So, armed with my lists of seats that fit the Elise we spent over an hour in Southampton Mothercare talking with a very helpful member of staff.

We liked the lightness of the Quinny's and the Buzz 3 was very sturdy and very manoeuvrable with the single front wheel. Also easy to collapse, has quick release wheels and the one touch automatic unfolding was very impressive, and if you had a car seat in one hand then this is a real bonus to put up. The Maxicosi Cabriofix was easy to fit and release. You do get a few bits and bobs but you would have to buy things like the foot muff and larger basket separately.

Link

We also liked the new Silver Cross Surf. Very good looking and even easier to fasten and release the various seats you get. You do get a lot more goodies with this rather than the Quinny, but it is £50 more at £450. The Silver cross collapses quite easily and is actually smaller than the Buzz but don't think the wheels come off. The seat was nice and had a few other cushions with it. The big question is will the seat fit in the Elise. This we will find out when we go back to try them all in my car in the next few weeks.

Link

We had liked the Britax B-Smart, had a bigger basket and was very easy to release the seat. But on 2nd viewing yesterday it seemed bulkier than the other two above and as we know - size matters!! We do only have a Fiesta as a 'normal' car so we do have to consider that as well. Also, they didnt know of the Britax Rockalot car seat as mentioned in the SELOC wiki, so we will have to try the Britax seat again in my car. This does have quick release wheels like the Quinny so should be nice and compact. This one also has price on its side at £100 less than the Quinny Buzz.

Link

As an option we looked that the Quinny Zapp. Much smaller than the Buzz, smaller wheels and less sturdy, but the size it collapsed down to was very impressive. Very light and does fit the Maxicosi Cabriofix with some adapters. Useful more as a stroller so may be an option for an older child and would be great to fit in the boot of the Elise. Still just over £200 so not cheap for a stroller but would be good for shorter time use rather than the Buzz.

I'll update more when we have been and tried them in both my car and the Fiesta.

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A few days later...

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Well, after all that, we bought none of the above!

We went back to the stores on Monday with both cars intending to narrow down the list of choices and not necessarily order anything. We had researched more on the internet over the weekend and wrote a wish list of what we wanted the pushchair to do.

• Lightweight
• Easily collapsable
• Fit the Fiesta boot (mk6 2008)
• Have a baby lie flat position
• Fit a baby seat that fits the Elise
• Removable wheels
• Good storage basket
• Easily manoeuvrable
• Quiet hood
• Looks good

We looked at the three chairs mentioned above and others going through the list for each pushchair.

One we hadn't had chance to look at on Friday was the Mama's & Papa's Sola.

Link

This was the first one we looked at with the list and were surprised how many boxes it ticked. It also surprised us as the cheapest of the four we were looking at priced at £260 (before Bank Holiday sale price).

We ruled out the B-Smart as it was bulkier and heavier than the others; Mothercare's own brand for being complicated and heavy; the Silver Cross Surf for having rubbish storage, not feeling sturdy enough and not being able to fit the car seat in the Elise.

So this left us with the Quinny and the Sola. A big thing for us was the lie flat option, being able to use the pushchair seat as an overnight cot if necessary. A lot of the travel systems have a rotating seat (rather than a seat that can change the angle of the back) and separate carry cot. The Quinny is just like this whereas the M&P the seat folds flat rather than rotates. The pushchair was very light and easily collapsable. It also goes flat in the boot of the Fiesta with the chair attached in the fwd facing position. Once the chair is in only one wheel needs to be removed to get it further in the boot. Very easy. All four wheels come off this one as well so can be made even smaller for long journey's if necessary.

This pushchair also has adapters that will fit the Maxi-cosi Cabriofix car seat, and we actually spoke to a couple in the store with this set up of M&P and maxicosi and said they were very pleased with the whole thing and they had the same car sized restraints with a new Mini.

So, after all that, great fun getting the pushchairs and car seats in and out of our cars, we bought the Mama's & Papa's Sola and Maxicosi Cabriofix

• Nice and light
• Fairly easily collapsable and put up
• Fits very nicely in the Fiesta boot
• Has a baby lie flat position
• Fits the Maxicosi that fits the Elise
• Removable wheels (all four)
• Good storage basket
• Easily manoeuvrable (surprisingly so for a four wheeler)
• Quiet hood
• Looks good

Tick, tick, tick and tick!

