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Lotus in the Peak
28th - 30th June 2024

Early Summer Diy


jimbo07g41

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So with Phils great post nearly over and Martin busy buying up surplus k series parts, I thought it might be good to start a thread about my recent camshaft change. This is not a guide but just my experiences.

 

First thing to do was to take the Camshaft cover off. I undid the bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence.

 

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With the VVC engine you need to undo the HDU and rotate it so that you can reach the cam carrier bolts underneath.

 

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I removed the HDU to clean the mating surfaces. If you do this you need to make sure the mechs remained syncs when you put the VVC actuator plunger back on.

 

You only need to remove the bottom VVC mech bolts and just give the top bolts a single turn, so they remain connected to the cam carrier and remain in sync with the bar linked to the other mech.

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Before you start undoing all the cam carrier bolts its best to put the tming to the safe position. This is when the crank pulley mark is pointing to the mark on the bottom cam cover.

 

I didnt remove the big timing belt, just tied it out of the way after backing off the belt adjuster. I used a tool out of my grinder to keep my camshaft sprockets still while i backed off the bolts. Worth noting that i backed off all four camshaft spocket bolts before removing the belts.

 

You also need to remove the top back cam belt cover that is bolted to the engine. One near to the engine mount, one near to the top of the waterpump and one on the other side, just above the edge of the bottom cambelt cover,

 

Make sure you have some news paper out as you lift the cam carrier as there can be a great deal of oil.

 

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Jamie, brave man. I always shied away from the VVC mechanisms. I however did not know the trick of being able to leave the mechanisms attached to the cam carrier. It made no mention of this in the service notes. They were as clear as mud to me.

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Matin your correct that the service notes tell Rover techs not to remove them!

 

But people have zip tied them to keep them together and then removed them. There is even a guide on SELOC wikion re synching and its not too bad to do, once you understand the puzzle.

 

So Brian (cheers brian!) off here made me up some 6 degree offset dowels. These alter timing and the dowels are fitted to both the inlet and exhaust cams. However, to properly check and adjust your tming you need a range of different dowels and dti's to measure lift. I would have had to loctite the dowels in place so i decided not to until i have more time and access ro some dti's.

 

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good to meet you the other evening Jamie, can't believe you've got your car in bits already. How do you check the timing on a VVC, obviously it can only be done statically, so you ave figures to aim for but is there an upper stop for when things move?, i'm a bit like martin, the VVC does seem like black magic to me at the moment - a lack of exposure so far.......

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I have a rough understanding how it works. The inlet cams ( there are 2 ) are joined together by a solid rod that runs along the front of the head. It has a gear either end that that joins it to the cams.

 

The timing is adjusted by the solonoid depending on the revs being used. Taking it apart looks simple getting it to work correctly after reassembly not quite so simple.

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good to meet you the other evening Jamie, can't believe you've got your car in bits already. How do you check the timing on a VVC, obviously it can only be done statically, so you ave figures to aim for but is there an upper stop for when things move?, i'm a bit like martin, the VVC does seem like black magic to me at the moment - a lack of exposure so far.......

 

So you synch the rebuilt mechs by lining up the teeth on the edge of the cam carrier and the long rod as Martin mentioned. Both mechs should be on the same teeth. The HDU works with oil pressure, so is both hydraulic and controlled by the solenoids, operating a plunger that has teeth that engage with the shaft, which operates the VVC mechs.

 

You time up the front cams by having the marks on the cams facing outwards on the same horizontal plane. There is a mark on the cam cover to do this. You slip the belt on and then rotate the cam pulleys by 180 so the marks face each other. You then time the front belt as normal. You measure TDC on the pistons as normal and the lift on the inlet and outlet tappets as normal, with DTI's. I think some people even suggest using solid tappets to do the timing and then replacing with hydraulics.

 

Maybe we should have a MLOC timing day. Brian can have a selection of dowels and it would be interesting how near we can get to the ideal settings.

 

Phil I really like your car. I prefer S2's but after seeing your 49 er and Gregs 111s, I have become more of a fan. I put a driven plate on the wrong way once and wondered why I couldnt get any gears, so that mistake cost me a few hours!

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So I made sure the vvc's were in sync and then lifted the cam carrier and cams onto the head. I had used the Rover anerobic sealant on the cam carrier as per the service book. I then followed the sequence to tighten the bolts up to 10nm using my torque wrench.

 

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On the last picture you can see the yellow sealant coming out of the side.

 

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Thats the thing with cam timing. The pulleys have a certin number of teeth. The diference between one tooth and the next will be a few degrees. This may not be near the optimal timing for the cam. verniers or dowels allows you to get it bang on.

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