Marcus Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Hi guys, Im new to the forum so go easy on me. I've recently purchased a 2000 S1 Elise with the standard 118bhp k series engine. Serviced only last week, when today while driving down my drive in 1st gear - a horrible crunch happened and I killed the engine straight away. I tried to restart but could hear I had no compression, It appears to have somehow bent some valves (as the guides aren't returning) but the cambelt is completely in tact, the tensioner looks fine too. I've been lead to believe that I need a new engine, my question is - does anyone know why this could have happened if the belt is fine? And also how much hassle is it to fit a 111s VVC engine? Its worth noting that the car has full service history with 14 stamps and received a C service in 2012 (which I'm lead to believe is a cambelt change) Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanB Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Hi Forrest. Your problem is a mystery to me but I know nothing about tech stuff. Martin R will be along in a bit i'm sure with a bit more of a clue. Hope you get it sorted quickly. Welcome to MLOC btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex B Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Hi Forrest, Unsure as to the origin of your engine failure however on the subject of a VVC lump into a non VVC s1 it's easy enough, as my car has had this done. Easiest way is to find an s1/early VVC lump 143bhp version as this is a straight match to the loom. Mine has a 160bhp trophy engine in which was installed using the s1 loom and ecu (incorrect for the engine) and causes it to be slightly sluggish below 3k rpm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I would guess the bottom crank pulley has come loose? Remove plugs, check the crank pulley bolt if its tight see if all the timing marks can be lined up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 I would guess the bottom crank pulley has come loose? Remove plugs, check the crank pulley bolt if its tight see if all the timing marks can be lined up? I don't think it was the crank pulley as I used a socket on that to see if the engine still span - It felt as it should in my opinion, some people have said it may have simiply stripped the teeth off the belt :/ Would this engine bolt straight in do you imagine? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOTUS-FREELANDER-MGF-MGTF-MG-TF-135-BHP-ROVER-K-SERIES-ENGINE-60k-/141285764744?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20e549ae88 I need some advice as I refuse to put an engine in the same power but I don't want to wait for headwork at this time of the year (summer and a convertible) I think the VVC option could potentially be problematic at the moment and currently I just want it drivable again. Is it worth fitting a standard engine with MGF 135 cams? All opinions would be appreciated Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I would remove the cam belt cover, check the belt and check the timing marks line up ( or not ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John FISH Curtis Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I would remove the cam belt cover, check the belt and check the timing marks line up ( or not ). ^ agreed. And check the vernier's are tight on the cam. It sounds like the timing has "slipped". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 ^ agreed. And check the vernier's are tight on the cam. It sounds like the timing has "slipped". I will do, thank you, I doubt the engine is saveable though? Do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 I will do, thank you, I doubt the engine is saveable though? Do you think? Check the timing marks and take it from there? What makes you think it has bent valves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 Check the timing marks and take it from there? What makes you think it has bent valves? When you turn the cams by hand (spanner) it gets to a stiff bit that will let it turn no more plus when I took the rocker cover off some of the valves hadn't returned How should I be testing the timing marks if I cannot get the engine to turn past a certain point? :/ Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 You may get them to line up by turning it backwards? The only way the valves can get bent are the belt has jumped teeth or something has come loose? If you can remove / replace a cylinder head yourself its not a major disaster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 As an aside, you might find this interesting? http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/engine_options.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanS1 Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 When you turn the cams by hand (spanner) it gets to a stiff bit that will let it turn no more plus when I took the rocker cover off some of the valves hadn't returned How should I be testing the timing marks if I cannot get the engine to turn past a certain point? :/ Thank you Its not really recommended to try and turn the engine over via the camshaft. It should be done via the crank. If you still can not turn the engine fully over via the crank then there is a high possibility of a issue internally. Your only option then is to remove the head and inspect like Martin R has said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 Its not really recommended to try and turn the engine over via the camshaft. It should be done via the crank. If you still can not turn the engine fully over via the crank then there is a high possibility of a issue internally. Your only option then is to remove the head and inspect like Martin R has said. I know this was a less than ideal setup but I couldn't get a socket or spanner to the crank bolt due to the chassis being in the way (blaming the tools I will try and take the head off this weekend see what I can find. Thanks for your help everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 You can cut down a 22mm socket to fit in or loosen the engine mount a bit to lower the engine enough to get a standard one in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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