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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/01/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Lower profile tyres are smaller than the expected size. Geometry will be affected, but can be fixed for small differences. Speedo will be off since it makes assumptions about how far one rotation goes. In this particular case, the diameter is a little over 3% smaller, which is outside the range usually considered acceptable, and you'll be going 3% slower than the speedo says. Ride height will be lowered by about 10mm, which is definitely noticeable. Lowering only the back isn't normally a good idea. The S1 has a little lift at the rear to start with and you'd normally want to lower the front, if anything.
  2. 1 point
    Make sure you get the right ones. Ps4 is for moderate performance saloons etc, ps4s is for sport cars. I also went up a width on the front and back to give a little rim protection. I’ve had no problem with rubbing. If you are doing low mileage summer driving then you could go for cup 2. It’s what lotus fit on the 430.
  3. 1 point
    I measured my R-clip at 20mm total length. Without taking it out, the pin appears to be 5mm diameter, which would be about right for that length clip.
  4. 1 point
    Look under the door hinge. Or if you're really unlucky it stuck on the wheel arch liner above the mudflap. If you had the bonnet open, it could be anywhere! You can measure the size of the recess in the bottom of the wiper blade. Just the length should get you the right clip. They're pretty tiny, only a couple of cm. Or measure the pin hole diameter if you have the tools to get it accurately. Or measure the pin diameter, 6mm or so would take a 2cm clip, 8mm a 2.5cm clip, and so on. If you're still stuck, I can go an measure mine, but it probably won't tell you much more.
  5. 1 point
    He took mine in and out twice. He will be sick of them
  6. 1 point
    Since selling my Elise and entrusting the servicing of my Evora to PJS Sportscars there hasn’t been much in the way of ‘winter work’ for me to do so for me it will be little more than a detailing session this time around. I have however been spending a good deal of time of late on a different project. When I first started work many years ago I spent all my spare time and money racing radio controlled 1/12 scale electric cars, with some success it must be said. Alongside that I also had a brief foray into radio controlled slope soaring, nothing fancy, just 2 channel rudder and elevator controls. Circumstances changed (married etc) and I moved onto other things, family, diy and real cars. Late last year one of my old friends from the car racing days who has flown model aircraft ever since got in contact to say they would be flying indoors at our local leisure centre and why don’t I pop along. So I did and was amazed at how the technology has moved on over the last 30+ years. What really got my interest though were pictures of a slope soarer that another of my old friends had built. An old Mig aircraft, built from scratch out of plywood, Correx and finished with self-adhesive vinyl in the style of the American Reno Racers. I had never heard of Correx, for anyone else who hasn’t either it is a twin-walled fluted material commonly used for housing ‘For Sale’ boards. The more I looked into it the more I knew I needed to build a Mig of my own. My friend had recently upgraded his radio control transmitter so I bought his old one off him and started gathering all the materials I needed for the build, a large part of which happened over the Christmas holiday. The plans for the Mig and many other aircraft are freely available for download off the internet. Once printed off at full size build could commence. The fuselage is made from plywood formers and sheets of 2mm and 3mm thick Correx which is ‘de-fluted’ (cut) on one side to allow it to be shaped around the formers, the two being stuck together with hot glue. The wings are folded from a single sheet of 2mm Correx using a plywood spar and 3mm Correx for the ailerons. These are partly bonded with impact adhesive and the rest with hot glue. Gradually it started to take shape Then, when it came to deciding on a colour scheme it just had to be a Lotus-inspired one and one immediately sprang to mind, not the Gold Leaf colours as you might have expected though. It had to be ‘Essex’ The canopy by the way is made from the bottle of a well know Cola brand. As you can see the Mig has ailerons as well as rudder and elevator so I now need to spend some time using a flight simulator on my PC linked up to the transmitter to practice all my crashing before taking to the air for real when the better weather arrives. When it does I’ll be heading off into the Peak District to find a good hill to fly from, fingers crossed I may even be able to fit it all in the Lotus to do so! Sorry for the slight thread hijack
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    S2 has the hook arm. S1 has a pin and clip system which just requires a hole of the right size through the centre of the blade. Take a look at your blade to double-check. On the underside of the "lump" where the blade attaches to the arm, you should see an r-clip recessed into the arm. You can fold it out and slide it off the end of the pin, then the pin will slide out of the hole in the blade. Very simple once you've seen it in action. The compatibility charts at these places are hopeless. For example, the one you link shows 26" wipers which won't fit on the S1 arm. You need 24" or even 23", because the arm is longer than the S2 version, hence closer to the edges of the screen. Even a 23" blade will probably lift slightly at the very edge of the screen, a 24" definitely will. You can always measure your arm for comparison and decide what length you want to go with next. The attachment on the linked arms is designed for a hook as on the S2. Luckily, several types of blade designed for the hook arms actually have the hook adapter fitted in a hole that will take the pin from the S1 arm. One that I know works is the premium Lucas blade shown in your link, although again you probably won't want the 26". You have to remove the centre adapter before you fit it. One of the Bosch blades also works the same way, I think the SP23 like in the link but again a different length. I can double-check if you want to buy it. If you look at the pictures on the website, you can see the centre hole that the S1 pin will go through once you get rid of the hook adapter. You might try mounting a 26" blade through the hole not in the middle of the blade, so it is overall closer to the pivot. Not sure how effective that would be, but if you're desperate to cover as much screen as possible. Just remember the spring on the S1 arm isn't very strong. Or just replace the rubber. Not hard, but fiddly. Maybe not worth it if you can get a decent blade without paying Lotus prices.