Job done.

This is of course our own opinions based on our set of requirements. Both of which may change at any point lol

Classic Team Lotus is situated in the original workshop buildings at Hethel just to the right as you approach the main gate. Our party of 11 is joined by 5 others.

We are given an introductory talk by Clive Chapman on the goal of Team Lotus. Basically, they maintain and run the formula cars to preserve the heritage. They receive no financial support from Lotus Cars so they rely on money from race meets, shows and patrons who would like to drive their cars.

They've currently got 8 cars in the workshop in various states of repair and build. We're taken through and shown a short video featuring some of their historic wins. This is like a "proper" workshop. Even smells like one. We have to step over car parts and crowd round a JPS F1 car to watch the presentation. The tour's a bit haphazard but it all adds to the charm.

There's a lot of history here. In the archive room they have blueprints for all the cars and every lap test that was recorded at test, qualifying and race sessions. If you are lucky enough to own one of the race cars they've provide you with all these details so you can have a record of every mile it's ever driven.

In the back workshop there's a Type 72(?) that had been driven by Mansell. No surprises that the only major incident it had had in it's life was having the chassis written off by Takuma Sato a few years ago. Is there anything that man hasn't crashed?

I won't go into the detail of all the cars they had here as they're bringing a few to Donington in 2 weeks and you really should get down to see for yourself.

However, if you like you can sit in Nigel Mansell's F1 car (be warned - if you are over 5ft 7" you'll have real issues getting out) and we got to do a wheel change on the car. A bit of fun but it's good to get so close to the cars.

Again, at the end a chance to spend some readies but it's good to know it goes to help them continue their work.

You enter the factory at the end of the production line but we made our way through to the start before the tour proper began. First impressions: it's a lot smaller than I was expecting and there is a distinct lack of heavy machinery.

We start at the bodyshop. Elise panels are made in France so they are brought in more or less ready to be painted. They're readily identifiable as they are a pristine white colour. Exige clams are still made the "old-fashioned" way and are made in-house by hand. These are powder blue.

We saw the training mule for the Europa clams and panels. Much is made of the shortened sills but it doesn't look that lower to me. There was an empty coffee cup in one of the horizontal chassis members so if anyone buys one and there is a mystery rattle.....

We see the body panels being moved into the paint booth. They are transported on a trolley that allows the panels to be held in their finishing position.

However, the Sports Racer model and other models with stripes are actually assembled on a chassis in order to get the lines measured up exactly. Colin mentioned that this new level of detail is all due to the GM quality processes they had to adopt to build the VX220. Pre-VX220 Elises didn't have this level of work put into them and some of the cars had some interesting stripes.

There is a myriad of painted panels and clams around us (at the start of the tour we're asked to remove rings, etc to protect the paintwork). There's actually a lot of white cars that are destined for Japan. These are being built with the remaining K-series.

Onto the production lines (there's currently 2 running - 1 for federal Elises/Exiges, one for RHD). Starting point is the chassis and it moves through defined stages for wiring, electric, suspension, engine, crash structure, etc, etc. As the car gets heavier it is moved through a series of hand operated cranes. To be honest, this is the part that looks very monotonous.

Each stage is controlled by a computer that controls the torque settings for the power tools. If it hadn't been assembled correctly the computer wouldn't allow the car to move to the next stage. Important part numbers, etc and details about who carried out a job are stored by the computer and on a log book that follows the car through the process.

After every 5 steps in the build there is a quality sign off process.

Panels are assembled and fitted to the car using a jig. Geometry setting were then completed. Windscreen is added and then the interior components. Then fluids are added.

There was a real mix of cars here, some that obviously were "special order". A lightning yellow Exige S with Ohlins destined for France springs to mind.

Moving to the next area, 10 litres of petrol added and the engine is started for the first time. Electrics are also checked. Stored in this corner was the Europa test mule (the version that appeared in all the mags). It was being disassembled and Colin mentioned that it had probably done 40,000 miles. The interior had been stripped but we did get a close look at the rest. In my opinion, it's ok but just not different enough.

We move through to the final part of the factory where the cars have their final inspections and any issues are fixed (a spray booth is also in here to fix any paint issues). There's a variety of Elises and Exiges all waiting for final sign off.

