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Lotus Elise S1 Honda Conversion

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New Door Pins

One of the more popular mods over the years has been replacing the original door pins with the slightly thicker pins from either Eliseshop or Eliseparts.


Now, before I replaced mine, I didn't quite realise just how much my doors rattled during normal driving or even worse, when you hit a pothole or something.


This mod is straight forward and took me about 10mins to complete, however I have read elsewhere with some folks taking them as long as an hour to line up the doors.


Note: One thing that I did is ensure that I took note of the tidemarks around the existing door pins, with a view to use these to align the new ones. This worked like a charm. Apart from some really minor adjustments, the door worked pretty much straight away.










The transformation is amazing. My car is generally rattle free, but by just adding this simple mod, all the sudden it has transformed it into a large german saloon :)


I am very pleased.


Led Fog Lights

For some time now, I have been keen to do two things. Firstly, add a bit of symmetry by adding another revers light, and secondly move the fog light to the where the original reflector light is.


What held up things was the fact that I needed a round LED light that would fit the original reflector recess. Anyway, they finally did it.


Credits: Thanks to Matt C for finally finding the right type of LED required for this application. One of the brighter minds :)


What you need:


1. Drill
2. Wiring loom - red and black
3. Screwdriver
4. Tape, connectors, soldering iron
5. Wiring heat shielding tape or tube
6. Additional reverse light unit (one)
7. LED round fog lights (two) - some now could be found on fleabay, but not sure whether quality ranges depending on the supplier.




The fitting is pretty simple and if you have some very basic electrical understanding and can handle a drill, you would be able to get this done pretty simply.


1. Remove the original fog light and make a wiring loom to extend the reverse light to the foglight location.


2. Install the new reverse light, giving you two reverse lights


3. Make a new wiring loom to extending the fog light feed to the new location, by the two round reflector lights.
















Job done.


It took about two hours end to end with some breaks and taking time getting it all done. I think that the final finish is very good so lets see how long it will last. Some LED units are poorly made and they start dropping out after a while, but we shall see.


As for now, I am pretty pleased.


Dash Cam

The popularity of dash cams seems to have increased immensely over the last couple of years, no doubt driven by the Russian YouTube videos and awareness around 'cash for cash' cons.


The range of webcams our there is mind blowing. In my daily driver, I have a Blackvue, wireless version which is probably one of the best in the market and looking at some of the captured videos, it would be hard to disagree.


My Choice


Personally, I wanted to install something that was both small and low cost. Given the fact that the car spends most of its time without the roof on, I couldn't really justify installing an expensive and visible dashcam that could be tempting to the scoundrels out there.


So, I went for the mini dash cam off Ebay, for about £20. Now, I am convinced that mine is some sort of Chinese copy, but the real version is about £60 or so on the web.


This is the one I went for. The newer versions have both GPS and a small viewing screen. Mine is the absolute basic.







The kit is very simple. It comes with a positive, a negative, a trigger wire (connected to the ACC) and photo connectors should you want to connect it up to an external monitor.


For me, the simplest place to route power from was from the feeds to the stereo, so I removed the radio, part of the dash and decided on the wire routing.








I have seem the dash cams mounted in various positions around the cabin, but after several test positioning, I decided on mounting it just behind the rear view mirror as high up the screen as possible.


Interestingly, the rear view mirror is slightly off-set to the left, which leaves plenty of room to mount the camera pretty much on the centre of the car.


Cable/ Wire Routing


Unlike 'normal' cars, it is very hard to hide the wires as it is so bare everywhere, however I decided on running the wires across the dash (ie inside the dash) to the right hand side, then tightly run it up the A pillar on the windscreen and across the top, back to the camera location in the centre.









Final Results


Once again, the end results are pretty good. I am very happy with the fact that its there, but not. I hardly notice that its there and unless you are looking for it, you will not see it.





I am pretty happy with that!!


Lotus Elise Side Skirts

This is a mod that I have been thinking about for a while now. Doing my research over the years, it seems that there several options out there, made from various materials, ranging from carbon fibre to plywood. Now, having choices is a good thing, but one thing I struggled with was the cost. Hence me trying to come up with a solution of my own.


The Design


I was keen to design something that looked good, looked functional ( you can never test these things unless you have a proper wind tunnel I guess) and given that this was to go on an S1, it had to look elegant and not over powering.


The other design consideration was how much the skirts should potrode out. I really didn't want something that came out so far that I would have to remember that it's there everytime I stepped in/ out of the car. So, it had to be a simple design.


With these considerations in mind, I went for curvy lines, taking a nice line to the form of the car, linking the front to the back. Worked pretty well.




This was always going to be a headache. I initially considered using existing bolts, holding the undertray, but I discounted this as this would mean having to remove the side skirts every time you need to remove the undergrays. That, to me, is not going to be practical.


So, next was to bolt the boards to the underside of the sills. This seemed to be the best option and the decision was more around whether to go with large bolts, with less mounting points or smaller bolts, but with more mount points, which would inevitably mean more holes to the underside of the sills.


After consulting a good friend of mine (its always useful to know an Engineer smile.png ) He advised me to go with the larger mounts and keep the number of holes to be drilled down.




As noted above, the choice is vast and the limit seems to be cost, ie you could end up with very complex shapes and forms using carbon fibre, with the added manufacturing cost or you could go with a simple shape and material. As money always matters, I went for the simpler material.


So, what did I end up with. Well, after some research, I ended up with an aluminum composite that is not only very strong, but very light. In fact, each side only weigh 700lbs! I think that's pretty good.


CREDIT: Although I came up with the design, using cardboard, I was lucky enough to have had the service's of my Friend's Dad, who is an absolute wizz when it comes to using CAD. He took my cardboard cutout and turned it into a digital masterpiece! Thank you Dad!




Or shall I say cutting. I manage to find a good engineering firm in Birmingham who were willing to take the CAD drawing, load it up onto their system and cutout the side skirts to spec. They did a great job. For future runs, I will add the mounting holes now that I know where they should be.




Installation is pretty straight forward and it would be even easier if I had a ramp. Anyway, in the absence of a good ramp, I used my trusted jack and pushed the car up enough to get an axial stand under the car, whilst allowing me enough room to work on the sills.


TIP: If you are going to use a single jack, please, please ensure that you use axial stands, and get some chocks on the other side, ie on the wheels that are on the ground. I also use a bit of wood to ensure that I don't end up damaging the underside of the car with the jack.


Mounting Points


As this was the first time offering the skirts up to the car, we (yes, another pair of hands would be advantageous) spend some time locating the skirt board and deciding where best to mount the holes. We ended up with 5 mount points that given the size and the weight, was more than enough for what we are looking to do.


We marked the points on the boards, taped them together and drilled the holes. Once done, we then placed the board on the sill, taped it in place and once happy, drilled the sills using a 2mm drill. We had to drill very slowly and deliberately as we weren't sure where the coolant pipes were.








WARNING: If you are going to drill into the sills, please remember that you have coolant pipes running through there. My car is also CC, with additional pipes running to the front radiator. Be very, very careful how you do it. You are warned.


By taking the drill slow, when it broke through it, it was easy to feel whether or not there was something on the other side. Either way, you would have to be very careful.




Then, slowly enlarging the holes by using a larger drill.


I finally used a wood tool to curt 16mm hole for the M8 rubber well nuts.






(note the jack position and the bit of wood smile.png )


Then once all the well nuts were in place, it was just a simple matter of bolting the boards on.