  9. 1 point
    Small progress update ... The Interior has been out, harness bar and bulkhead panel. The side carpets were coming away in places so the old tape was removed , glue cleaned an replaced with new. I also replaced the speakers with new pioneer units whilst the harness bar was out. Of course they sit 8mm taller than the old units so are no pressed tightly against the harness's and the bar. My hand this morning looks like ive had a fight with a feral cat, Harnesses have been washed and boy were they grim.... It's now almost all back in, seats are ready to go in on freshly powder coated rails once lotus send me the right toyota spec bolts and spacers, they sent K ones first even though I asked for the toyota part numbers. Here's a quick test fit of the passenger seat running the msar harness bolt on the single shear side. For some reason the seats look grey in the photo. I've put the original 190 seats and runners in the loft in case I ever want to go back and sell the probax set. All in all happy so far , the painted centre works really well and looks oem which is what I was looking for , without buying a brand new unscratched unit from lotus. The fabric probax also feel allot comfier than my old leather set in the exige, might just be me though , although having an air pump in the drivers is a huge plus point on the comfort front.
  10. 1 point
    Windy passes, steam trains, caves, cable cars, hills to climb, rivers to paddle in, chip shops everywhere.... brought my lad up north when he was 5 and he refuses to go back south, that was 12 years ago. My lad still enjoys the ltip even if he has to get up at an unreasonable hour. If he’s interested, it’s a great place for fossil hunting and you will find some.
  11. 1 point
    It’s the S2 that has the U or hook type wiper arm IIRC. I upgraded to an S2 arm on my old Elise purely to have more options for blades. If you worried about originality, you could always keep the S1 arm and revert to it if needed. As im sure you’ve read, the flat ‘aero’ blades are quite effective on the curved Elise/Exige screen. You could also look at changing the wiper relay- but then that wouldn’t be original.
  12. 1 point
    Dont do Facebook but happy to lead a group again😀
  13. 1 point
    Oh, and here's a car that just got through IVA. Chap in Manchester built it. Stradale with an Alfa v6. Took him about 15 months and 330 odd hours
  14. 1 point
    Reading all this makes me envious..... I miss working on / upgrading my S1 and don't want to start down that slippery slope with the current Elise yet !
  15. 1 point
    Oil leaks done thanks to Gav. he is glad to see the back of it lol. Just a couple of small jobs to do and im ready to rumble
  16. 1 point
    This video nicely sums the whole ownership experience; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1o8_zxJZIo
  17. 1 point
    The easiest way to bleed the brakes and clutch is with an Ezi-bleed kit from Halfords or similar. It uses tyre air pressure to pump new fluid into the reservoir as you bleed it out of the slaves. Clutch is the same process as the brakes. Just attach a length of fish tank air tube to the slave valve and open the valve, catch the fluid in a jam jar. I always bleed the clutch first, then the rears, then the front. That ensures the front brakes have the best fluid, they get hot.
  18. 1 point
    Dean is Mr Cool and not easily flustered In contrast I was momentarily mortified and sobbing into my shaking hands.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Dean You know I have the ultimate respect for everything you have done for MLOC over the years, tireless effort and supreme execution. LitP has always been a bastion of excellence, delivery and more importantly enjoyment. Dependability in a word. But what's happened this year? After years of being able to plan with 100% certainty this year is a big let down, I'm sorry to have to say. How come LitP 2019 doesn't clash with Wimbledon like it has in every other year I can remember? Ha Ha got you going there! 😂 So yes, I'm happy to lend a hand, Matlock Bath end suits me best as its just down the road. Let me know what you need. Hartley
  21. 1 point
    A motorsport built S2 with a VHPD engine offers a more ‘raw’ experience than the majority of S1s including my own - which is a bit naughty. That engine plays a huge part in the experience - probably the suspense of it detonating behind your back! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. 1 point
    Sorry but I've got no answer, no help, no photo I just wanted to say that's a great photo of a lovely looking S1 interior - makes me want to buy one!
  23. 1 point
    Option 1. Made a beautiful job of mine after a little altercation with some Armco
  24. 1 point
    Another vote for Option 1 here having had first hand experience of their work 👍
  25. 1 point
    Can we take a step back here and ask the fundamental question - how old are you Rich? If you are younger than me (60) I would say 'man up', get some warm up exercises done, and continue squeezing into your Exige as neither of your proposed replacements do anything for me at all. Hope this helps? Regards, Andrew
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