at some point hence the shitty looking tin foil affair covering up the heat material, luckily it haunt burned the fibreglass behind or the car to the ground for that matter! it has however melted the timing belt rear cover which brings me on to the next part the engine that i was going to leave in and build a nice one over the year and drop it in next winter however curiosity got the better of me and I decided to strip it and have a look at what we had.

What we had is pretty much what the seller told me, however somethings he mentioned are a little suspect, first being "its had a recent head gasket replacement and new timing belt and water pump kit" when we stripped it the date stamp on the water pump and one of the plastic pulleys is 2013, in my eyes 7 years ago is not exactly recent when it comes to a timing belt since the mot in 2013 and me buying the car its done just over 20000 miles, again not exactly a small amount. I removed the head anyway (which is very nicely gas-flowed) I'm glad i did, measuring the liner heights revealed they were all below deck height so I'm now going all out and rebuilding it properly I will upload the spec in a separate update. In the mean time here is all the pictures bringing me up to date with where im at.

I should hopefully have the arms back by mid February.

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04/03/2021 UPDATE

Again I'm not very useful at updating as I go along so here is another large update with mainly pictures, really pleased with the progress, I have shot blasted all the suspension parts and steel brackets from the engine, had them zinc plated and then got them powder coated kindly arranged by HPE Automotive, I have then opted for a set of Dan's wishbone bearings.

I have also had the callipers and uprights blasted so they are now good as new, I'm just waiting for the uprights to come back from anodising and then I can get on with rebuilding the suspension.

I have also collected most of the bits for the engine just waiting for payday for the rest, I will update that with the full spec I have gone with when I have collected it all.

Anyway here is some pictures of the progress.

Crusty old bits
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4 12 hour days of blasting in a cabinet zz.gif
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After zinc plating
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After powder coating thumbsup.gif thumbsup.gif
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Bushes/ bearings fitted

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Calipers

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Uprights

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Heat insulation fitted

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Gauge holder made

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Seat fitted

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Pretty much up to date really, I am also on the look out for a Safety Devices A frame and petty bar if anyone has one?

 

17/04/2021 Update

Another long time since I last updated the thread but i have made some real progress since the last update. I have managed to get most of the front suspension fitted back on the car and i have got the engine built. I am saving up now for LSD/ATB and a set of Vibra-Technics engine mounts so I can can get my new B4BP back together and get the engine back in the car, I can the refit the rear subframe and the rear suspension.

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The final spec of the engine is;

Sabre heads VVC worked head
REC valves 35.5mm inlet & 28.5mm exhaust
Piper single valve springs
Piper BP285H cams
Piper VVC blanking kit
Piper Vernier pulleys
Westwood liners
Omega pistons
Max Speeding rods
MG Rover main bearings
Mahle Motorsport big end bearings
SAIC head gasket
Genuine gaskets everywhere else
Jenvey dth throttle bodies
Port matched throttle bodies
Bottom end balanced by Andrew Precision
Genuine oil pump modified as per DVA instructions
QED lightweight flywheel
QED 4 paddle clutch plate
QED clutch cover
Holy grail new VVC rear belt cover p.gif

B4BP gearbox
Some sort of LSD

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U2U Member Harry_orridge's garages ^
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Posted (edited)

Update 07/06/2021

Another decent update, this time I have managed to get a short ratio gearbox with new bearings glass bead blasted and a Quaife diff fitted.

I decided on Elise Parts engine mounts in the end so that meant I could get the engine back in and all the the rear subframe that I had powder coated back on and the majority of the rear suspension back on.

I have also decided to get rid of the fibreglass boot box because it means I can make a new divide between the engine bay and the boot out of aluminium, so I managed to get hold of a aluminium boot floor from Dan at HPE and he kindly lent me his boot closing/rear clam mounting panels to make a template from so I can modify the shape on the back edge and bend some up.

I'm now just waiting on some wheel bearings and I can get the car back down on its wheel, feel like I'm on the home straight now shouldn't be long before I can get it back up and running.

I have also fitted an electric water pump and a PRRT to try and help the cooling system the best I can, the water pump will be switched by the ECU. I then set about de-pinning all the plugs on the engine loom to re wrap it with some new loom braiding and heat shrink which looks loads better.


Anyway here's some pictures.

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Edited by harry_orridge
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Posted (edited)

Blimey Harry, that is truly EPIC! :notworthy2:

Don't panic but you've only got four and a bit weeks left to get it finished!  :poke: 

EDIT: You should talk to Daveb99, the two of you have lots to talk about :)

The Mustard Yellow Elise S1 Refresh Thread - Page 6 - General Talk - Midlands Lotus Owners Club (MLOC)

 

Edited by duncx
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2 hours ago, duncx said:

Blimey Harry, that is truly EPIC! :notworthy2:

Don't panic but you've only got four and a bit weeks left to get it finished!  :poke: 

EDIT: You should talk to Daveb99, the two of you have lots to talk about :)

The Mustard Yellow Elise S1 Refresh Thread - Page 6 - General Talk - Midlands Lotus Owners Club (MLOC)

 

Thank you very much 😀

 

I can't wait to get it finished, I wish it was finished in time for Lotus in the Peaks, I'm going to come and have a look at some cars any way even if the car isn't finished 👍

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On 08/06/2021 at 17:02, Luke Seagrave said:

It looks great, and clearly a lot of blood sweat and tears have gone into that rebuild.

Thank you, plenty of time and effort gone in to it. I’m excited to get out and use it. 

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15/06/2021 Update

More progress made over this last week, I finally managed to order some Timken wheel bearings and Dan kindly pressed them back in for me with the freshly zinc plated drive flanges, this meant I could get the hubs fitted and finally get the car back on to it's wheels. It's now easier to work on because it moves.

I think it looks really good, much better than the crusty mess when I first got the car.


I'm on the lookout for a set of Elise Trophy spec Rota slipstream or Speedline 5 spoke wheels if anyone has a set they would part with?

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Nicely going back together

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I also removed the splitter (originally to repair) but I think it looks better with out it? puzzled.gif

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Fingers crossed I'm aiming to get it finished for the end of August all being well.

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