First thing is a quick rolling road session that measures braking capability as well as power. It also gives the engineer the change to make sure all the warning lights and exterior lights are working.

Then the undertrays are fitted.

Just as well, as the next stop is the water testing booth. The car is driven into the booth where water is sprayed at 80psi at the car from 8-9 directions (including underneath). The engineer checks for leaks and the test can take as long as 2 3/4 minutes. My S1 Exige would be lucky to last 2 3/4 seconds in there so, again, another step forward in quality.

Final step is a very detailed paint and interior check and a thorough polish and it's moved outside to brave the Norfolk weather to wait to be loaded onto a transporter.

Outside there's a krypton green Exige and a Honda Accord thraping round the test track. Looks fun but we're not allowed to join in.

As we walk back to reception we spot a heavily disguised Europa with the S2 Exige spoiler added driving by. Another version or a binned idea?

Also spotted Gav Kershaw leaving in a laser blue 55 reg Exige S and quite a few Europa mules further down the front car park. Shame cameras aren't allowed but that is understandable.

Final impressions:

I'm impressed by the importance of quality. I'm not as keen on the VX220 but it seems it's production at Hethel really helped them focus on producing a really well put together car.

The production line was a lot more "hand-crafted" than I expected. I suppose this is all due to the way the Elise is built as it can be more or less moved by hand so easily.

Definitely a good day out and for £20 was good value. There's also an opportunity to buy some tat in the shop at the end.

I would recommend you do it in conjunction with a Classic Team Lotus evening and more on this in a minute....

Check whether a car has had a manufacturer recall by visiting the following links:

1. VOSA - A general make and model lookup database.
2. (TBD lookup on the lotus uk website)

Is it worthwhile me getting a tracker to get cheaper insurance?

Change insurance companies. There's loads that don't require them and seem to add no extra premium for not having one. Trackers are expensive with little comeback on insurance IMHO. Unless you've got a car with one fitted already, I wouldn't bother.

Vehicle Tax

As of the 13 March 2008, the vehicle tax is now based on fuel type and CO2 emissions for cars registered after 1 March 2001. A list of the bands can be found on the Government website Directgov

Cars registered prior to 1 March 2001 are taxed based on their engine size, which is easy to find out.

However, if your car is registered after 1 March 2001, the following links can be used to find out your cars' CO2 emissions and which band it resides:

1. Car fuel data - A general make and model lookup database .
2. Vehicle Enquiry page on the DVLAs Vehicle Licensing website - Specific car lookup.

So, put your oil questions here but please give the following information if you would like a recommendation:

• Make
• Model
• Year
• Engine size/type

• Any mods

• Type of use (road/track)

• Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used)

• What do you want a recommendation for? Engine, Gearbox etc?

Standard K Series

Good thread idea, i wanted to ask if the oil i'm using is ok for the use of my car. Here goes,

• Lotus Elise S1
• 1998
• K series 1.8 16v
• Only mods to engine are Hurricaine air filter and Raceline Back box.
• Mocal water/oil heat exchanger fitted+ remote stat to cooling system.

• Mainly road use car with minimum of 1 trackday a month, usually covering between 140-180 miles on a t/day.

Stack temp reading stays between 79-83 on road, no higher than 85 on track (even after 20 mins of hard use.)

Gear box oil i'm using at the minute if Castrol TAF-x

Engine oil used is Vavoline VR1 racing 5w-50 fully synthetic.

Should i change from the Gear box/ engine oil i'm using at the minute?

Answer One

Well, the K series was designed to run on sae 40 which is in has a viscosity of 14cst at 100degC oil temp (bulk in the sump).

An sae 50 will have a viscosity of 18cst at 100degC which is in fact quite a bit thicker than needed at 100degC.

On the basis that your oil temps are lower than 100degC the oil will always be thicker than the design parameters at high revs/high temps due to the cooler which as its drawbacks.

With oil that is this cool you could easily get away with a 5w-30 or 5w-40 without problems and not have the potential downsides which are

Lower BHP at the wheels Poorer fuel consumption More oil drag, friction, heat and wear

If you wish to change I would suggest a decent 5w-30 or 5w-40 synthetic (5w-40 would be my preference)

The next question is which oil would I recommend.

If trackdays are a factor then a race oil that can be used on the road with no downsides.

Silkolene Pro S 5w-40 or Motul 300V 5w-40 would be my choice.

