1. Boil the kettle, poor the boiling water into a bowl, add washing liquid - make bubbly

2. Wet the area around the badge keep applying the hot water to heat to the top of the badge

3. Gently use a flat edged ruler, slowly slide under the badge, applying more hot water, mover the ruler evenly around under the badge until you hit the pins (which aren't screwed in), adding more soapy water to lift the adhesive and slightly lifting carefully, eventually it will pop off.

4. Apply your new badge - job done

Just make sure your delicate with the ruler and don't be too heavy handed, anyone can do it - simples!

First wind the window right down and pull off the inner door seal like this. Its only a push fit but might have a bit of glue in to hold it on.

Next remove the door card and carefully pull down the plastic sheet underneath. You have to replace this after. Mine was held in with what looks like a bit of Silicon. This should reveal the 3 nuts that hold the window in. This is the middle one. You may have to wind the window up or down so you can get at them.

Remove the 3 nuts. As i said the middle and rear are easy. The front one is not. The way i did it was to wind the window right up. You can then look down through the front of the window and guide the crow foot spanner on from inside the door. You will need some patience. Once you have done that, pull the 3 brackets and studs off the bottom supporting rail and lift the window out. Tilting it backwards i found is the easiest way.

If your really lucky wacko.gif you will find a couple of them have come unstuck so you can do a proper job of it biggrin.gif As in this pic.

More of that later. These are the clips that hold in the waist seal. I pushed them down with a screwdriver and caught them. This was surprisingly easy.

This is the old one off the car showing the rust inside. The new ones are aluminium inside so should be better.

Right now Liz has gone out ive retired to the kitchen table in the warm smile.gif You can also remove the Window support rail once the window is out as in this pic. It runs on a couple of nylon rollers on the winder mechanism.

All you have to do then is clean all the old glue off the window. I used a kitchen knife. I also used the holes in the rail to realign the brackets to glue them back on. If you have to glue all 3 back on you can mark the position of the brackets on the window using some tape. Here it is done waiting to dry. I used Evo stick seriously strong stuff glue. I used this on the passenger side a while ago and its still stuck so it seems ok.

After you have taken the seal off the door you are left with this mess. The seal was also stuck on with a bit of Silicon or something. I removed the mess with white spirit and elbow grease.

I also put a small bead of bathroom clear silicon on the new seal like so.

Now for the slightly tricky bit, the retaining clips. I found the best way was to open the clips slightly with a suitable sized screwdriver ( same one :-) ) You have to make sure the clips go over the door inner lip as well as the seal. When they are in position remove the screwdriver. You might be able to find a easier way but it worked for me. Dodgy pic but it gives you a idea.

A pic of the new seal in place. It looks a lot better.

Something I nearly forgot. Also make sure the front and rear glass guide channels still have the rubber / felt liners in place. These can get out of position and / or fall out. This causes the window to rattle as well. A dodgy pic of the rear channel but it gives you an idea.

A Final pic now its finished and all back together smile.gif Also a tip to get the front nut back on. I stuck it to the end of my finger using a blob of grease. It worked for me. Have fun tongue.gif

Location (Series 1)

Printed on the VIN label, which can be found by lifting the front bonnet and looking on the right hand windscreen frame buttress.

Touch Up Paint

Official Lotus site

• Poorly set boot catch
• Stiff catch or cable
• Broken cable

If the cable is intact then request an accomplice to 'jiggle' the bootlid whilst pulling on the catch. More often than not the catch will release and the bootlid come up.

If the cable is broken toward the handle, it is possible to remove the rear offside wheel liner and reach in and pull on the cable.

If, despite all other attempts, the boot lid will not come open it is possible to remove the number plate and drill a hole (c.15mm) in the centre of number plate aperture in the rear clam. A suitable implement such as a screwdriver can then be used to trigger the catch. Although this sounds extreme, the hole is easilly covered by a grommet or tape followed by the numberplate and therefore not noticeable when reassembled.

If the bootlid repeatedly sticks due to poor alignment then the pin should be adjusted (see below).

?After removing the existing door pin it was obvious what the dealer was explaining to me. I fitted the two plastic washers from the original pin and one new washer that was supplied by the seller onto the new door pin and started to refit the new door pin. Getting the pin to grip the thread on the nut was a little difficult but this only took me 2 or 3 minutes.

New Door Pins from Ebay

• coins, stones, etc under the seats
• loose rear window (check the retaining metal clips)
• something rattling about behind the dash (a sod of a job)
• heatshield. the one on the exhaust manifold can be really annoying - give it a wiggle and make sure its secure.
• front access panel (bonnet) clipping the windscreen - this can be adjusted with the 3 screws on the hinge.

I softened the spray bar in boiling water to straighten out the odd curve at the end, then put it around the lumpy fitting at the end of the S1 wiper using a small tie-wrap at the loped end. Two extra pin-holes and the water sprays the full length of the wiper. Most people seem to put the end of the bar just before the middle of the blade. It's easy enough to take apart and loop around to the top of the wiper instead though, that said even though the arm only covers the bottom of the wiper the force of the wiper moving throws the water up the screen covering the whole window anyway.

• Curvature of the screen
• Length of blade
• Speed of blade due to single arm arrangment

The arm and blade arrangement fitted to Series 1's and early Series 2's are particularly renowned for there poorness. It is difficult to tell whether it is age related (as most S1 blades are now relatively old) or a design problem (the spring in the arm and across the blade being insufficient). Various options are available:-

• Replace the S1 / early S2 blade assembly with an identical replacement
• Replace the wiper arm and blade for a 'Series 2' type (that are fitted to the majority of Series 2, except very early ones)
• Replace the blade only, e.g. with a JML Wonder Wipers item or similar.

The Series 1 type can be identified by the traits that it cannot be lifted 90deg to the screen (without breaking!) and it uses an 'R' clip to retain the blade assembly on the arm. The Series 2 assembly is a conventional blade with integral plastic clip that holds it on the arm.

All three options have been successfully tried. Replacing the arm and wiper for an S2 type has the advantage that once the new arm is fitted the blade assemblies are standard parts available from high street vendors, whereas the S1 types are a special Lotus item. The replacement blade option is very cost effective with some excellent feedback reported.