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richbk

Onlins set up exige

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So 9 weeks after sending my ohlins to cornering force in Harrogate for re furbishment, they are back, but alas the company did not note down the amount of compression my springs were under using the 2 nuts on the threaded collar at the top of the unit. I assume in my numpty lack of knowledge position this also impacts the ride height ? The impact of this is that having set them to equal ish levels all around, my front is riding about 25/30mm higher than before and the rears are "chattering" as though the springs are some how loose to move up and down.

is anyone else running ohlins on an early s2 exige or a lowered yota Elise (dr h ??)who could measure in mm from the top of the thread to the top of the locking nut on the fronts and rears so I can compare mine .?

 

on the plus side the car is so much more supple and damped on our horrid roads, and in my advancing years I have softened off the suspension a few clicks so save my aging back ,,

 

as as ever advice, direction or banter all great fully received. 

I have it on good authority that an orange Jack and 3mm Allan key are possibly required so Scatty you can come and help 😂

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Ive got spare Allen key and a 9mm socket.

Talk about your lucky day Rich, il be round in an hour.

im sure my gurus, luke, Rozzer and Alex will be able to help.

 

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If the rears are rattling with the weight of the car on them something is really wrong? Do you have the fronts on the front and the rears on the rear as i presume they are different lengths. ( never had Ohlins )

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Hi Martin, yes different lengths so only fit 1 way. 

Maybe just bedding in again on rears but didn't sound like this when 1st fitted. 

Might have to have a run over to Burton to see young Gavin . 

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Posted (edited)

Just a thought & maybe what Martin meant !

Could the front springs which are shorter ( they are on Nitron's not 100% sure on Ohlin's ) have been fitted to the rear shocks & visa versa ?

Edited by russelld

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You need to put the car on a flat (are as flat as you can). Then measure the actual ride heights for each corner. Below is a link some very basic information.

https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Ride_height

You need to alter the spring seat height so that you get the desired ride heights that you are looking for. Once you achieve this then see if you have any of the issues you have stated. 

If you didn't know the exact heights prior then you will also need the geo setting up afterwards as the ride heights do effect camber and toe settings. 

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Bloody hell, I am so disappointed by this. Am i being unrealistic to think that the refurbisher should have taken measures and re applied them after the re curb ??

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Much better to set the ride heights, etc. once the parts are back on, rather than simply resetting the springs/dampers to their previous length & preload. Any variance in stiction pre- and post-refurb would put the original settings out (even if only slightly) and would also require that you were certain to refit the dampers on the same sides they came off.

Assuming you hadn't adjusted the ride height from standard, then simply reset to standard heights front & back (they're possibly in the handbook?). If you had adjusted your ride heights at some time then you'd surely have made a note of the change?

Once they're back to correct, see how it drives then fine-tune accordingly. If you're worried about the effect on other elements of the geometry, then you can either get someone to measure & set up or string it up yourself.

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On 23/06/2018 at 16:24, richbk said:

Bloody hell, I am so disappointed by this. Am i being unrealistic to think that the refurbisher should have taken measures and re applied them after the re curb ??

I think you are mate, being honest.  With this type of damper (ie a very good one) i think the company doing the refurbishing will expect that every time they are removed the refitting will also include a full geo.

These are racing dampers, and for all decent racers and race teams this is standard stuff.

I honestly don't think it would occur to them that a customer spending that much money on dampers wouldn't be having the ride height (including cornerweights) properly set up.

If i were you i would book it in to PJS to get them to do a full geo inc cornerweights with you sat in the car, boot empty and half a tank of juice. 

 

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Agreed Dean, they are a specialist damper, and should be set up accordingly, but they were set excactly as i wanted them with a full geo 18 months ago prior to going to refurb. To send them back with the collar nuts spinning on 2 of them and tightened down to no specific measure just smacks of "that will do" mentality. Its off to a specialist and still no driving in 2018 then :(

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59 minutes ago, richbk said:

Agreed Dean, they are a specialist damper, and should be set up accordingly, but they were set excactly as i wanted them with a full geo 18 months ago prior to going to refurb. To send them back with the collar nuts spinning on 2 of them and tightened down to no specific measure just smacks of "that will do" mentality. Its off to a specialist and still no driving in 2018 then :(

Do you not have the settings from the geo that was done? In which case it's a simple task to set up your ride heights, preload, compression & rebound to exactly where they were before the refurb.

As Dean said, Ohlins are a high-end Motorsport product that are designed to be adjusted to optimise set-up.

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11 hours ago, richbk said:

Agreed Dean, they are a specialist damper, and should be set up accordingly, but they were set excactly as i wanted them with a full geo 18 months ago prior to going to refurb. To send them back with the collar nuts spinning on 2 of them and tightened down to no specific measure just smacks of "that will do" mentality. Its off to a specialist and still no driving in 2018 then :(

Rich it doesn't need to be off the road. Gav at Unit 4 can get your ride heights more or less right. That will be fine for the summer. You can have the full geo done in the winter at your leisure.

Or you could ask Jody - he can do a full geo, he's made his own flat patch and rig. If he has time he'll do it for you cheap I'm sure.

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Cheers guys, its just getting me down, the weathers fab and the car is off the road, as i am not confident to drive it how it should be unless its A1.

I have set the bump and rebound to a more road friendly setting, and even though ride heights aren't correct i can feel a noticeable improvement in ride already, so the project has been worthwhile

I will drop jody a line, although dont want to impose on his good nature and time, and as you say Gav is always there to save the day.

 

richbk

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Richbk

When I sent my Nitrons for a refurb I carefully measured the collar positions with callipers (and counted the turns) so I was able to set them back.  Nitron returned them lose and I wound them to my rough positions.  

If I ever get round to fitting them again I can set the ride height where I had them before. 

Too late for you now, I do understand your frustration, I have been there with Lotus gear cables. 

 

Keith

 

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Ride height adjustment isn't difficult so, if you have a decent flat area (eg. garage floor) then you can easily do it yourself and learn a new skill!

I cut two lengths of hard wood - or you could use metal rod/bar/angle, anything that will stand up vertically - to the correct lengths for front & rear ride height.

Settle the car, loaded, on the ground and use the blocks to gauge the error at both ends. Adjust the spring collars at one end (so both fronts or rears, but not both) then resettle the car and check with blocks.

Once one end is right, repeat the process at the other. Recheck all four corners, fine-tune as necessary and go out for a run, rechecking & adjusting if necessary afterwards.

Simple...and very rewarding to achieve!

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