Midlands Lotus Owners Club (MLOC)

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more!

This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Martin R

Partial Diy Winter 2013.

69 posts in this topic

Part One

 

Stripey needs a new heart. So its time to do something about it. I was seriously considering a complete DIY engine rebuild. However after asking the experts ( DVA ) I decided to let him do it.

 

Now a bit of history. The old grenade of a VHPD in Stripey has done 55K and a lot of trackdays, Zolder in the summer appears to have caused it to start using a fair bit of oil on track.

 

No complaints from me. If the new one lasts another 55K i will be pleased. As usual i will give it the best chance to do so. This will include new forged pistons, bearings, liners, bushed con rods etc etc.. It will also have the full balancing from Steve Smith at Vibration free.

 

Im also going to get Dan Webster to refurb the gearbox. New engine mounts from Vibra technics and no doubt a hundred and one other things i find along the way.

 

I have been very busy so im a bit into this before i have started this thread. First pic, the engine is ready to come out. A big thanks to Sheldon for his assistance getting it out smile.png

 

 

P1010013_zps15da5686.jpg

 

 

On the hoist.

 

 

P1010014_zps874485a4.jpg

 

 

Its out and in the back of the car to go to DVA.

 

 

P1010015_zpsdd89fdaf.jpg

 

 

A pic of the gearbox mount. I dont know how well this shows it but the insert is like a sausage in an entry and is fully knackered. Only to be expected i suppose.

 

 

P1010016_zps83aa24c9.jpg

 

 

I have removed the bulkhead heatshield. There have been cases of corrosion behind this. Especially on S1 models. Its usually in the bottom left corner. Mine is ok. Im going to give everything a good clean and a wipe over with ACF 50 ( corrosion block )

 

 

P1010001_zpsaed7d8be.jpg

 

 

Im also going to clean all the engine mount etc etc. I may as well do the engine bay earth point as well whilst i have good access.

Before

 

 

P1010003_zps472f4d7f.jpg

 

 

After

 

 

P1010004_zpsb962d905.jpg

 

 

Im a real GJOB at times smile.png However this bit should be worth while. I might do an additional earth strap from one of the alternator mounting bolts to the chassis. This should improve the ground in all the electrical system.

 

The engine is now with DVA. I will post up the full spec when he works out the damage of the spec i want.

 

Engine spec

 

1444 cams + double valve springs and caps to suit.

New Pistons

New liners

Bushed con road little ends to make them fully floating

New oil pump

New water pump

Full assembly balance

New bearings etc etc

Verniers

 

All put together and timed by Dave.

 

Im not prepared to disclose the price on a forum thread. However if you really need to know PM me. This is all assuming there are no nasty surprises when its opened up.

 

This thread may dodge about and ramble along the way sometimes smile.png Last year the car was stuck in my garage for a fair while waiting for the new MS2 head to be sorted. When i came to use it again the clutch was stiff. This was due to lack of use. The culprit is the clutch actuator lever binding in the bell housing.

 

I have mentioned Dan Webster is refurbing the gearbox. It would be daft not to fit one of these whilst its off. A simple idea but it solves the problem.

 

 

P1010002_zps3e41957c.jpg

 

 

The grease goes in via the nipple on the end. It then feeds out between the shaft and case.

 

 

P1010003_zpscde32965.jpg

 

 

 

Whilst i wait for the engine to return i have treated myself. A set of engine mounts from Vibra Technics. These are the road version. Hopefully with the engine being fully balanced there should not be too much increase in NVH. We will see.

 

 

P1010002_zps5fe0d088.jpg

 

 

 

A pic of the R/H main mount in place. I just need an engine to attach to it. Notice how clean the top mount is. Dan cleaned it up for me smile.png

 

 

P1010001_zpsda9bcfe8.jpg

 

 

The engine is now back and it looks very nice.

 

 

P1010005_zps3dc03494.jpg

 

 

I have had it balanced as previously mentioned. Now as DVA pointed out there was no point having it balanced and fitting the clutch pressure plate with set screws of different weights. All these now weigh 13 grams each. You can also see in the next pic the shiny part that has had material removed to balance the pressure plate.

