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Lotus in the Peak
28th - 30th June 2024

Toe Links, Drops Links And Anti Roll Bars


graeme_laslett

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Hi All,

 

I need to replace the toe links on my S1 (which I think has Ali hubs, but still need to check), and from what I understand I will need a geo once this is done. My first question is can I replace the toe links, then drive to have the geo done? Is it worth it? Would the garage need to undo the tow links to change the geo? If so, I might as well get the garage to do both.

 

I also want to replace the Anti Roll Bar and the drop links. Would I need a geo done again once I have done these?

 

Ideally I would like to do the back of the car first, and in a couple of months do the ARB and drop links, but if I need a geo after each I'll hang on and get them all done at the same time.

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

G

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Toe link change = geo.

 

Anti roll bar and drop links won't.

 

If you can, i'd replace the toe links myself first as theres a couple of hours labour involved, which will add to your bill should you get a garage to do it.

 

Measure the toe links from centre to centre of the ball joint and try to replicate as best you can if you're removing it completely to replace both ends.

 

The toe links have quite a coarse range of adjustment on them, half a turn equals a large toe change for example, so you will definitely need a geo afterwards.

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Not tried it, but one good idea I've seen for the toe links is to fix a couple of cheap laser pointers to the hubs and mark where they hit a wall. You can then adjust the new links so the spots hit the same place, so at least you get the same setting - should be good enough till you can get a full geo done.

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Slight thread drift, how do you tell if your standard toe links need changing? (Before they get really bad and start knocking etc)

 

As well as the normal up and down motion, should there be some freedom in the joints to allow you to "twist" the bar on standard toe links?

 

Also, is there anything that can be done to maintain / extend the life of standard toe links, ie penetrating oil?

 

Cheers

G

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Yes - you should be able to twist the bar a few degrees smoothly (no crunching or scraping). If they've seized then a lot of stress will be going into the attachment points at either end and they'll eventually sheer.

 

Also grab the rear wheel at the 3 o'clock and 9'clock positions and try pushing and pulling opposite sides of the wheel hard (as though it could move like the front wheel does when steering) - you shouldn't feel any play or hear any knocking.

 

The standard ball joints should be sealed with a rubber boot. If the boot has split then the ball joint should be replaced because the grease won't stay there for long and then the joint will wear quickly. Inside the boot is a thick grease - nothing like penetrating oil.

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