The end results - well, see for yourself. I am rather pleased...thumbs_up.gif










That is a job well done! clap.gifcool.png




Well, I am yet to workout the total cost, however it was significantly less than £200 for the pair. If there is enough interest, I may get a few made (which should drive the cost down somewhat). So, if you like what you see, let me know and I am sure I could sort something out, again, depending on the numbers.


Now available on www.111racing.co.uk


Like most folks who own these little cars, it sometimes ends up sitting in the garage for weeks on end, especially during the winter months. Traditionally, what I tended to do is lift up the front bonnet and connect a trickle charger every time I suspect that I am not going to be driving it for a while.


This method works well, however it is a right pain in the back side as you would then have to pop the bonnet again, remove the terminal before driving the car out. Over the years I have toyed with various options, bought various connectors etc, considered an external port mounted on various places around the car, but none of them really worked - until I came across this.


Before going any further, I must give credit to Matt C (here on MLOC and SELOC) for finding the right type of connector and how best to locate it. All credit goes to him for the idea.


What you need:-


1. Trickle charger - there are so many out there, just make sure its one of the more intelligent ones that can switch between charging and conditioning. I previously had a very basic one and after a year or so, it killed my battery. Be warned - stay away from the cheap ones!


2. External port connector. Matt found this on the web and works well. Its waterproof and the fitting is very good. 12v 24v Male Female Din Accessory Power Plug Socket Connector 16A Hella http://r.ebay.com/8gk7Bi In case the link goes out of date, just search for the description, you should be able to find it. (If anyone finds a better connector, please share by commenting below)





3. Tin cutters or similar. You will need to cut a hole on you front grill


4. Glue gun - I will explain below


5. Waterproof connector. There are many options out there to be honest, but you will need a way of disconnecting the external port to allow you to remove/ mount the front grill. This will have to be a two wire connector.


Well, that's it really.




I first removed the grill from the car and decided on where I was going to place the connector. This will have to be your choice, but consider:-


1. Visibility from a person standing in front of the car. I really didn't want the port, although covered with a black cap, to be visible from the front.

2. Ensure that there is enough space around and behind the mounting point to receive the connector assembly. You will need some room behind for sure.

3. Protection from elements. So, as this is going to be at the front, it will get wet if its raining, however my logic is that you will give it some protection, say whilst stationary if you place the port higher up, ie towards the top part of the clam.


Once happy, cut the hole at the chosen location.


Note: Please, please, please note that you will need a hole much smaller than you think. Start small and work your way out. You need it to be pretty tight in fitting as although the connector has a binding nut that goes in from the back, you really don't want to just rely on that. Vibrations etc may work it loose at some point.


Once cut, push the connector though the hole and place the nut from the rear.









Wire up the back - this will be the run back to the battery.


Note: Make sure that the centre of the connector is positive (+) and the the outer case is negative (-). This way you don't end up with grill being live!


Make a note of which wire is which as you will need to know this once you complete the run from the battery to the connector.


So, the glue. I providing the connectors at the back of the assembly with better protection from the elements and vibrations, I used hot glue gun to hold everything in place and ziptied a bicycle tube to cover the whole thing. Again, if you find a better way of achieving the same thing, please comment below for everyone's benefit.







Then all that I did was run the positive and negative feeds from the battery, round the nearside wheel arch and fished it though the bottom of the clam to the vent hole at the front. You may find it easier to use a wire pushed down from the vent opening and then pulled towards the wheel (you can reach in through the liner - no need to remove the wheel) then tape the wires together and pull back through to the front. I hope I explained that well.






I then terminated the wires into a waterproof connector and then connected it all together.




Job done.


I must say, it works really well and now, I just pull in, lift the cap up and connect - job done.



Enjoy - again any comments, contributions etc, please comment and share.




Throttle Pedal Linkage

This is an upgrade that I have been considering for some time now. As most of you S1 owners will know, the original OEM throttle pedal plate and linkage are not the best. I get movements in all directions that has no impact on the actual throttle movement, basically, its bloody wobbly.


In the end, I decided to take the plunge and buy Eliseparts' version and see what I get.



The kit.


The kit itself is pretty basic, you get the control arm, bearings, washers and bolts. That is it really.




Tools Required:


1. Screw Driver

2. Spanner, size 7 and 8mm

3. 1/4 inch combi set, including socket size 7 and 8mm,

4. Long nose pliers


Oh, you also get pretty good instructions. The instructions are pretty simple to follow and just be methodical in the approach. The rest will be pretty simple really.



Removal of the existing throttle cable installation


Now, I am not a really big guy, but I struggled to get under the dash any other way other than swinging my legs up in the air, with my back on the chair/ floor and my head under the dash. Its not the most flattering position, however it seems to work for me. Just watch your head as you come up for air. biggrin.png



I am not going to run through the steps (as the instructions that come with the kit are very good) instead, I am going to share some photos.











As you can see from the photo above, the original arm moved quite a lot.




See the 'bump' stop rubbing on the main mount plate.






The new setup with the uprated bearings feels a lot more controlled. One thing to note at this point, do not over tighten the bolt. It just needs to be enough to hold the assembly in place, otherwise you will feel it on the throttle.




Note: So, reinstalling is also a pain in the butt activity, however I found that by getting on my back, with the feet over the rollover bar, I can quite comfortably work under there. :D - it looks strange though.




This is one of the best value/gain mods I have done. The mod works really well and the throttle feels so much more positive. I really wished I did this years back.


If you still have the original setup, just find some shillings and get this mod done. You will not regret it.


As for me, I am loving it smile.png


Charge Cooling


As per my other blog entries, as it stands the car now runs about 317bhp on the Jackson Racing Super Charger and oil cooler.


I am still running Stark's standard 4:2:1 exhaust manifold as I am yet to convince myself that I can shell out the £1K plus for a 4:1 system (watch this space smile.png )


Anyway, as always I try to do something new/ different when it comes to the upgrades, only in name of 'why not'.


So once I decided that I want to go down the CC route, it was a matter of deciding whether to go with the tried and tested route of a sandwich core or go for the in-core solution.


Sandwich core solution


As far as I can make it out, majority of SC Honda'd Elises out there have gone for the ProAlloy CC solution with the core sitting between the intake manifold and the SC.




1. Due to core's placement, all air coming through the manifold passes through the core before hitting the SC. This optimises the air cooling capabilities.


2. This is a well baked in solution and has been tried and tested by various companies and well proven on road and track.




1. I can only really think of one. Due to it's placement as above, the SC ends up sitting a little higher than original.



in-core Aftercooler solution


As made and produced by Mercracing.






1. The core sits inside the SC and therefore removing the need to raise the SC up, taking up more room in the engine bay

2. Very simple installation. The core and plate, replaces the blanking plate at the bottom of the SC.

3. Very good price point.




1. As the core sits inside the SC, there is a concern that it will reduce the effective volume of the SC and therefore impact the amount of air available to be pushed into the engine.

2. As the core sits inside the SC, it may act as a barrier effectively blocking the air coming into the SC

3. Although there is an additional plate, there is a chance that not all air will actually travel through the core and therefore cooled.


The kit list


My shopping list for the CC installation included:


1. Proalloy pre-rad

2. Two new fans (these are smaller than original to allow them to fit under the pre-rad)

3. Bosch electric water pump

4. Hoses and clips

5. CC tank resevoir

6. Core CC/ Aftercooler core








That's pretty much it for the CC.


Since the car was going to be pretty much in bits, I had some additional bits to go on...


1. DrH SC intake

2. Header Tank relocation ( including the bracket)





The Installation


As I have very limited time these days, I had to get someone else to carryout the work, so it was back to Gavin at Unit 4 and left the car in his capable hands.


The plan was to run:-


Core -> remote tank -> water pump -> pre-radiator -> core


The first task for Gavin was to remove both clams to allow an hindered access to all areas around the car.


The back...




The Front...




Prep Activities


1. Remove the main radiator - the pre-rad sits under the original radiator on the S1


2. Drill the holes on the right hand side of the car for the supply and return for the water runs


3. Install the grommets on the clam to stop the clam cutting the hoses over time.


4. Strip back the wiring loom to allow the AIT sensor to be relocated to the bottom of the SC, reading directly from the core.



The installation


1. Gavin run the two pipes through the chassis and the holes on the right hand side of the car linking the back to the front. This was pretty fiddly and perhaps one of the more difficult part of the installation.


2. Removed the old fans off the radiator


3. Installed the new, smaller fans on the pre-rad and then mounted the pre-rad onto the radiator.


4. Drilled two holes on the left hand side of the radiator cowl to allow access for the pre-rad supply and return pipes




5. The whole radiator assembly then gets installed with the pre-rad supply and return on the right hand side of the car.


6. Then he removed the SC and unbolted the blanking plate at the bottom of the intake manifold.




7. The aftercooler then gets mounted directly under the manifold with the core inside. Gavin used a new gasket and some liquid gasket to ensure no air leakages.




Core installed...





Note that the SC brace gets re-located to the bottom of the CC core.


8. The SC gets re-installed back in position and the pipes run from the supply and return pipes under the car.






Note: The space under the SC is very tight. There are various pipes running through there and getting enough clearance to allow the additional two pipes for the CC water supply is tricky. Gavin spent majority of a day getting the runs to work.


9. The remote header tank and Bosch water pump installed on the right hand side of the car, just behind oil filter.






Note: With hindsight, I should have opted to install a air bleed point somewhere near the remote tank. Without it, its making bleeding the system pretty hard work.


Also note that the pump is wired through a relay triggered by the fuel pump. This way, the water pump will only run when the fuel pump is running.


10. Fill up the system with coolant and run the pump. It will take some time to bleed the system and raising the rear, ie the highest point on the system will help with encouraging the bubbles to flow out to the tank reserve. Keep topping it up until all trapped air is removed.



Engine Coolant Reservoir Tank Relocation



In able to install Dr.H's straight through SC inlet manifold, the coolant tank has to be relocated to somewhere near the boot side of the engine bay.


Now, this is something that has been done several times elsewhere, however I opted for Dr H's (AKA Leigh) mounting bracket.


This was one of the more straight forward installations. Gavin tapped in a new bolting point and mounted the bracket as far back as possible.


This also provided an opportunity to tidy-up the fuel pump location, some of the fuel pipping around the area.





Note: In simple terms, in relocating the reservoir tank, all that you are doing is moving the T piece further up the line.






The installation looks pretty good. In time, I may decide to change the remaining red hoses for black, especially given the fact that all my original bling is all gone. sad.png


DrH's SC Manifold


A little background first. The inlet standard JRSC inlet is rather restricted. Whether the design was driven by necessity, ie due to its placement in Civic Type R engine bay or due for something a little bit more scientific, I am not sure. What is clear, the air being pulled through the standard manifold has to work in, up and then in before hitting the main manifold chamber.


Dr H's intake changes this by opening up the flow and removing all the unnecessary bends etc.



The intake...You got to love that red




Attached to the supercharger...






Installed on the car, before the bolting on of the throttle body and air intake pipe...




With the throttle body in place...









This solution is not tried and tested and myself and few others who went down this option are going to be testing as we go along. We are all excited to see whether or not this solution will yield any more power.


Final Result


The final results look really good. Curiously, the supercharger seems really quite compared to how it was prior to the upgrade and there is a thought that this is mainly due the new intake. We shall see.


Next step, dyno. biggrin.png








I am pretty happy with this.




Quick Update



I had the car re-mapped and I am really pleased with the numbers.




So, what did it make? In the end, the car produced 324bhp, with a small increase in torque! Given the setup and the 4:2:1 exhaust which must be on its limit, the numbers are pretty impressive. Romain felt that he could have pushed the engine a little bit further, but decided to keep the map on the safe side.


What is interesting, he felt that with a smaller pulley, the engine would produce a lot more power.


But for now, I am happy.


The graph can be seen here.




Side Air Scoops

This is one mod that I have been wresting with for a while. Although I have dramatically changed/ updated my car, one thing that I have been trying to do is keep the standard look.


Unfortunately, with the addition of the SC, the engine bay temps have gone up somewhat and reading through various forum entries, it seems pretty inconclusive as to whether or not the addition of the side scoops actually makes any difference at all.



As the car is far from being standard anymore, I finally decided to give it a try and see what happens.



I bought the CF scoops from Eliseshop, however there are all sorts of variations and options out there for an S1. It purely comes down to cost and personal preference. I have seen in some cases where the owner has had them painted to suit their own taste.


As for me, the CF look works.







Looks really good from the other side...







Glue, glue, glue!


Here is another area that I spent loads of time researching and speaking to various people who have done this before. It seems clear that the options on this a wide and varied and in some cases, people have opted to use rivets! Again, I believe it comes down to application and what your car is being used for.


Some of the more popular options:-

  • Sikaflex - I am told that as long you have prepped the area well, the bond will be pretty strong and it would take some doing to remove the scoops.

  • Tigerseal - Again, mega strong and will last you forever, but if you ever want to remove it, you may have to dance around the car for a bit as this stuff really sticks.

  • Rivets - Sometimes used in conjunction with the the bonds above.

All good options, however in the interest of being different and trying something new, I went down this route....






It seems pretty strong, however how long it would last is anyone's guess. I will report back.



Prep Work



I used brake cleaner to get rid of all surface grease and contaminants. I am sure you could use other methods, including white spirit.






I did the same on the scoops.



Positioning and Glueing



I then run a very thin bead of adhesive on the contact patch. I tried to keep this in the middle fully expecting it to spread out once pressed onto the body.




Not the most elegant of sights, but it works smile.png





I then carefully positioned it on the body/ rear clam and holding it in place with some masking tapes. It took the night for it to cure to full strength.











When placing the scoop in position, make sure that the edges are fully lined up and the door can be opened and closed unhindered.



Do both sides and then leave to cure.


It's interesting that once cured, the bests method I found to check on whether or not its stuck down adequately is to pull on them smile.png However the final proof of the pudding will be when you are pushing through the gears on the motorways. Mine remain on biggrin.png



Final Results


Given how long it took me to decide, I must say they look pretty good. This mod will not be for the purists out there, however I like it.


With regards to cooling effect, I am not really sure. The weather has been horrible most of the time so pretty hard to know whether or not it made a positive effect on the engine bay temps. I will update once I have clarity on this.


I like them indeed...










I have been toying with the idea of adding the headlight covers to the headlights for some years now. To be honest, the S1 looks really good both with and without the headlight covers, so it has never been something that I felt strongly about.


Anyway, I finally decided to give it a go.


The Covers


I bought the headlight covers from a chap selling them on eBay. These were originally purchased from Eliseparts and the chap never got round to fitting them on his car.