 

 

P1010008_zps08329ac0.jpg

 

 

I replaced the engine mount with a nice blasted and cleaned item.

 

 

P1010006_zps710114b9.jpg

 

 

The gearbox is now bolted back to the engine and ready to go back in.

 

 

P1010002_zps3e88129a.jpg

 

 

 

After a fair bit of huffing puffing and swearing its now back in the car smile.png

 

 

P1010001_zpsf9edc5c5.jpg

 

 

 

I have made some more progress adding bits back on. The trouble is you keep finding things you feel need a bit of TLC. Notice the painted coolant pipe around the engine. Im a GJOB at heart.

 

 

P1010001_zps5d553936.jpg

 

 

I have also put back on the throttle bodies as in this pic. They had to have a bit of a clean of course.

 

 

P1010002_zps3d0e108f.jpg

 

 

Notice the uprated engine mounts in the pic hopefully they will not be too stiff. I connect all the other bits a pieces and filled up with running in oil and coolant.

 

 

P1010001_zps842461ce.jpg

 

 

I then reconnected the battery etc. I cranked it for a while but did not get any oil pressure. I blocked the cam cover breathers and injected a few PSI of air pressure down the dipstick hole. That did the job and i had oil pressure.

 

A couple of prayers back in with the fuel pump fuse and it started first turn of the key. You can imagine how pleased i was. Initial impression is its very smooth after the balancing. It was then a good check around for any leaks and all seemed well. So back on with the rear clam.

 

 

P1010004_zps5b75b380.jpg

 

 

I just need to do about 500 miles on the running in oil and keep it below about 4.5K revs whilst checking for leaks etc. Its going to need an Emerald to get the max from it but that will have to wait.

 

I have now done the first 500 miles keeping it below 4.5K revs. How boring. The good news is it has not used a drop of running in oil. I have just changed it for a fresh lot of running in oil.

 

The plan is to use this for the next 500 miles whilst slowly increasing the rev limit. It is then time for the fully synthetic oil smile.png

 

I have now done the 1000 miles on running in oil and limited the revs to about 5K. I have changed to fully synthetic 15w - 50. It seems to be going well and loosening up nicely. I just need to fund an Emerald and mapping session. It will be interestting to see what it makes.

 

 

To be continued.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1900 Martin ? & when did you sneak the Nitron's on ?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1900 Martin ? & when did you sneak the Nitron's on ?

 

As its a Sport 190 and the original engine im sticking with 1800 Russ. the plan is to run in the rebuilt one and put an Emerald on and take it from there.

 

What 46mm Nitrons Russ? :)

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... when did you sneak the Nitron's on ?

 

Wonder if Liz know's ;)

Edit:

 

As its a Sport 190 and the original engine im sticking with 1800 Russ. the plan is to run in the rebuilt one and put an Emerald on and take it from there.

 

What 46mm Nitrons Russ? smile.png

Obviously she doesn't ;)

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry my mistake must be a reflection from the tea mug !!

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As a slight aside. Sheldon and i had a right game separating the gearbox from the engine. One of the steel locating dowels had corroded into the aluminum.

 

A fair big crowbar sorted it out. God knows how you would have managed it with it all in the car and the clam on.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds a great spec Martin, let me know if you need any help.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds a great spec Martin, let me know if you need any help.

 

Andy, thanks. Will do. It will probably be the end of February before the engine is done. Im sure i can find a few bits to keep me busy till then.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It will probably be the end of February before the engine is done.

 

I hope it's not like the head work you had done or it could be Feb 2015.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As a slight aside. Sheldon and i had a right game separating the gearbox from the engine. One of the steel locating dowels had corroded into the aluminum.

 

A fair big crowbar sorted it out. God knows how you would have managed it with it all in the car and the clam on.

With great difficulty, my first one was like that when I did it in the car, it was a right game.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well this has been a long time coming, I remember us talking about this back in 2010 at the Le Mans trackday and you were doing your best to kill it then! ;)

 

Good luck with it and I look forward to future updates :)

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Miles, thanks for that. Do you fancy Zandvort next year? :) I could do with another driving lesson.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds great Martin. I hope we can look forward to regular progress bulletins?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites