The method I used has been used by others. The current is so small and the wires never move that twist and tape seems to be acceptable. I would have soldered but I'm shit at it and probably would have ruined it

OK so here's how I did it:

Remove steering column cowl (2 Phillips and 2 torx screws)

Unbolt stack from underneath (2 x 10mm bolts)

Remove binnacle

Unplug wire to back of Stack. The ones you need to splice into are A2 (black) ,A3 (green) and A4 (white/black). These are the earth, ignition and tacho respectively. The blue clip is numbered so you can actually see which wire is which. This way up a is the top row and wire A1 is on the right hand side.

Strip insulation of said wires (I used a scalpel and still managed to cut through a strand of copper :tsk and wrap corresponding shift-i wire round it. It's quite fiddly as the wires are so close together and fairly tightly bound.

Cover joints in tape and bolt it all back together. Mounted the light at the very back of the binnacle pointing slighty upwards. I can see it over the top of the steering wheel.

Seems to reflex nicely like a HUD on the windscreen too. (y)

Seems to work on on the default sensitivity. One light comes on every 1000 rpm from 1-4000 so far. Didn't go any higher as I was sat in the garage and the engine was a bit cold. Can't for the life of me set up the lower and upper limits though. Didn't seem to work when I did what the manual says. Will have another go tomorrow.

I reckon from start to finish it was about 50 mins. Not bad as I'd never removed the binnacle before and the wires were a bit of a PITA to do as they are so small.

Through a bit of reserch I found out that I would be better wiring the shift light feed to the signal to the coil pack, which is different on the VVC engine to a standared K.

Dave Andrews had this advice to give me:

"I would expect that the shift light would need a coil signal to calculate RPM, usually the low tension switch side of the coil is used for a signal so you might want to consider connecting to that either at the coil pack (tricky dicky) or at pin 25 of the MEMS.

The tacho signal from pin 12 is sometimes too 'square' for tachos/shift lights etc. The coil trigger signal (pin 25) is more of a round waveform and is sometimes better to use."

So I tried wiring it to the coil pack (low tension side) and bingo!, it worked!

You'll find that there are three wires on the low tension side, you should be able to use either of the outside wires. Just remember to set the Shift Light to 2 Cylinder mode, as it is now only receiving a signal for two of the cylinders!

Firstly, as a point, I'm not a mechanic; I have put this guide together to act simply as a reference for those who are as sure about doing this as I was to start with. It is recommended you should always change bulbs in pairs to maintain equal brightness. Here I have used the example of the Dipped Beam headlight. The same process would apply for the other bulbs. These are the following lights to be used:

Main Beam - 12V 55W 'H7'

Dip Beam - 12V 55W 'H1'

1. First, turn your wheel to face outwards from the car. This will give you better access to the screws you need to undo in the wheel arc.

2. Initially I removed the lower part of the wheel arch liner as I was unsure exactly which screws needed removing. As it turned out these three screws are all you need to remove. These are flat head bolts holding the external lamp cover in place.

3. Once the three screws have been removed, you can slide out the lamp cover, being careful not to catch either of the lamp domes.

4. This leaves the lamp housing and cablelling exposed.

5. Remove the yellow coloured cable and the smaller black cable and push clear of the housing.

6. Unhook the two sliver clips holding the bulb in place.

7. Carefully remove the bulb and replace with new one. Line up two lumps on the bulb fixing with the housing.

8. Reattach the metal clips and both cables, clean the seal and replace the headlight cover unit.

9. Rescrew cover back in place . Job done.

1. Ensure all electrical systems are switched off, including the alarm using the security key.
2. Lift front bonnet and
1. Prop up using washer bottle or
2. Remove front bonnet.