The "Stack" Rus mentions is the standard Elise instrument cluster and he's reporting water temp, not oil. However with a water/oil cooler, instead of oil reaching up to 130ºC on track, it is perhaps being pegged to around 100ºC?

Thanks for that, I thought it was oil temp that was being referred to.

The 5w-40's I mention are good for 120degC (bulk oil temp in sump)

Duratec Conversion

I'd be interested in hearing your suggestions for my car:-

• '98 S1 Elise

• Cosworth 240bhp Ford 2.3L Duratec I4

• PG1 Gearbox

• Mainly road use.

• Mocal oil/water cooler.

• Wet Sump

• 85deg C coolant temp (unknown oil)

• 5W-40 Mobil 1 and Castrol SMX-S currently in use in engine/gearbox respectively.

Answer Two

Your choice of oils is fine, 5w-40 is ideal. Others to look at would be Motul and Silkolene.

For the gearbox the Castrol is fine, another to look at would be the Amsoil MTF.

Oil Temp Gauges

I've looked in various archives and the oil temp that others with oil temp gauges seem to be getting is around 120 degrees, i'd imagine mine would be somewhere in that region as well, for the time being i dont have an oil temp gauge fitted but hopefully will have at some point so i'll be able to see what temps the oil is getting to.

Iirc Dobbo has just fitted an oil temp gauge to his car so he might have some figures that would be useful for this thread.

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Answer three

QUOTE(Rus)

Iirc Dobbo has just fitted an oil temp gauge to his car so he might have some figures that would be useful for this thread.

Tis true. Unfortunately, the only decent run it's had so far is the Mids run a couple of weeks ago, so I don't have much to go on so far. It never went above 80s IIRC on that run. I do know that the oil cooler comes on line at about the same time that the coolant on the Stack reaches 50-60deg (from the touch-of-the-hand-ometer. The oil was probably around 50deg when the cooler started coming on line - I have a fairly good idea of what 50deg to the touch feels like as that's the upper limit we can work at in my job. You don't flinch instantly, but can touch it for a few seconds before pulling your hand away, and that's what the cooler pipes were like). After 1/2 hour of idling, however, the pipes were too hot to touch, so probably much the same as the coolant temperature.

Also, however, when I tightened up the connector to the temp sensor there was a slight "cracking" noise, which I assume was the sensor insert breaking its seal with the housing. That means it'll now have a slower response (no chance of an oil leak, though). Eliseparts have said that they will send me a new one when I do my next oil change. I also read recently that putting a sensor in the sump plug is not ideal as it's not really measuring the bulk temperature of the sump oil, and is slow to respond due to it's location (bit of a dead zone, so temperatures only change slowly). I did question this design with Eliseparts but there was no alternative within the design and timeframe that I had to get the car back on the road.

To be honest, if you're measuring oil temperature, there are two measurements that are important :

1 - the supply temperature (to check that you're not supplying oil that's too hot to the bearing) and

2 - the bulk temperature in the sump (to see if it gets overheated during use).

However, without two sensors and gauges, that's not possible !

Perhaps another set of gauges - I can then run two temp gauges, a pressure gauge and a voltmeter so that I can tell when my new audio amp, speakers and sub are drawing too much power ... biggrin.gif

The perfomance and limits of most oils are based on bulk oil temp in the sump.

As a rule of thumb the Silkolene Chemist (the man that invented Pro S and all their race oils) told me that -

Pro S 5w-40 was good to 120degC measured in the sump, after that to use Pro S 10w-50 as this is good for 140degC plus.

Mind you at these temps I'd be worried about something else giving out first, not the oil!

Oil Labelling Explained

What's written on your oil bottle and what does it mean.

This post may seem like going back to basics but I am constantly surprised by the amount of people who do not know or understand what is written on a bottle of oil and therefore no idea of what they are buying/using.

To be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic information then DO NOT buy it look for something that does!

1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)

2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for Motor oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for Gear oils)

3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings)

4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01 etc)

Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and I will explain later what statements you should treat this with some scepticism

So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?

THE BASICS

All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is.

VISCOSITY

Most oils on the shelves today are “Multigrades”, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)

Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the “W” number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance.

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.

SPECIFICATIONS

Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date. There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d’Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important.

API

This is the more basic as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories. S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel © specifications.

