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gingerbloke

Hello & Help

18 posts in this topic

Greetings,

I guess many 'hellos' on this forum start with a problem?

 

I live in rural North Herefordshire and have had my old 1998 S1 parked up in a barn for 10 years. I've recently decided to resurrect it and have hit some early problems with the immobiliser/alarm system. I used to use this car as an everyday driver but I'm unable to remember what the starting process is, what key to press, how to 'match' the keys.

 

Mine was fitted with (I think) the 6422 Cobra - there is a small 'touchstick' which matches a small slot on the column above where the starter key goes. There is a small siren unit under the dashboard on the passenger side with a key in it. Keyfobs are rectangular, with two buttons - one is flat, the other has a 'pip'. On the back on the keyfobs is Cobra logo and some hard to read numbers.

 

The car has been battery disconnected for most of the previous years, I've just put a new one in place and the ignition lights up, lights/indicators work, there is a small whine from the fuel pump. I've read about using the touchstick to 'relearn' the fob, doesn't seem to work for me but I'm not even sure the fob batteries are OK (I have three fobs). I've ordered some fresh fob batteries, I'm guessing they wear out with age even when not used.

 

Where do I start, what should I be checking?

 

Am I likely to have killed the cobra by not having a battery disconnected (I read that it has it's own NiCD power supply).

 

If the immobiliser/alarm unit is FUBAR what are options for replacing it?

 

Is there a Lotus specialist anywhere in the Herefordshire/Worcestershire area? (the car was previously looked after by Max/Tim @ Lakeside Engineering)

 

TIA,

 

Adam

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Take, the plugs out and put a small amount of oil in each cylinder. Then turn it over by hand using the crank pulley bolt. How much fuel is in it? I would consider topping it up with some fresh good stuff as it degrades with age. If you do get it running, change the cambelt asap as a broken one will be expensive. Also welcome to MLOC smile.png

 

Edit, http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/61/661/immobiliser-bypass/

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Thanks for that, it looks like my alarm is the Cobra 6019HF.

 

I've disconnected the main battery as the system just does a continuous beep tone when it's connected.

 

Would a competent auto-electrician be able to completely bypass the alarm/immobiliser? I want to get the car running and MOT'd, and then get the chassis checked out before I start spending any money on the car.

 

- just saw the link in previous reply - thanks

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OK, I've got the immobiliser bypass plug in but no joy. Dashboard lights up, you can hear the fuel pump whine/click, will not turn over on the key (not tried a bump start).

 

- Does the car alarm have to be functioning? Will the car start/run if it's switched off with the immobiliser plug in place.

 

The engine compression is good, plus came in/out without any problems.

 

I'd just like to pay an auto-elec to completely remove the alarm/immobiliser - it was always the worst part of Elise ownership and now it's really getting on my wick.

 

Adam

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It should start. I presume its a known good battery?

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Battery is good (almost new) - there is no power going to the starter motor at all, the lights don't dim when you try to crank it.

 

I have an auto-elec coming to see me tomorrow, will let you know what he finds.

 

Adam

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Adam, make sure the safety cut out switch has not popped out?

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IT RUNS!

 

Combination of some damaged wiring in the dashboard (mice/rats) and a cracked rotor arm (weird misfire around/above 2500rpm)

 

MOT booked for Monday.

Sounds promising!

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OK, so it very nearly passed - I'm quite surprised given that it's been parked up in a barn since 2003.

 

I've already fixed all the fails apart from dipped lights are not working (both sides). I haven't yet checked the bulbs (unlikely to be both) but the relay doesn't click when you switch the lights on (I've tried a spare).

 

So I need to pull the switch area (or the individual switch?) and check, but the service notes don't really show how to remove these switches or access behind them.

 

Any hints from someone that's already been there?

 

TIA Adam

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OK, pulled the entire dashboard along the entire length because it was full of eaten acorns and the radio had rusted in place and needed 'surgery' !

 

I found two chewed-through wires in the area behind the radio and will splice them (shorting the broken blue/red made the lights come on as they should, the other is green and doesn't seem to do anything important).

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... it was full of eaten acorns ...

 

Lol - it sounds like the local squirrels have been using your car more than you have over the last 10 years :)

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All MOT'd, taxed and insured clap.gif

 

I used it for a long commute earlier this week (Worcester A44) and it ran great but throttle would not drop off (revs would sit at 2K or worse - it would cruise on an A road at 50mph in top with no accelerator). I ordered a 52mm alloy throttle body of an ebay seller and fitted it today (a 20 minute job) and it's now perfect (tickover about 850).

 

The old plastic throttle body actually had a part melted/corroded butterfly at the top blink.png

 

Brakes are working great (they are MMC originals), no judder or squeeling.

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 Excellent.

 

Did you take pictures during the last 3/4 months during the work you have done, if so, chop chop, get em up.

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