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Lotus in the Peak
28th - 30th June 2024

S1 Elise Engine Issues


Marcus

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Hi guys,

Im new to the forum so go easy on me. I've recently purchased a 2000 S1 Elise with the standard 118bhp k series engine. Serviced only last week, when today while driving down my drive in 1st gear - a horrible crunch happened and I killed the engine straight away. I tried to restart but could hear I had no compression, It appears to have somehow bent some valves (as the guides aren't returning) but the cambelt is completely in tact, the tensioner looks fine too.

 

I've been lead to believe that I need a new engine, my question is - does anyone know why this could have happened if the belt is fine?

 

And also how much hassle is it to fit a 111s VVC engine?

 

Its worth noting that the car has full service history with 14 stamps and received a C service in 2012 (which I'm lead to believe is a cambelt change)

 

Thanks

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Hi Forrest. Your problem is a mystery to me but I know nothing about tech stuff. Martin R will be along in a bit i'm sure with a bit more of a clue.

Hope you get it sorted quickly.

 

Welcome to MLOC btw.

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Hi Forrest,

Unsure as to the origin of your engine failure however on the subject of a VVC lump into a non VVC s1 it's easy enough, as my car has had this done.

Easiest way is to find an s1/early VVC lump 143bhp version as this is a straight match to the loom.

Mine has a 160bhp trophy engine in which was installed using the s1 loom and ecu (incorrect for the engine) and causes it to be slightly sluggish below 3k rpm

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I would guess the bottom crank pulley has come loose? Remove plugs, check the crank pulley bolt if its tight see if all the timing marks can be lined up?

 

I don't think it was the crank pulley as I used a socket on that to see if the engine still span - It felt as it should in my opinion, some people have said it may have simiply stripped the teeth off the belt :/

 

Would this engine bolt straight in do you imagine? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOTUS-FREELANDER-MGF-MGTF-MG-TF-135-BHP-ROVER-K-SERIES-ENGINE-60k-/141285764744?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20e549ae88

 

I need some advice as I refuse to put an engine in the same power but I don't want to wait for headwork at this time of the year (summer and a convertible)

 

I think the VVC option could potentially be problematic at the moment and currently I just want it drivable again. Is it worth fitting a standard engine with MGF 135 cams?

 

All opinions would be appreciated

 

Thanks

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^ agreed.

 

And check the vernier's are tight on the cam.

 

It sounds like the timing has "slipped".

I will do, thank you, I doubt the engine is saveable though? Do you think?

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Check the timing marks and take it from there? What makes you think it has bent valves?

 

When you turn the cams by hand (spanner) it gets to a stiff bit that will let it turn no more

 

plus when I took the rocker cover off some of the valves hadn't returned

 

How should I be testing the timing marks if I cannot get the engine to turn past a certain point? :/

 

Thank you

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You may get them to line up by turning it backwards? The only way the valves can get bent are the belt has jumped teeth or something has come loose? If you can remove / replace a cylinder head yourself its not a major disaster?

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When you turn the cams by hand (spanner) it gets to a stiff bit that will let it turn no more

 

plus when I took the rocker cover off some of the valves hadn't returned

 

How should I be testing the timing marks if I cannot get the engine to turn past a certain point? :/

 

Thank you

 

Its not really recommended to try and turn the engine over via the camshaft. It should be done via the crank.

 

If you still can not turn the engine fully over via the crank then there is a high possibility of a issue internally.

 

Your only option then is to remove the head and inspect like Martin R has said.

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Its not really recommended to try and turn the engine over via the camshaft. It should be done via the crank.

 

If you still can not turn the engine fully over via the crank then there is a high possibility of a issue internally.

 

Your only option then is to remove the head and inspect like Martin R has said.

I know this was a less than ideal setup but I couldn't get a socket or spanner to the crank bolt due to the chassis being in the way (blaming the tools :)

 

I will try and take the head off this weekend see what I can find.

 

Thanks for your help everyone

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