kayj_prod Posted January 2, 2012 Posted January 2, 2012 I'm just thinking ahead to when I get my car back from the body shop and can start on my own work. I have bought the PRT kit from Elise parts and looked at fitting it. Looking at refilling the coolant, it looks like I'll need a pressurising tool. Perhaps needless to say, I don't have one. Any other tips for this job?
dobbo Posted January 2, 2012 Posted January 2, 2012 It's possible to change the coolant without a pressure system. The instructions are in the service manual (and maybe also in the handbook, can't remember). Basically, there are two bleed screws. One near the coolant header tank, the other on the pax side inside the front wheel arch liner (in the big pipe off the rad). You need to fill it and run the engine to circulate the water. The thermostat needs to open to get the water to the rad. You need to do the whole bleed and top thing at least three times. By the third time, the water will be properly hot !!! Facing the car downhill can help the air come back to the engine bay bleed hole. You do need to take care to get it done right as the last thing you want is to have no coolant in the block (HGF here you come, especially when a slug of cold comes back from the rad when the thermostat opens, which would defeat the object of a PRT). I haven't done it myself, but there are plenty here that have that can give more detailed info.
jhall89 Posted January 2, 2012 Posted January 2, 2012 Pressure system is the same one you can use for bleeding brakes [using spare tyre] with correct adaptor for header tank. Fitting PRT is not easy if you haven't done it before particularly removing old thermostat. I'm pretty handy and do most jobs myself but entrusted this to TGA who turned it around inclu antifreeze change in less than 4hrs
kayj_prod Posted January 2, 2012 Author Posted January 2, 2012 Thanks Chris. I've got the service manual and I'm sure that is where I read about the pressurising tool... but I was sure there would be another way. If in doubt, there is an MGF specialist in the next village. I would presume there would be a similar kit for the MG... Fitting PRT is not easy if you haven't done it before particularly removing old thermostat. I can't foresee any difficulties, and both clams are off anyway which will make things easier to get at. Is it just that it is awkward to get to?
jhall89 Posted January 2, 2012 Posted January 2, 2012 Ah - if you have clams off should be straightforward; issue is access to bolts holding pipe to thermo housing and then removing thermostat and reassembly. with clam in place you need double jointed hands and cannot see anything. also with front clam off rad bleed valve is easy to access. Good luck!
Martin R Posted January 2, 2012 Posted January 2, 2012 Relativley easy job with the rear clam off. I used an Ezzi bleed brake bleeder to pressurize the system. I have one for brake fluid and one kept for water jobs. One of the caps fits on the coolant bottle. To be fair i have also bleed the system without. Follow the service manual method but ignore the pressurizing bit and it should still work. The water flows from the engine up the drivers side and returns up the passenger side. Feel all over the rad for a uniform heat to search for airlocks. I have also found once the passenger side pipe is getting hot out of the rad, you should have removed most of the air. It might also be worth changing to OAT antifreeze at the same time. I changed mine. You will have to flush the system a couple of times though as you cannot mix the 2 types of antifreeze. It will cause a sludge if you do and possibly block the system HTH edit, if you do use the Ezzi bleed, lower the tyre pressure first. You dont want to blow the hoses off.
jimbo07g41 Posted January 2, 2012 Posted January 2, 2012 My spare engine came out of a MG TF and it had a PRT. I think they put them in the TF from 2003 - 2004.
stockhome Posted January 2, 2012 Posted January 2, 2012 I fitted my PRT with the cam on and ity was a right pain in the arse should be much easier with the clam off. I always use the method dobbo mentioned of bleeding the system with no issues.
mollydog Posted January 3, 2012 Posted January 3, 2012 have a look here: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=315806 I think its a good way to go when replacing coolant, I got all the parts to do this from Ebay and iirc all parts cost me around £30 - £35, I can't say how good as I've not yet fitted my PRRT, its too cold out side but reading the link to that thread I think its maybe the way to go to prevent air in the system HTH
jimbo07g41 Posted January 3, 2012 Posted January 3, 2012 Using some kind of vac or pump will do it better, but if you can raise one end of the car you can get good results. I raise the back and just take my time and repeat the procedure a few times. Air bubbles will go to the highest point and you just need to make certain that the car does not get too hot.
winthattt Posted January 4, 2012 Posted January 4, 2012 Like they said, easy job with the clams off, pain in the bottom with them on. I did mine and was very prepared to hook up the Ezi-bleed kit but it was not needed. I just filled the header tank, let the car idle and opened the two bleed valves (whilst it was warming up and when it was at full operating temp). All the air came out first go and I have never had to top it up since (two years and some track days later). Actually, I did not have an Ezi-bleed as the pipe had perished. I had a bicycle pump (with a pressure gauge) and an old inner tube. I cut the tube about 30cm either side of the valve. Tied one end in a knot and was going to fix the other end around the water filler with a cable tie.and pump up the pressure......but I did not need it.
hotpurple Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 I used an eezibleed when I did mine. As others have said, make sure the tyre pressure is reduced a lot before you start or you'll pop something. With the clam off the PRT should be easy, with it on it is nearly impossible. I tried to fit mine for nearly 6 hours and gave up in the end and put it back to stock (which is another story in itself, thanks again Stockhome!). Chris
kayj_prod Posted January 21, 2012 Author Posted January 21, 2012 It might also be worth changing to OAT antifreeze at the same time. I changed mine. You will have to flush the system a couple of times though as you cannot mix the 2 types of antifreeze. It will cause a sludge if you do and possibly block the system HTH I can just flush the system with water can't I Martin? I've read differing opinions about system flushing additives... We're in a hard water area, so I'll use distilled water when I fill the system. Is a 50/50 mix the norm or does it depend on the coolant product and/or usage? (I've only ever topped up vehicles before... especially my Range Rover, needing coolant top ups as regularly as oil!) It'll be a while yet as, stopping in to see the car yesterday, it is still in the prep stage before priming. Keith
hotpurple Posted January 21, 2012 Posted January 21, 2012 Yes, water is fine to flush the system, it's usually best to flush it in reverse, ie so you push any sludge back out of the system. Iirc the Elise flows from drivers side to passenger side. So stick your hose pipe in the pipe that goes up the passenger side sill. (null) Oh, and the anti-freeze / coolant will tell you what quantities to mix it in. (null)
Martin R Posted January 21, 2012 Posted January 21, 2012 Keith, what i did was as follows. I pulled the hoses off underneath to get the old A/F out.Replace hoses. I then refilled with water and bled and ran the car up to temp. This was to make sure the heater matrix was flushed. With the old thermostat in i think im right in saying there is no flow through the heater matrix till the thermostat opens. I did this a couple of times as im paronoid. Drain for a last time. Fit PRT refill etc etc. A bit of a long winded way but suited my OCD i suppose
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