The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil are:

PETROL

SG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.

SH - Introduced 1993 has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability.

SJ - Introduced 1996 has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits

SL - Introduced 2001, all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting current emissions standards

SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories.

Note:

All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date SL and SM specifications.

DIESEL

CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only

CE - Introduced 1984, improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits and wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines

CF4 - Introduced 1990, further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston deposits, uses low emission test engine

CF - Introduced 1994, modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines

CF2 - Introduced 1994, defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines

CG4 - Introduced 1994, development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests

CH4 - Introduced 1998, development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high sulphur fuels

CI4 Introduced 2002, developed to meet 2004 emission standards, may be used where EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 % sulphur. May be used where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified.

Note:

All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications.

If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for SL, SM, CH4, CI4

ACEA

This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur).

Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows:

A1 Fuel economy petrol A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete) A3 High performance and/or extended drain A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance

B1 Fuel economy diesel B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete) B3 High performance and/or extended drain B4 For direct injection car diesel engines B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance

C1-04 Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 low SAPS, two way catalyst compatible. C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible. C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible, Higher performance levels due to higher HTHS.

Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.

Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils.

APPROVALS

Many oils mention various OEM’s on the bottle, the most common in the UK being VW, MB or BMW but do not be misled into thinking that you are buying a top oil because of this.

Oil Companies send their oils to OEM’s for approval however some older specs are easily achieved and can be done so with the cheapest of mineral oils. Newer specifications are always more up to date and better quality/performance than the older ones.

Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil:

VW – 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00

Later specs like 503, 504, 506 and 507 are better performing more up to date oils

MB – 229.1

Later specs like 229.3 and 229.5 are better performing more up to date oils.

BMW – LL98

Later specs like LL01 and LL04 are better performing more up to date oils.

FINALLY

Above is the most accurate guidance I can give without going into too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding the labelling.

Certain statements are made that are meaningless and just marketing blurb, here are a few to avoid!

Recommended for use where…………… May be used where the following specifications apply…………… Approved by………………………..(but with no qualification) Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements are paid for) Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence)

Also be wary of statements like “synthetic blend” if you are looking for a fully synthetic oil as this will merely be a semi-synthetic.

Like everything in life, you get what you pay for and the cheaper the oil the cheaper the ingredients and lower the performance levels.

If you want further advice then please feel free to ask here or contact us through our website at www.opieoils.co.uk.

Understeer

Understeer is when traction is lost at the front wheels while cornering, forcing you wide on a bend despite applying the correct steering angle

Understeer is most likely to result from the following scenarios (which are more difficult to correct as you move down the list):

1. Accelerating into a bend
2. Braking into a corner
3. Ploughing into a corner too fast
4. Low traction conditions on the corner such as ice or oil

What to do in an understeer situation?

1 and 2 are relatively easy to fix - stop doing them!

3 and 4, the bottom line is that it may all be too late. If you could have steered less in the first place, you would have done! But not all is lost.

First thing is to put less steering in. That's it. That's the best thing you can do. Just remember that if nothing else.

However, this is probably now pointing you at the tree on the outside of the corner. But it will allow you to brake a little, and with a bit less speed you will now be able to put more steering back in. You then need to balance your steering and braking at the optimum to maximise your chances of making the corner.

If you fail, game over. Fix your car and broken leg and book yourself into www.carlimits.com or similar. Expensive, but worth it. It's the only place you can practice and analyse this sort of thing (without upsetting a car park's owner... )

If you make it round the corner with minimal things bouncing off your bonnet, sit back, relax and wait for your heart to realise the terror you just went through. When you get home, clean the poo from the seat and book your driver training because it was probably luck this time.

Do not brake first (unless you are a driving god) but you can brake after you've corrected the understeer. You will only be able to brake gently as your tyres are already 90% stressed trying to make the corner and if you brake too hard you'll understeer again.

If you hit the brakes hard before removing some steering then you will keep understeering (even worse than before you braked) yet slowing down to the point where your tyres will suddenly grip again - with lots of steering still applied - and if you have lots of speed still the front then shoots off violently to one side, sending you sideways into a spin (which usually results in the feeling of being a passenger until impact, severe pain, and loss of wallet contents.)

External links

Another simple overview: www.drivingfast.net

More complicated review: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Understeer