First step


As these covers tend to trap moisture, I decided to first clean the inside with rain-X. Now, I am no expert, but I thought that this would reduce condensation. Time will tell.






I then cleaned up area around the headlights, ensured that all the bugs and dirt is removed.








It is my understanding that the headlight covers can be fixed to the clam in various ways.


1. Rivited - I have seen this in various cars (mainly racing cars) but looks pretty ugly I would say, but effective.


2. Eliseparts supply with some 'goo' that can be used to fix the covers in place


3. Various 'super' adhesives - such as tigerseal. Not a fan as they tend to damage the paintwork if you ever decide to remove them.


But, I decided to go down the clear sealant route. This provides very strong adhesive, that is flexiable and is very good at sealing the covers in place.




After cleaning the area, I pushed out a thin, consistant bead all the way round the area...








Then carefully placed the light covers over the area and pressed to spread the sealant...




Looking good!




I approached the other side in exactly the same way.






In conclusion, I really like the look and I think it will keep on growing on me. As I said before, I think the S1 looks good with or without the covers.




As for now, this is another job done!


So, if you follow my blogs, you would have noticed that many years back, I installed a Head Up Display unit to project revs, shift lights, road speed onto the windscreen. This turned out to be a great mod that enable me to read where 'things' were during hard driving.




Now, I am not sure whether or not this happens to with other, more standard installations (ie shift lights right in front of you), however with time, my brain seemed to completely look through the HUD on the windscreen. This got so bad that, I now don't really notice that the display is there - and therefore completely useless to me in any condition.


So, I needed a solution.


Whist watching a F1 show, someone mentioned that most F1 cars now have a beeper system (in helmet) that allows the drivers to hear when best to shift up! Genius. This may be old news for some of you, however this was a revelation to me. So, I set off trying to make something similar of my own. Unfortunately, due to time and other family matters, I was unable to tinker enough to get a working prototype made, but during my research, I came across one company that is already doing this for Honda S2000 customers!


Modifry produce a product they call Redline Shift Beeper that seem to be answer to my prayers. So, without further delay, once was purchased...


What do you get


So, the kit is pretty comprehensive and comes with all that you will need to get the unit installed, apart from a couple of wires for the power supply.


The image below came straight from Modify's website and explains best what you get.




More details on the cost etc here



The installation


The installation on the Elise is actually pretty simple. You have 2 wires for the power supply and the third for the tachometer read.


1. Remove the column shrouding. There a number of screws here, so just work your way round.




2. Once the shroud is off, locate two bolts under the instrument binnacle holding the whole unit down. Un-do these and free up the Stack unit with its shroud. The large connector at the back simply unplugs by squeezing the blue safety clip down and pull.


3. Leverage out the trim around the light switches, exposing two screws holding the fascia in place.




4. Un-do these two screws and further two holding the top cover to the facial and remove




Note: To completely remove the light switches fascia, you will need to unplug them from behind. This is quite tight in space, but you should be able to get through to them.


5. Once completely all the wiring is completely exposed, locate the tachometer wire from the big connector removed at the back of the Stack unit. Please check with you Elise manual for the correct colouring as I have seen the colours changing from loom to loom.


6. Once located, 'tap' the tacho reader wire from the beeper system into it.




7. Locate a ground and positive feed for the power supply. For me, I chose to use power cables running to the bank switch on the dash. These are only energised on ignition.




Note: At this point, its worth connecting up the rest of the unit as per instruction manual and put it into test mode. This mode allows you to validate that you are receiving the right tacho feed and its linear as with RPM increase. The beeps will remain at a constant interval at idle and quicken as the revs increase.


8. Once happy that all is working as it should, I would spend some time tying things up including deciding where best to place the sounder and the controller.


9. Route all the wires to the appropriate locations and check lengths location etc.




10. Re-instate the instrument binnacle and the switches.


11. Attach the sounder and the controller to its final location. I used Velcro for this.




12. Set the maximum change point and the intervals between beeps.


Note: For that initial testing, I suggest that you set this at lower RPM so that you don't have to rev the nuts out of your car in checking whether or not it works. This can be raised to the final point once happy.






I set my shift point at 8,600 rpm and after a few test runs, I can honestly say I am pretty impressed. I will have to 'tune' my ear to the the sound and rythem of the beeps, however as I accelerate, I hear beep, beep, beep then change. Bloody brilliant and much better than the HUD I have.


Some people have been concerned that the sounder would not be loud enough for track activities, especially if wearing a helmet. Well, the sounder is really, really loud and can be placed anywhere. You may have to experiment with various locations before you find one that works for you.


Mine is within the foot well and at maximum RPM, with the charger screaming, I can still hear the beeps very clearly. If I wanted it to be louder, I would move it higher up to face me.


I can fully recommend this mod. Check compatibility with the company, but I can't see why it would not work with all engine variants.


I am beeptastic! toot.gif


A video from their site...





Quick Update


Its been some months now (over a year) since I had the beeper installed and I must say they are great. Once you get used to the peep, peep, peep, change rhythm, its amazing how well it works. One of my better mods for sure.


Oh, as a side, depending on how you use your car, you will need to think about where you place the sounder. I initially had it mounted by my feet, but in the end I had to move it to the coin tray on the driver side. It maybe better still placed just behind the driver's head?


One of the most irritating thing about the standard key is the attached Cobra alarm scrotum. It's cumbersome and it does tend to break off. For years now, a few people have had a go at coming up with a workable alternative that would combine the key, with the alarm fob to have a more integrated key - pretty much inline with most car manufactures these days.


Unikey (I believe produced by Blackwatch racing) was the last real attempt at this, and reading the forums, it seems that they are currently working on an alternative/ updated version. I have also seen the 'flick' key conversion, again it looks as if it would work pretty well and looks good.


My problem has always been that I did not want to pay a huge amount of money for something that I consider a minor annoyance and I also wanted something that looked pretty close to what OEM would have looked like. I like to have my cake and eat it too!!


So, after years of searching, I finally came across something that seemed to fit the bill.


What do you need


1. Blank key fob - After some searching, I came across the Smart Roadster blank replacement key on eBay. What makes it perfect is the fact that its round, small and have plenty of space inside to accommodate the Cobra internals. Oh, its also very cheap - less than £10!!


2. Some double sided sticky pads


3. Corsa cheap blank key - From your local Blacksmith.


4. Dremmel or equivalent.


5. Superglue or equivalent


6. Hacksaw


7. A Vice - or a way of holding the key steady for the cutting





1. Once you have all the ingredients in place, start by preparing the blank Smart key. Open it up and firstly remove the key by unscrewing the little screw holding it in place. Once that's out of the way, dremmel away the little stubs in the 'shell' to form an empty cave.


Note: Do not remove the outer studs as these help to hold the two sides together and maintain the integrity of the structure.



2. Get the blank Corsa key cut to suit your existing key and using a vise and hacksaw, 'trim' the grip element of the key down so that you remain with just the metal centre, and an extended key length.


Note: That what you are trying to achieve here is good enough length to allow the key to be inserted into the new holder, whilst still providing enough key to enable it to function in the key barrel.


3. Existing key fob. Open up the existing key fob and remove the Cobra internals. Please be careful in handling the internals as they can easily be damaged.


4. Prepare the sticky pads and have them ready to go in.




1. Place the Cobra internals into the new 'shell' and line up the buttons so that the main button is directly under the large 'lock' button. Whist doing this, ensure that the second button (the sensor disabling button) is lined up with the second button.




