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Nlc - Lister Bell Stratos Build Thread

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Solution found. Custom valve retention caps. £12 each. 2-3 weeks.

ITBs on and changed the bolts holding the coil adapters on to low cap heads from button heads Fuel rails back from being coated in a titanium colour ceramic coating (not full zircotec type stuf

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I'm assuming the right-hand edge is the end of the hose and the cut you made to open in up is the one along the top, in the picture.

To me that looks like something sharp has dug in and cut it. Playing devil's advocate for a moment (and only because this is likely to be the first question you get asked by the supplier!) - is there a burr of the end of the tube/fitting it was on?

Alternatively - if they cut the hoses on a mandrel - then it possibly happened then. Doesn't look like a manufacturing fault as it's too deep & ragged.

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A bur on the tube would be an obvious things to think but there is nothing on there at all. It's a bit pitted in places but not sharp edges or burrs at all. This is a really deep cut. It's a 4.5mm wall and gone through all of it except the very thin outer wrap.

Also I'd expect it to be all the way to the edge from sliding it onto the tube if it was that sort of burr.

Who knows! New one arrived this morning son can try another re-fill of the system this weekend. Must be getting close to number 10.....

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Bugger all the report really. So as I've been a bit bored I've been dreaming up stuff to add...

Latest 'lightbulb' moment was a coolant level float switch. Header tank is aluminium and has no sight glass so you have no way of telling what the coolant level is without taking the cap of and looking inside.

So I bought a stainless steel float switch:


Turns out to be exactly the right length to detect when the coolant level with the bottom 'crease' in the tank, which is about as low as you'd want to go.


The float is normally closed and breaks the circuit when the level raises about a certain point. The idea is to have a warning light on the dash - light this but yellow rather than red


When the coolant drops below the level set, it makes the circuit and lights the light.

As the coolant system is still drained I simply took the tank off, drilled a hole in it and fitted the float switch. Luckily The float just fitted through the neck - and I mean Just! Dowty seal on the underside and it simply bolts on from the top.




Tested it with a muti-meter on continuity setting and a jug of water. Works really well. Just need to run wires to the dash now.

Still planning for wiring loom fit and first start next Monday.

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Still dry!


Finally started the car today for the first time. Spend all day having a new wiring loom fitted and finally got it fired it up at about 7pm. It's not been mapped yet and was started from scratch without even a base map so it wasn't ever going to be a sweet sounding lump.....

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As you can hear it's making a bad noise cry.gif

This noise isn't apparent on turnover, and was there for the moment we started the car the first time. Only ran it for about 30 secs and stopped it due to the noise. This a is fully rebuilt engine that hasn't been run for 12 months since it was rebuilt. We removed the aux belt and started it up again to see if it was the alternator, A/C compressor or the pulleys on the belt. But it wasn't, it was still there.

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Pretty nasty! And if I was asked I might suggest a knackered bottom end but it's only run for about 2 mins in total and the noise was from the start. Sounds as though the pulley is hitting something but seems to be missing everything.

2.5 years to get the this stage and now this wall.gif . I hope to fuck the engine doesn't need to come out. (.gif . Can't drop the sump without removing the engine.


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Not tappets. Took my time to ensure there was good oil pressure in the heads through lots of turning over before the first start and the tappets were pretty much silent from the start. It's also dead obvious, when you are actually next to the car, that it's from the crank pulley area.

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From the second video the noise doesn't start immediately after the engine runs. Having had an Alfa (although not a V6, admittedly) they are prone to odd engine noises. If you're certain it isn't from the top end then try the cambelt tensioner. This is just up and left of the crank, viewed from the pulley end.

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Talked to him this morning and sent the videos over. Will see what he says. All amicable as he's a decent guy.

Discussed the possibility of a spun bearing on the crank. As he says, nothing is impossible but it's very very unlikely. Noise started immediately on running the engine and the oil pressure is still very high (well over 5 bar cold).

One other possibility suggested is that the cambelt drive gear on the crank (which sits behind the crank pulley) is loose on the key that locates it. Will need to whip off the crank pulley to check this. If it's not this then I'm stumped.

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