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timbo last won the day on January 3

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About timbo

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  1. Probably output wire broken somewhere, so just a one-off issue. Interestingly, as electronics get smaller, they get more reliable so it's the bigger bits that tend to fail!
  2. Happy Birthday! Also, thought you might appreciate this - came though my Twitter feed: "Bloke next door to me drove home in a Stratos one day. My son told me that he’d arrived in a spaceship."
  3. Out of interest, what were the failure symptoms on the Aldi unit? Common fail with momentary membrane switches (as on CTek) is damp causing a short on the button contacts and/or rusting the 'pop' button. Just goes to show that the higher cost doesn't necessarily reflect on equivalent better quality. Most smart chargers work on monitoring delta-V change: As a battery hits peak capacity and goes into 'overcharged', the voltage will start to drop. The monitoring i/c identifies this and automatically reduces the charge current to mA trickle.
  4. A decent shock rebuild company should have a spring rate tester, so you could get them to check them out (assuming you know the spec to compare data against). Also look at overall condition, whether pairs (front, rears) are still same length, etc.
  5. Noticed that both Aldi and Lidl have their chargers in stock again...just in time for winter
  6. Many thanks for the info… I am progressing both options.

  7. Having had work done at a number of different places, I'm happy to add my recommendation for PJS. I'm sure everyone has their preferred choice, but mine came from a combination of: - High standard of work - Lotus approved - Good customer service - Timeliness - Location
  8. Leigh - if you wish I can take a look at the debris under one of our microscopes? Should help to identify and alleviate (hopefully!) any concerns.
  9. I've often used a torx bit to remove damaged/rounded hex sockets, if you have access. These can give enough 'bite' into the metal to get them moving. If you can't get that to work then drilling is possibly the best option. We do this when necessary on expensive (£10k+) lab equipment and have worked out the following: Start off with a countersink bit - this will remove any burrs, etc. from around the edges of the damaged hex recess and help to keep a drill bit from running off. Once you've done that, use a stub drill that's just larger than the recess, just to give you a clean, round hole and get an initial centre to work from. That will also help to minimise run-off. Once you've got it nice and clean you can start drilling into the bolt itself. I usually start this with around 3mm as that's small enough to get in but big enough not to flex. Use stub drills rather than ordinary jobbers as they're much less prone to going off centre.
  10. Paint codes here: https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Lotus&gncl=green&con=kc&page=2&rows=50 Also here: http://www.lotuselan.com/paint_codes.html There are several greens for that era, most common seems to be A65. I Googled that and came up with a supplier on eBay.
  11. I've used various in the area over the years (Peter Smith, Unit 4, Monster and others). Latterly PJS who I'm very pleased with and happy to recommend.
  12. Hmmm...a double entendre in there somewhere!
  13. Great idea, definitely impressed and well thought out! Once it's been tested, it may be worth wiping a bit of clear silicone around the end of the tubing then pushing it into the grommet, just to bond the two together.
  14. +1 to this. I have a couple of these and they work fine. Most smart chargers use the same/similar control chip so not much to choose between them in terms of operation & function.
  15. Quite agree Kieran. I have used a number of garages - both independent and authorised - over the years and with varying levels of confidence.
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