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Showing content with the highest reputation since 25/07/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Just wait until ALDI or Lidl have them for a tenner! Mine have been spot on 👍🏻
  2. 1 point
    Cheers Scott, Really appreciate it, I know a really nice Evora in the same colour
  3. 1 point
    I don’t think you’d go wrong with any of those three I suggested Kieran. No. 1 look a lot better in the flesh as per pic. I think concentrating on the one wheel could hit you in the pocket 😂 Plus you’ve picked the most expensive ones!!
  4. 1 point
    Chris if its at all helpful if you can get to mine I can sort this for you?
  5. 1 point
    I had the same problem, solved it by jamming a large long screwdriver against the riv nut. If you take a wheel off the side that is the problem you should be able to see the top of the riv nut that is spinning. Easier if you can get someone to keep pressure on the screwdriver while you undo the bolt. Once the diffuser is off drill out the old one the rivnuts and tools to fit them are not expensive.
  6. 1 point
    Well a rivnut would explain the spinning. Pretty sure the S1 is tapped directly into the subframe, but maybe they changed it on the S2. A loose rivnut can be a pain to get off, but if you can get something behind to jam it then it is possible. Even pulling on it to get a bit of friction can work in marginal cases, or jamming a screwdriver under the washer or bolt head (possibly protect the diffuser surface). It can get pretty corroded so anything you can do to get some decent releasing fluid into it will help. WD40 isn't the best. I like Plusgas. Spraying from underneath, through the diffuser, won't be the most effective. If you can get anything onto the top of the rivnut, it would be a big help, then leave it for a few hours at least. Rivnuts can at least be replaced if you can get the old one off, and you'll want to replace it so you don't have the same problem next time. It can be bodged up with a bolt and some nuts, but best to use the right tool.
  7. 1 point
    Been experimenting with various engine mounts recently. Just on b roads though not out on the track. Like with many things in this world we're often presented or unnerved with a problem we didn't know we had or were going to have - like engine mounts which can fail or are so soft we'll all get lift off oversteer at the first corner we next go round and almost certainly end up in a ditch. Luckily these same people usually have a solution for us if we're willing to hand over some hard earned cash. I started this little experiment just replacing a rusted sump bracket and deciding to replace the lower engine mount at the same time. OEM engine mounts: very comfy. No issues handling wise on a b road blat. Nothing wrong per se with oem. While main engine mount brackets have failed I've had it on good authority that aftermarket one's have failed as well which is probably a higher failure rate per 000/units than oem. But don't let some reality get in the way of a good story. Elise parts lower engine mount and sump mounting bracket: liked this as no change in NVH but really stiffened up the engine rocking front to back. I thought I could definitely-maybe tell a small difference during some spirited driving. Then went with the elise parts uprated gearbox mount. As above. Very happy No increase in NVH. Yeah, I 'think' it is a bit tighter at the back now. Then tried their main engine mount. This one isn't rubber like the other two it is polyurethane. Way TOO much NVH for me at normal drving rpm circa 2500-2700. Really annoying buzz through the cabin... And me. Not sure about the single bolt design for seating it onto the rear chassis section either. Engine wasn't moving at all mind you and was perfectly fine when pressing on into the mid threes, fours and fives, just really annoying when driving normally in traffic. Then I Bought the vibra technics fast road kit. Brilliant. Well made, fits well; the Engine is as solid as before and the NVH is only a very (very) small increase on OEM set up. If you want to solve a handling problem you didn't realise you have and avoid a main engine mount failure you've not had... yet ; I couldn't recommend this kit more highly. Main engine mount looks cool too. A bit like Pip in Great Expectations, I think I've essentially come back to where I started. However I've gone and solved all those problems I didn't know I had and while I'm alot poorer as a result, I'm also a lot richer in another way.. And I've got my good vibrations back at normal driving rpm. Seriously though In The spirit of Chapman always looking to find a better engineering solution; the only one I wouldn't do again for road driving is the eliseparts main engine mount. Hope that helps anyone thinking about engine mounts in the future.
  8. 1 point
    Cheers Simon . Yeah its been a while buddy.
  9. 1 point
    Lovely Chris - the best colour ever! Great choice.
  10. 1 point
    I have the CTEK 3.8. I have the connectors permanently connected to the battery with a plug that is really easy to plug in/out. Can't remember if the plug connector was included or and extra. Have used for a number of years now - no probs.
  11. 1 point
    At standard height you'll be fine. Both of my previous lowered Elise's coped OK as well, as long as you straddle or angle it. Regardless, you need to take them slowly, which can result in slow progress along heavily bumped roads....and tailgating SUV's 🙄
  12. 1 point
    Try driving a 2-11 over them! Most are fine but if you’re worried try going over them at an angle 👍🏻
  13. 1 point
    Hi, I use a CTEK MXS 5.0 on my S3 Elise - works great! I used a simpler CTEK model on my old kitcar which had an AGM battery which worked well too 👍 Ol
  14. 1 point
    Welcome back! I work in Thame and sometimes take the Lotus if you fancy a run out!!
  15. 1 point
    Welcome! I use Gav at unit 4 too. Good, honest bloke, who knows his way around a Lotus. As soon as I was out of warranty on my current car, it went to Gav. I personally believe, unlike most cars a dealer stamp vs a known independent stamp makes absolutely no difference to the selling price! Mark
  16. 1 point
    Inside information … Get an account on the vx220 forum... they come up for sub £250
  17. 1 point
    As a minimum 😂 Might get him one ☝🏻
  18. 1 point
    Character...oh that’s what you call it! 😂 The toilets clean we may as well do the rest for him, we could even help burn that MX5 😂 Not much in it round about £40k ish. I suppose with both the question would be could you find another these days, probably not. Although I’ve found two in two months 😊👌🏻
  19. 1 point
    Very strange not to have one. Have you tried the links above? Johnnyboy’s on seloc is still showing for sale at £500, and I’m sure Rocky will have one but if buying from him just make sure it’s in good condition, better still if he does have one go over and take a look at it before buying👍 Failing that, try Junks on Seloc. Good luck
  20. 1 point
    Hahaha scatty just needs a bucket and a sponge to go with his enthusiasm. Take note Gav. The isotope car I saw Dean, its on oh too. Higher miles than the others but priced accordingly.
  21. 1 point
    He’s not shy 😂
  22. 1 point
    Welcome back mate glad to help ..... again with number 6 ? 😂
  23. 1 point
    Welcome back Chris, loving the colour, but then I would say that... looking forward to seeing it, looks awesome 👏
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Small progress update ... The Interior has been out, harness bar and bulkhead panel. The side carpets were coming away in places so the old tape was removed , glue cleaned an replaced with new. I also replaced the speakers with new pioneer units whilst the harness bar was out. Of course they sit 8mm taller than the old units so are no pressed tightly against the harness's and the bar. My hand this morning looks like ive had a fight with a feral cat, Harnesses have been washed and boy were they grim.... It's now almost all back in, seats are ready to go in on freshly powder coated rails once lotus send me the right toyota spec bolts and spacers, they sent K ones first even though I asked for the toyota part numbers. Here's a quick test fit of the passenger seat running the msar harness bolt on the single shear side. For some reason the seats look grey in the photo. I've put the original 190 seats and runners in the loft in case I ever want to go back and sell the probax set. All in all happy so far , the painted centre works really well and looks oem which is what I was looking for , without buying a brand new unscratched unit from lotus. The fabric probax also feel allot comfier than my old leather set in the exige, might just be me though , although having an air pump in the drivers is a huge plus point on the comfort front.
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