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Sundaydriver

New Rad Needed - Elise S1 Std K Series

20 posts in this topic

Hi,

So I need to replace the rad, as it's very slowly weeping.

 

I am planning to do a few odd trackdays, perhaps

four or five times a year I guess, unless I get totally hooked !

I may look to more bhp with mods at some point,

with the k series.

 

Task:

 

1- alloy rad

2- upgrade/renew fans

2- triple return/bypass mod ? ( can you tell I'm not sure ha ha ! )

3- PRT

4- temp sensor

5- renew necessary hoses

 

Been advised to sort above while doing the job,

anything I missed off ?

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We need some clarification on triple return bypass mod?

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Paint your towing post, or if it's badly corroded get a stainless one.

Mine has rusted right through!

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Dean, thanks, good idea !

 

Triple heart bypass ...

Adrian at Corinium Motorsport suggested I consider an updated rad, I kind of understood

his explanation , kind of . He says it forces water

to take the long route through the rad , due to

Blanks , maybe he's meaning a triple core ?

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No need for a race rad. A standard ally one will do IMO.

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This is what I fitted - CLICK HERE

 

Never had temperature problems since fitting even on some very hot days on track

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Thanks Martin. Kosmo, might be me, but link not working ?

Thanks again for your help :-)

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Dave, you won't need a triple pass rad, they are not advised for road cars. As Martin said you just need an uprated ally one like in the link above or a similar one from Eliseparts:

 

http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/84/224/aluminium-upgraded-radiator/

 

It gets rid of the plastic end caps on the standard rad which are known for bursting and is also a larger capacity with extra cooling fans. I've ran 230bhp off one for 4 years on track and never had an issue. 

 

p.s. it's Neil at Corinium Motorsport not Adrian :)

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I put an uprated ally one on mine. Again, I had the same question and was told the triple wasn't really needed...

 

It was either from Elise parts or Elise shop. One was a bit cheaper than the other. Both good places to buy from..

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I just replaced mine with the ally EP one.  Quite happy with it.  My original rad was fine, but I had to replace the heater matrix due to a leak and figured the rad was probably near end of life too.  I changed the front end hoses too, though I fitted PRT a couple of years ago so the back was done.  (PRT is way easier with the rear clam off.)  Maybe change the coolant tank while you've got the system drained?

 

When you change your rad, be prepared for the inevitable seized bolts.  Worth buying some new C clips and SS bolts before you start the job... and a new hack saw blade!

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I thought about it, but now seeing how efficiently it deals with bringing the temperature down at the rad, I'm glad I didn't bother.  ...but I know you're thinking about the track too.

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Well I've checked the max/min level, at cold before a run out to Shelsley Walsh on Sunday, and again tonight. So, a round trip of around 100 plus miles, with some spirited driving.

There's no change in the level.

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