Note: It is important that you ensure that the main button lines up directly underneath, however the second button will be slightly off centre. Don't worry about this too much as I find that it still functions pretty well. Its hardly used anyway smile.png




2. Once you are happy that you placement is workable, please use the double sticky pads to hold the cobra unit in place. This will ensure that the unit does not move under normal circumstances.




3. Check the fitting, by gently placing the other half of the blank fob. I had to dremmel away a couple of there places, but this will purely be dependent on how you place the Cobra internals. Once happy, you can close the top and test.


Warning: Be gentle in closing off the other half. You run a huge risk of damaging the internals. Also be aware that if its too tight, the buttons on the internals will be depressed as such re-set the fob. Be careful and methodical.


4. Once happy with the fitting of the main part, you can now start working on the key. The key needs to be trimmed slightly to ensure that its tapered at the end to allow you to push the key into the slot. It needs to be tapered so that it jambs in the slot. I used the vice and a metal file to grind it down slightly.






5. Once you are happy that the key fits in nicely, I would advise you that you then use a touch of strong glue in the hole before pushing in the key and letting it set.




Finishing Touches


Before the glue is completely set, try the door and the ignition key to ensure that you have allowed enough length on the key for it to function correctly. Once set, you can now start adding those finishing touches to make it perfect.






I opted to buy some sticky Lotus logos and placed one on both sides of the key. It works pretty well and seems to give a very OEM look. Its your choice on this one.








After many years of searching for a perfect, workable solution, I am very pleased with the end results. They key works well, I don't have additional dangley bits, it looks bloody good and best of all, its CHEAP!!! My kind of mod.


If you try this, I hope it works out for you, but once again, please oh please be careful and methodical. fear2.gif


As for me, I can call this job done!! afro.gif





Quick update


So, I have been using my version of key for some years now and worked really well and looked the part. Certainly for the money, I don't think there is a better way of smarting up your standard Corsa key.


Anyway as any Lotus ownership is all about trying to improve and patch-up the car, I decided to try another version. The approach to this one is very similar to the original idea in as much as the Cobra internals will fit okay, however there is a certain amount of messing about to get the buttons line up right and placed into position.


Without going into too much detail, you will have to smooth-out the internals and by using sticky pads, place the alarm internals in the right position. Its trial and error, but you will get it in the end.


Donor key fob came from Land Rover Discovery Series 2 I think. These are about £6 on ebay...





The back...




I think its a very nice shape and very similar to the new OEM key in size.


The key comes with a blank key and all that you want from this is the end, black plastic holder which you will use to hold your new key in the fob. There is a retaining pin in place that you will just need to knock out.





As you can see, the fit is pretty good.






Please note: In terms of replacing they key, there may be other, easier ways, however all that I did was get a normal cheap key cut, I then removed the holding part by cutting it off with a hack saw, I then shaped the end to match the width of the blank key.


Once that was done, I then drilled a hole through the key (please ensure you use the original blank key as a template for the location) then replaced the plastic end bit ready to push back into the main fob.


After about an hour of messing about, this is what I ended up with. It is very comparable with the original one in terms of quality, however this is smaller in form and fits into the steering column/ starter area a lot better.





Compared to the original one...





Total cost, about £8:00, including the new key. It requires a bit of effort and some Blue Peter magic, but it certainly worth the effort.




As you may have read on the conversion entries, as part of the Stark kit, they provide you with a gear linkage assembly that bolts to the back of the gearbox. You end up having to remove the Honda original assembly, along with the original selection weight.


I have seen the gear cables being routed in two ways.


1. Through the front of the bulkhead and up between the firewall and the engine


2. Through underside of the engine, then up to meet the gear assembly on top of the gearbox housing. This option often retains the original gear selector setup, including the weight.


Mine however, is option 1 as supplied by Stark.


A bit of history:-


Following the original installation some years back, the gear setup was pretty good and always worked well enough for me. However after a year or so, on of the pivot hinges broke whilst out driving, resulting in me limping back home in third.


I attempted a fix for this, which was basically a single bold with a nyloc bolt to hold the hinge in place. This worked to some extend. It was always a battle between stiffness (by making tightening the bolt) and usability ( by loosening the bolt), but it makes the gear selection less precise.


Although this worked for a while, it eventually proved un-workable and proved to be completely unusable :death: . so I needed a solution.


After contacting Stark, they informed me that they now have an uprated version of the gear linkage that uses bigger/ stronger bearings. This, I am told, should resolve all issues and bring back the correct feel.


However, after seeing his post on Seloc, I contact TurboHarry and inquired about his amazing gear linkage. It turns out that this was something that he designed and made and was prepared to sell one to me! :clap:


The pioneer in me could not help but come to an agreement with Harry and he duly sent me one over.i


The original assembly removed...




Harry's setup went pretty much straight in and once the cables were located, it was a matter of messing around with the setup, making minor adjustments all round until the feel/ selection was perfect.


This assembly is a work of art. In fact, it should be on a mantle piece displayed, rather than on a car. Its simply awesome! B):tup:


This is the assembly on the car...




I have now spent some time driving the car with Harry's kit and I can confirm that the car has never felt better. The gear selections are assured, precise and an absolute pleasure to use. I can honestly say, my gear selection has never been better.




Having a stiff and well configured gear selection assembly is critical in ensuring that you get a good gear selection feel. Harry's solution seems to be just about the best out there, when it comes to Honda'd Elises.


Warning: For this level of engineering, the gear assembly is not cheap at all. It's an expensive option, however you will get what you pay for and for that, its still good value.



I am a happy chappie :cheers:


Jdm Cams Upgrade

One of the simplest engine upgrade is to get the OEM cams swapped out with something a bit more aggressive. Once again, the forums are full of details around which cams are the best depending on what you are looking to achieve.


As for me, Toda A3 is where I really want to end up, however I am advised that for this, I will need to upgrade the springs too. Toda cams are somewhat expensive too.


In getting me on my way, I decided to start off with the simplest cam upgrade. I bought a set of JDM cams of an Ebay seller and had Gavin install them on the car.


Speaking to Gavin, he tells me that he was able to do the work without removing the rear clam, however He did have to jack up the engine a little to give himself a bit more room to lock the cam chain in place.


Oh, he also took this opportunity to check and adjust all valve clearances and this has made a big difference to the way the engine sounds. I had a lot of tappety noises and they have all gone. Honda recommends doing this every 60 - 100K miles ( I read)


Cams going in...




Initial thoughts.


Well, not much has changed. The JDM cams only increases duration and for that you should be able to call on a bit more mid range torque. For this, there will be a need to get the car re-mapped.


I will update the entry once I the car has been remapped on the new cams. Until then, you just have to wait! :mrt:


Quick update:


I had the car re-mapped by Romain (Euro-spec 2000) and results were pretty good.


Being reversed onto the Dyno...




One of the runs...




The engine has gained a noticeable amount of mid range torque and a little bit of power. We found 5bhp on the top end and 10 torques ( a little bit more in places) at mid range.


On the go, you can really feel the smoothness of the power delivery and it just pulls really hard a linearly to the limiter.




So, the question is, is it worth the investment? Well, yes and no. If you are looking for big power gains, then I would suggest that you consider some of the other cams, together with spring upgrades etc. But, if you want to squeeze a bit more usable power from your current setup, then this is a cheap way of upgrading the engine. I shopped around and ensured that I didn't pay too much money for the cams and avoided buying new. This is the best way of purchasing.