[*] Undo 5 plastic fastners securing radiator sealing fence and remove. (Can be done with this in place if extra care is taken not to crease or damage.)[*] Disconnect pump motor cable and pipes from washer bottle if necessary and secure out of the way.[*] Undo the three 10mm head fixings from the battery clamp and remove.[*] Loosen the 13mm head clamp fixing and disconnect the negative (-)cable from the battery.[*] Loosen the 13mm head clamp fixing and disconnect the positive (+) cable from the battery.[*] Secure all cables to ensure a clear path for battery removal.[*] Lift out battery taking care due to the weight and awkward lifting angle. Beware of handles which may break, or use a lifting tool.[*] Dispose of the battery responsibly at a suitable waste collection or recycling centre.[*] Check and clean battery cables and clamps.[*] Check and clean front chassis earthing point, which can be found by tracing the negative battery cable towards the chassis. Coat with petroleum jelly after reconnection.[*] Lower the new battery into position and reconnect cables, positive (+) first.[*] Coat terminals and exposed cable parts with petroleum jelly.[*] Refit battery clamp and tighten fixings.[*] Refit all other components, close front bonnet, and turn systems back on.

• A suitable switch
• A length of wire
• A few connectors
• Soldering iron and a bit of solder
• Black tape

I've been tinkering again - I've thought for sometime it would be good to have a manual fan switch. Mostly for use on track days but I'm sure it will come in useful if we ever have a summer and I'm stuck in traffic. I've had a nosey and this is how it works (I think). The fan is switched on via a relay due to the load currents. This is controlled by the MEMS ECU. The positive side of the relay coil is always live when the ignition is switched on. The ECU grounds the other side of the coil when the fan is required. After a question on SELOC as I could not find a car wiring colour code for the Lotus, it turns out the wire is Blue and slate Grey. A pic of the underneath of the relay box with the wire:

The wire I wanted is the second one from the left on the top. I've bought a switch and took the dashboard apart as well. It turns out the dummy switch (the one to the right of the headlight switches etc.) has some connections on the back. I've no idea what these are for:

I traced the Blue / Grey wire to see where it went to see if I could make the job easier. It turns out it runs in the centre console of the car. Obviously on the way to the ECU. I stripped off the tape on the loom with a craft knife:

I'm not wildly keen on cutting wires in cars. I've therefore stripped the wire ready to solder another wire to it:

Next I tinned the stripped wire with solder:

Attached the wire to go to the switch:

Also taped the section of the loom I had stripped, you can see the new wire coming out for the switch:

I cable tied this along the existing wires till we got under the dash. The fun part was being upside down in the footwell trying to thread the new wire to the existing switches. Once I had done this, I used the existing black wire off the dummy connector (ground) to one side of the switch and the new wire to the other side. A couple of connectors later:

A small sticker on label and we are done:

Surprisingly it works. The switch missing in the final picture is my fog light switch. This is deceased I found whilst doing the job. I'm going to order a new one. I may try and get the lights in the switch working at a later date but I've got to get the rest finished before Donnington on Tuesday. It will have to keep for now.

The inner units hold the fog lights but Lotus use a dual filament bulb in there so you need to get a feed to the other filament, which you can take from the outer units, On most S2's when the lights are on it would look like this:

( ) ) ( ( )

The other half of the inner units are the biggest problem as they are normally blanked off and they need carefully drilling out to accept a suitable bulb holder, if yours aren't blanked off then you just need a bulb holder and again need to get a feed to it, this can be taken from the loom that supplies the outer units.

The bulb holders are notoriously difficult to get hold of, but Nissan and Merc have used them in the past so maybe a trip to thier parts dept armed with one of the Lotus ones as a match might do the trick(Lotus only supply them with the light units and they are £££). Nick Adams the Lotus tecchy guru said that running all the rears from the same loom won't cause any problems as the car was made to run like this from day one. So doing all the above won't overload any wiring/ fuses etc and you should end up with rear lights as in the pic above.

Bosch 4PN Available at Costco

Halfords 063

To replace the stalk remove the screws holding on the steering wheel column shroud and gently remove it - be careful with the wires that go to the back of the mileometer reset button. With the shroud removed you can simply pull out the indicator stalk and remove the wiring loom from the back of it (its a block connector). Fit your new stalk onto the loom and refit, remember to test before re-fitting the shroud.