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timbo last won the day on January 3

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  1. Hmmm...a double entendre in there somewhere!
  2. Great idea, definitely impressed and well thought out! Once it's been tested, it may be worth wiping a bit of clear silicone around the end of the tubing then pushing it into the grommet, just to bond the two together.
  3. +1 to this. I have a couple of these and they work fine. Most smart chargers use the same/similar control chip so not much to choose between them in terms of operation & function.
  4. Quite agree Kieran. I have used a number of garages - both independent and authorised - over the years and with varying levels of confidence.
  5. Welcome to the fold! Great looking car, have fun with it. I can highly recommend PJS - excellent, professional service from Paul and all the staff there.
  6. Happy to be shot down on this one but, if the ECU is controlling fine except on idle (as you say, the 1% minimum opening is too big), is there any way to adjust the throttle stops so they still allow a very small air bleed when closed? With a single TB the IACV would assume airflow control when the throttle is closed to maintain minimal air into the cylinders. As I understand, initially on coming off the throttle the fuel cuts then resets to idle. If a satisfactory idle could be achieved by replicating IACV flow through a minimal opening at the ECU's 0% position, assuming it will control fuel flow at that setting, then as long as the subsequent ECU-controlled 1% step opening didn't affect pick-up, it might work, maybe, without needing to replace the entire ECU? I've been going through a very similar process on a Weber 32/36...not quite as cutting edge but the same theory! Another thought... You mentioned that, initially, you were getting only 25% TB opening due to the initial ECU settings. Is it possible that whatever was done to correct that has affected the fine control at low % opening?
  7. I was in the Manchester area a few days ago and saw a green Stratos...so possibly the one mentioned above :)
  8. My thoughts the same as duncx - the noise is the starter solenoid actuating. The battery could be in need of replacement - get it on charge and check the voltage. Other possibilities are: Starter motor stuck Poor contact within starter
  9. As it managed to start your car I'd say the battery sounds like it may be fine. To be sure that it's holding charge, try starting again when it's been left for a day or two without your Optimate connected. If it's storing ok then it should still be capable of starting the engine. As an aside on keeping it topped up, as you don't have electricity in your garage, why not invest in a solar trickle charger. Good ones aren't expensive at around £20 or less and should be adequate to keep the battery from going down.
  10. If the car won't start and has been pointed in the direction of the immobiliser then from experience I would, as above, work as follows, checking if the car starts after each stage: 1. Replace the keyfob battery 2. Bypass the immobiliser The Meta M36T is well-known for de-linking from the M99 so it doesn't unlatch and, hence, the car won't start. If it starts after bypassing the immobiliser then this is what will have happened and can be rectified by replacing the immobiliser. Replacements run as a standalone system using a separate coded electronic key. To check the M99 alarm itself, the obvious first step would be to set the alarm then deliberately trigger it to see if the siren operates. If it does, then the alarm is fine. The above all assumes the non-starting isn't being caused by something else, eg. worn/corroded starter solenoid contacts, etc.
  11. The Meta immobiliser doesn't have an internal battery - have you tried putting a new battery in the key fob? If that doesn't do the trick then it is possible to replace the immobiliser alone. As standard the alarm and immobiliser are paired, but it is easier and less costly to replace just the immobiliser. These can be bought for around £50 on eBay or Abacus alarms will sell you one with the correct plug for rather more. First step - if you haven't already - is the keyfob battery. Next step would be to bypass the existing immobiliser to check if that's the cause.
  12. Dr H: "I'm getting old..." = Zimmerframe? "I suppose a manual, old school V8 sportscar is a thing that doesn't exist anymore" = Mustang? Camaro?
  13. Looking at them against the grey background, the left one looks to be closest to the original Stratosphere colour.
  14. Always good to have on record from a selling/buying angle PJS also print out a 'health check' list when they carry out a service so you have a paper copy of condition. And there's always something interesting in their workshop to have a look at too...
  15. As Alex suggested check for any play - or tightness - in toe-link joints, etc. Also bear in mind that with cold weather, tarmac, etc. the tyres won't necessarily be generating as much heat so grip will be reduced. Most 'summer' tyres don't work below around 7 deg. C due to the compounds used so, coupled with the usual Lotus skittishness and cr*p roads, that's likely to make it feel looser. I'm assuming you've checked tyre pressures already?
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