Am I happy? Yes!


Oil Pressure Gauge

Some years back, I knocked up digital gauges that I managed to squeeze in dash and covered with sunglasses lens.


I was very keen not to have additional gauges mounted on the dash, spoiling the interior simplicity of the S1 dash. By getting the digital gauge 'hidden' in the dash, they are only visible once the car is on, however they are completely disguised when the car is off. The overall effect is pretty good.










When I originally installed the gauges, I run the wire for the sender unit through the centre tunnel and into the engine bay. This has remained in this state for a number of years, I guess waiting for me to bother to do something with it.


Anyway, following the conversion and the SC installation, I decided to get the right bits and pieces to get it working.


Required kit:-


1. Oil filter sandwich plate (got mine from eBay)


2. Due to engine vibrations and the weight of the oil pressure sender unit, it is important to ensure that the vibration of the engine does not cause joint failure. I isolating the installation, I opted for a length of tube that will screw onto the sandwich plate on one side and the other, the pressure sender. Speed-flow made up something for me that seems to be just the ticket.




3. Oil pressure sender. I bought this as part of the original gauge purchase.


The installation.


Again, due to work commitment, I did not have the time to do this work myself. So, I turned to trusty Gavin again.



Due to previous work, I already had the remote oil filter mount installed (see separate entry) so it was a matter of using the sandwich plate and bolt the setup together.




If you have an oil filter on the original location, you may struggle to get enough room to fit a sandwich plate and the oil filter without hitting the subframe.


Installation in place...





Oil filter now in place. Note that the extension is run separately in isolating the transmission of vibration through the install.






At start up, the oil pressure seem to start off at around 99, but then settles at around 55 once warm. At high speed, it goes back up again to round 99. The gauge works pretty well, but I am sure it will just give me something else to worry about :)


As for now, I am pretty happy that this installation is finally complete!!


So, nothing seems to divide opinions more that what brake (friction pads) to use for what application. I for one, have tried various compounds over the years and yet to really settle with a favourite.


Of late, I have been running SBS Pros all round and to be honest, I found them to be a big step from the Green stuff I used to have. Once hot, they have pretty good and progressive feel, with very little fade when pushing hard on track. To be honest, the only issue that I have with them is that they squeal a lot under normal driving. This does prove quite tiresome after a while.


Anyway, although they are not completely gone, I decided to swap up (I hope) to CL5. Search online and the forums are full of in-depth details on CL5s. All-in-all, general opinion is rather positive.




Pros I could find:-


1. Work well from the off. No need to get them hot before receiving good bite from them.

2. Good for fast road and track.

3. No fade under heavy use.





1. For some reason, they seem to rattle a lot. It is recommended that you use a fair bit of anti rattle pads to keep the movements to a minimum.

2. Some batches (not sure how wide spread this issue is) seem to result in crumbling pads! I hope that this has now been resolved.


Anyway, I got Gavin at Unit 4 to swap them over for me and as expected, he had to order additional anti-rattle pads to stop the clunking caused by cross drilled discs as you drive.






Initial thoughts.


I am yet to really push on these pads, however the initial feel is every good. I certainly seem to get better under-foot feel and has smoothed out the heal & toe change down under breaking. I will update this entry once I get more mileage and perhaps a couple on track action.


As it stands, I am pleased with the swap and its money well spent.


Time for more installations.


As you may have noticed reading through the installation, I opted not to install an oil cooler and upgrade the standard radiator as part of the original installation.


Apart from time, I really wanted to see whether or not the charger installation would work effectively without having the need to install these two elements - partly from a tech's point of view and cost.

Thoughts on the installation


After running the car for some months now and covering over 1,000 miles, it is now clear that the supercharger adds considerable amount of heat to the engine. The engines gets so hot that you pretty much feel it through the bulkhead.


This resulted in enormous amount of heat soak, especially pulling off the motorway after a prolonged drive.


So, would a supercharger installation require an oil cooler and uprated radiator? Absolutely! Especially if you are going to drive the car hard on the road, let alone on the track.


So, I had to dig deep and get spending.

Kit List


I bought all that I need for the water to oil cooler, including the remote oil filter mounts from ThinkAutomotive. Those chaps know their onions and if you discuss with them what you need, they will get the list sorted out for you.


The uprated Aluminium radiator came from Eliseparts, including the twin fan mounts and an additional fan (to run in tandem with the OEM one.




So, before I detail the installation, I need to confess that, for once, I did not do the installation. I currently far too much going on at home that it was far easier for me to get someone to do it.


After some investigation, I ended up taking the car to Unit 4 garage, in Burton-on-trent (http://www.unit4vehicleservices.co.uk/). Gavin is one of those guys who is completely dedicated to his work and his attention to detail is absolutely amazing. He pretty much looked after my car as if it was his own.


I would recommend him with no hesitation.


So, to the installation...




I dropped the car off at Unit 4 and explained the required work...




The bits to be installed....







Firstly, Gavin removed both clams for ease of access...






Oil Cooler


As described in the introduction, I purchased all the bits I needed for the installation from Thinkautomotive. I went for the largest Mocal water to oil cooler, braided hoses, remote oil filter housing and all the connectors.




It is recommended that when you install up-rated oil cooler, you remove the OEM one. To do this, you need to purchase a shorter bolt from Honda - HONDA part 90015-PH1-013. They retail about £5.00




Challenge number one:


Is the routing of the new braided oil hoses from the original oil filter position to the remote oil filter mount.


This has been done several ways before.


1. Hose to run across the engine, towards the left of the engine bay to a location above the gearbox.


2. Up, then to the right side of the engine bay. This has one draw back - it requires the manifold corner webbing to be removed. This is not ideal at all.


3. Run towards the left, then down behind the intermediate drive-shaft, curl over to the right and into the area above the right hand wheelarch liner.


Gavin played around with various options and found the best one to be option 3. This requires that the braided hoses to be very flexible as the radius required are very tight.


Challenge number two:


Where to mount the remote oil filter housing.


Once again, this has been done several ways in the past. These include:-


1. Mounting it on the gearbox. Using one of the bolt holes


2. Mounting it on the clam divider between the engine bay and the boot.


3. Mounting on the chassis, ie drilled directly onto the aluminium chassis in the cavity on the right hand side of the engine bay.


4. Mounted on the right hand side brace.


Gavin went for option 4. This location has several advantages. Firstly, it is independent to the rear clam and avoids damaging the chassis in any way. And secondly, it has a slight advantage in the fact that the oil filter will be placed directly in front of the side scoop, that may aid in cooling.


The oil take off plate at the original oil filter position...




Brace rubbed down and new bracket welded into place...




Bracket painted black and oil filter mount placed in position...






All plumbed in and looking good so far.




Routing under the engine, through behind the intermediate drive shaft...



Aluminium Radiator


With the additional heat loads from the engine and the oil cooler, I decided to get the radiator upgraded. I opted for the largest Aluminium radiator available, with a twin fans setup. This should be enough to keep the temperatures at sensible levels even after hard track use.


All the bits...






Old radiator exposed...




Old radiator removed...Oh, it was leaking and it was only a matter of time before it completely failed!!






Twin fans installed. Note the OEM one on the right. The new fan is a lot more powerful than the original, but I am not sure whether or not there is any science in deciding which one goes first...






The new fan comes with a connector, however the best way of providing power to it is by removing the plug and splicing the wires to the original power supply.


New radiator installed...




After coolant top-up, the car was run to temperature and checked for leaks.




After collecting the car back from Unit 4, I went out for drive and the temperature remained in the low 80s in all conditions. I then let the temperature rise to 87 (on stand-still) and the fans kicked in. The air flow through the radiator is immense and reduced the heat pretty quickly.


So, am I happy with the work carried out by Gavin at Unit 4? YES! Was the upgrade worth while and the investment? Hell yeah!!






Another job done! :clap::afro:


Hey All,This weekend I decided to install a front splitter ( from Elisepower) and see what difference, if any it makes to the ride and handling. It took longer than anticipated, but pretty straight forward in complexity. Anyway, these are the steps taken.


1. I decided just jack up the car pretty high and placed a couple of safety supports. It was pretty tight ( being a lardy type of chap) but manageable.


2. Since the splitter itself sits directly under the front of the car, I decided to use sticky domestic door seals (or draft excluders) to run two lines either side of the holes to provide a sealed joint.


3. Then, I removed the plate under the front of the car. About 11 bolts to remove. I had an issue with one of the clips inside the clam moved and dropped in. It was an absolute bugger to get it out, tighten it then find a way of replacing it. post-590-1211888917.jpg4. I then placed the splitter under the car, whilst ensuring that it is correctly alligned and secured it in place with a support (Box) and tape. post-590-1211889165.jpg5. Marked all the holes with a marker 6. Drilled. I used the smallest drill bit I had first, then enlarged the hole with a dremmel.post-590-1211889220.jpg6. Bolted the splitter into place. The recommendations are that the receiving nuts are bonded onto the clam. I chose not to do this as if the plastic bolts break, I would have to access the underside anyway.Note that I screwed two screws into the underside of the number plate plinth. This is to stop the spliter from deflecting too much downwards at high speeds. This will do for not until I come up with a better solution. Metal cable perhaps?post-590-1211889413.jpg7. I put everything back as original ( full of fun and games due to rust), then dropped the car back down. Replace the number plate, then tried to get out of the garage.I just managed to without hitting the floor as there is a step into my garage.


7. I put everything back as original ( full of fun and games due to rust), then dropped the car back down. Replace the number plate, then tried to get out of the garage.I just managed to without hitting the floor as there is a step into my garage.post-590-1211889871.jpg


Now for a test drive :drive:


This entry was originally posted on the forum linked below.




Source: S1 Splitter


Now, this next step is something that will put off a lot of people running with a Stark conversion. To get the charger to fit, it was necessary to cut the bulkhead a bit to get by-pass valve to fit.


The cut is only about two inches by four inches. I used a dremel to cut the bulkhead, but I am sure there are better ways of doing this. Its not the neatest of jobs, but it will be covered up so not too bothered.




Now everything is ready for the charger to be dropped into place.


It should be highlighted that the placing of the charger into location, on a car that is on axle stands, with the boot lid still in place, on your own, is a big ask. The charger is 15kg or more and to lift it clear and drop in place is no easy job. I managed it because I am so fit :P


So, fast forward a few days and several attempts to place the charger in place. A swear word here and there and...





Perfect fit and all aligned...




Carefully and gradually bolt the manifold in place. I ensured that the manifold went in as evenly as possible...




Tighter than a tight thing!! :D




Once In place, from under the car, I bolted the support onto the engine block. Now this should be able to take majority of the loads and the engine moves and worked hard.






Now, the installation is ready for the fuel rail and vacuum hoses.


Almost there!! :)


At this point, the car is pretty much prep'd and ready for the installation of the actual supercharger.


To re-cap, we have in place:-


1. All fuel lines

2. Swirl Pot

3. In-line fuel pump

4. Uprated pressure regulator

5. Secured the fuel filter in place

6. Changed the injector harness/ connectors


Left to do:-


1. Remove the original intake manifold

2. Make modifications to the bulkhead

3. Drop the charger in place

4. Drive belt

5. Go for a drive!!


The Charger


So, as explained, I went for the Jackson Racing supercharger with the DC5 manifold. I had the option of going with the EP3, which would have fit onto the car a lot easier due to its orientation. So, I have just set myself a bigger task for greater power gains - I hope.








Brackets - more of which to come...




And this is how not to install it. On the serious note, I did this for some sanity really. I needed to check that the measurements gave me some hope that the thing would fit on the car.





Manifold removal


Now that the fuel rail and the injectors are out of the way, we can start working on removing the old manifold...




Remove all the connectors from the throttle body, marking them if you wish. The throttle body is held in place with two bolts and two nuts. Once removed, you can gently tap it free using a small screw driver. The gasket tends to hold the TB in place.


Note: The IACV heater coolant circuit will have to be disconnected and in doing so, you will get the coolant running all over the place. I used an old pipe to re-direct the flow into a bottle.




The manifold is held in place with a combination of bolts and nuts. Due to space restrictions, I opted to remove the studs instead of unbolting the bolts. For this, its easy to use the two bolts method, whereby you tighten two bolts together and un-do the bolt that is behind ( the reverse is also true when it comes to bolting the stud on.






Easy as...




After 30 minutes of unbolting, away it came! I must say, the manifold turned out to be a lot lighter than I thought.






The location all ready to receive the new parts!!




Supercharger Prep


It is advisable that you check and correctly tighten all the bolts and if you feel appropriate, check the oil levels. Now, I didn't check the oil level on mine and I really wished I had. Lesson learned!


The first this I did was to change the HUGE standard pulley with a smaller 3.4 inch one. Once you un-do the main bolt, make sure that you take care to remove the pulley - DO NOT bash it with a hammer!




Out it comes...




A quick comparison between the two pulleys...




All bolted in place now and looking good.




I checked the bolts under the charger and mounted the support brackets as this would be almost impossible to do once the charger is on the car...











The pictures say it all. Looking good and fully secured now...


Starter Motor Modification


The supercharger will not clear the starter motor completely and you will have to make some minor modification.


Firstly, all wiring mounts have to be removed and thrown away. These are no longer required and if left in place, they would clash with the charger.


The main earthing cable coming out of the starter motor will have to be bent round and in-line with the black water pipe.

Note: Don't make the same mistake as I did and tried to fit the charger before making the changes. I did this and the wire got cut and shorted the earth. The cable started to heat up and almost caused a fire!!! Be warned!!




Now nicely modified and out of the way.






Once the cable was out of the way, I then had to remove the bit that held one of the wiring mounts on the starter motor. I have been told that in some cases, it is not necessary to remove this nodule, however in my case, I had to get it removed.


So out with the hacksaw...




All done and clear now...





Bulkhead Modification


Now, due to the type of mounts I have on my conversion, the engine sits very tight against the builkhead, so much so that I had to removed the insulation to make enough room to accommodate the charger.












The standard Honda injectors are not large enough to deliver the required amount of fuel once the supercharger is installed. As such, they will need to be replaced with larger sized ones.


Now, I know there may be some complex calculation that one could go into, however after some research, it seems that people have gone for:-


600cc - Seems normal low boost operations

630cc - Seems to be the mean

700cc+ - For extreme application


As for me, due to my setup and standard exhaust manifold, I have chosen to go with the average - ie 630cc injectors.


Strip down


The installation starts off with the stripping down of the bits and bobs connected to the manifold.


1. Engine cover,

2. Engine cover mounts




3. Earthing bolts






4. Then un-clip the wiring harness connectors from the injectors. Make sure that you pull out the retaining clips first before pulling free.






5. Un-clip the wiring harness channel off the manifold mounts






6. Unbolt and remove the bolts holding down the fuel rail

Fuel Rail Removal


Before attempting to remove the fuel rail and the injectors, you will need to ensure that the pressure on the system has been released.


Firstly, open the fuel cap to allow air into the tank and remove/ unclip the fuel hose connected to the fuel rail.


Note: There will be a lot of fuel in the fuel rail and as such make sure you have a lot of rags about. It could get everywhere if not careful.


Once the fuel drips stop, you are now ready to remove the fuel rail.


1. Remove the spacers and retain them for later use.




2. Carefully lift the fuel rail off, slowly and gently ensuring that you do not force anything or break the injectors.


3. Once free, you will note that each injector has a retaining clip that can be pulled of to free the injectors from the fuel rail.


4. Once again, it is necessary to point out that you will need to be careful and gentle during this part otherwise you run the risk of damaging the injectors - especially if you plan to sell them on.


5. Once all the injectors are removed, you can set the fuel rail aside - covered to keep it from dust.


Fuel rail removed...






The installation is pretty much the reverse of the removal, however there are some considerations.


1. You will need to ensure that the seals are a good fit, so use a bit of engine oil on them. Just a coating is more than adequate.




2. Re-use the spacers when bolting down the fuel rail


3. Once gain, gently does it or it could end up being very expensive for you!




Injector connectors


As the larger injectors do not share the connectors with with the Honda OEM ones, you will need to get the appropriate connectors and swap out the ends.


I am sure that there may be other short cut way of getting them replaced, however, I chose to completely remove the original items, including the pins and replace them with the new ends.

The approach...


1. To get to the pins on the OEM connectors, you will need to first remove the centre cap. I used a small screw driver to prise the cap off.


2. Once removed, by using a small screw driver, press down on the pin and gently pull the wire out at the back. The wire should come free.




3. Remove the pins by cutting them off the ends of the wire. At this point, you may chose to remember which order the wires lined up. Looking at the diagram, the injectors are wired in series, so the order does not seem to matter.




4. Connect the new pins and grip in place




5. Place the boot over the wire. This will then cover the ends of the connectors and keep dust and rubbish out.


6. Push the pins into the new connectors. You should hear a click sound once in place.




7. Pull the boot over the connector and tape the bottom end with electrical tape




Once all 4 are done, clip them on top of the injectors and job done!






Looking good! B):D


When considering the fuel line runs, you need to take into account the locations of all key components, the fuel flow direction and access.


The engine supply will pretty much run:-


Main fuel tank -> Swirlpot -> in-line fuel pump -> T piece (Engine/ return) -> Fuel Pressure Regulator -> Swirlpot -> back to the main tank.


As I had already chosen the location of the Swirl pot, it was then pretty obvious as to the runs I needed and location.


Note: Looking back, I wish that I had used better connectors as the normal push-on and clips approach, works well under normal circumstance, however because I kept the clam on, it proved very difficult to lean and reach across to get the pipes fitted.


I would further add that you should always measure twice and cut once. Be sure!!


I was able to re-utilse majority of the original pipes, however In some cases, I had to use new. In time, I will replace them all so as I end up with a uniform look.


Fuel Pump Location


Whilst thinking about pipe runs and location of the key components, I had to make a decision on where the fuel pump should be mounted.


Now, on this, majority of the conversions seem to mount the fuel pump on the builkhead and in some cases share mountings with the Swirlpot.


In my case, due to the large Swirlpot, I had to come up with a different solution.


After some head scratching, I ended up with using the original fuel filter housing, modified to allow the in-line fuel pump to fit comfortably in side it.






The fuel pump fit pretty well in it and a couple of zip ties and all is good. All fittings added to the fuel pump (including the banjo fitting to give a 90 degrees outlet)




This was then to be mounted on its original location on the aluminium mount by the connectors etc.




Note: I decided on ensuring that all mounts were sitting on rubberised washers which will go some way in reducing vibrations and fuel pump noise being transmitted into the cabin.


The location seems to work pretty well and secured.




Fuel Filter


Just a quick note on this. I decided to retain my original high flow fuel filter and relocated it against the bulkhead. As its not particularly heavy, I used industrial strength Velcro to hold it in place. It held very well.


The photo below shows the final location...




So, when it comes to fuel pumps, there are two well documented approaches.


1. Replacing the in-tank OEM pump with one of the uprated ones


2. Install an in-line, engine bay mounted more powerful fuel pump


There are pros and cons for both approaches, however the I decided to go for the in-line route as I believe it to be a lot simpler and should there be any failures, it would be easily accessible.


After some research, I decided to go for the Bosch 044 series, which seem both powerful and reliable.




The pump will be run directly from the raw feed from the battery and triggered through a relay by immobiliser managed supply.


This way, it ensures that the fuel pump gets good feed from the battery and not use original wires that my be too thin to take the load.


The bits...




I crimped the connectors and fitted a heat shrink tube to keep everything in place and well supported. Those Hondas have some vibrations on them.






Heated up with a match!




20 minutes later and the loom was complete...




For supercharged K20, you will need to run the fuel at 3.5bar as opposed to 3.0bar for NA setup.


As I already had the Webber FPR, I chose to change the internals for the one I had, rather than buy a replacement.


This, in fact was pretty straight forward.


1. I first removed the regulator from the car.




2. I then removed the retaining circlip on top of the regulator.




3. Once free, I simply pushed the internals (valves) out through the top.






4. Installation was pretty much the reverse.




This whole job took about 10 minutes end to end. Pretty simple.


Once back on the car, I could workout the layout of the rest of the installation.




I chose to start the work on the fuel system before tackling the supercharger.




1. Fuel hoses

2. Fuel pump ( Bosch 044)

3. Wiring/ cables

4. Relay

5. Swirl Pot

6. 3.5 Fuel Pressure Regulator

7. Fittings


Swirl Pot


I decided in going for a two litre swirl pot, but I have read somewhere that you can get away with anything down to 0.5 of a litre.




I chose to locate mine on the firewall, lower left hand side of the engine bay, where the charcol canister used to be. This is where I previously installed the fuel filter during the original engine swap.


1. I removed the fuel filter from its mounts and drilled out the rivets holding down the brackets.





2. I then marked the four holes required to secure the new Swirlpot on the firewall.


3. I then drilled out the four holes ready to receive rawnuts (rubber)






4. Once in position, it was just a matter of screwing it in place and job done.




Note: If I was to do this again, I would install some connectors on the swirlpot to allow easier installation of the fuel hoses. As it was, it took great effort to get the hoses pushed in far enough on the various outlets/ inlets.


Otherwise, its looking pretty good and the secured.




Car Preparation

I first reversed into the garage, positioning it so that I had clear space and easy access around the car.



1. I raised the car onto two axial stands at the rear. If you opt to do this, you will need to ensure that the car is not too high to allow you to lean over into the engine bay, whilst it needs to be high enough to allow you good access under the car.


2. I then removed both rear wheels and wheelarch liners.


3. I left the jacks ( I have two) in place to act as a secondary support points - just in case :D


4. I then removed the diffuser and the middle section of the under-tray.


Note: If you choose to raise the car in this way, ie just the rear, please ensure that you have a pair of chocks under the front wheels. The car can move during the installation and this could result in the car coming off the stands.

Anyway, at this point, the car is pretty much ready for the work to commence.


Some pics...