Auto Electrician Please Help!

[RichEuropaS]

Did you have any issues before it would not start, had it been starting fine before?

[whitewedge]

Sorry I didn't explain myself very well, I have bridged both ends of the female plug, so in all that's four terminals. I was told from a repurable source this was the way to do it, as its the same as the cobra system to. If you look on Elise parts you can see the male connection plug they sell, it has four pins (so two circuits) at either end. Hope this makes sense!

Cheers

Hi Rich

It was all working 100% five years ago when it was on the road! The rear clam, engine and loom ecu everything was out of the car, now its back in it doesn't want to start.

[RichEuropaS]

Hi,

I would check all the earthing points are tight and good cables.

I came unstuck on a friends car this year which would not start.  

Ended up being the earth (negative) strap to the engine... which had been replaced by a garage, but not 100% tight!!!!! 

I checked everything and then started to think of all the other things it could be, read loads and loads of forum threads.

I ended up going back to basics... and found that the strap was not tight.  Been working, but after a month the car would not start.

 

Just a thought...  

[AlanS1]

If i understand correctly you are saying that you put the ignition on and all is normal?

 

Turn the key and nothing? But if you bridge/short the starter direct is turns over?

Do you know if there is power going to the single spade connector when you turn the key? I am guessing there isn't?

 

If this is correct you have 2 choices. Either trace the starter wire all the way and see if you can find anything or start at the ignition key and trace that wire. Work your way piece by piece checking for any power. 

 

I am sure you know, but the wiring diagrams are not always correct which doesn't help. I found this out when i was helping a fellow MLOCer with a similar issue. I can't remember exactly, but his issue was either a bad wire or connection to the fuse box. If we followed the wiring diagram the connection/wire in question should not have effected that circuit.

 

Its normally a process of elimination, but being methodical will save you time. 

[whitewedge]

Yes I put key in ignition dash lights up as normal, I press the button on remote to deactivate the meta m36 immobiliser, I can here the relay in the unit click, then go to ignition crank and all that happens is the relay in the multi function relay unit clicks. I have discovered today after a few hours of tracing and measuring continuity that the meta immob is spliced into the wires from the output of the MFRU, so power goes from the ignition for the starter relay in the MFRU but nothing comes out. Maybe its the MFRU at fault, however there is no voltage showing on the input from the "ecu relay control from ecu" or the "fuel relay control from ignition". I initially thought the MFRU was at fault so bought a second hand unit from a reputable MG breaker. I have now opened that unit and tested the four relays with a 9 volt battery they all click.

Hope this makes sense its pretty difficult to explain.

I have made some progress today but I am still scratching my bloody head!

[AlanS1]

I would start to trace the wire back from the starter motor. 

[whitewedge]

Done that already it goes without breaks to immob, I have also traced the starter wire coming out of the MFRU which also goes to immob.

[Martin R]

Jake, there is a 20A fuse that supplies the MFRU then via the immobiliser and to the starter motor coil. Its fuse number 25.

 

Edit, you should have the circuit diagrams now? The one attached is for the meta alarm. I have a different one for the slightly later Cobra alarm.

[whitewedge]

Thank you for this Martin, just been trying to work it out as was slightly confusing at first. When you say fuse number 25 were is that? as there are only 22 in the fuse box, I suppose you could ad the 3 in the engine bay. But I have checked all of them anyway. Really appreciate all your help on this tedious matter.

[Martin R]

I will have a look for the fuse location when i get home to a workshop manual.

[whitewedge]

Hi Martin just to let you know that is how I had it bridged before like you would on the Cobra immob. Rang Elise parts to find out if its the same for the Meta and thay confirmed its not. They also said they have been asked that question a number of times, and they are not aware of anybody that has figured out how to bypass it!!

[Martin R]

Jake, i thought it probably wasnt. Bridging it out should be fairly straight forward via the wiring diagram? One circuit is broken to the starter motor coil via the immobiliser. The other circuit to the inertia switch and therefore the fuel pump is also broken via the immobiliser.

 

The second is not obvious as its shown as a link on sheet 2 just below the inertia switch as you look at the drawing? It has numbers 1 and 6 on it.

[whitewedge]

Post edited.

[Martin R]

Jake, im trying to be careful what i put on an open forum re bypassing an immobilliser. I will PM you. I have also used my super human powers to edit your post    

[whitewedge]

Ok no worries I understand what you are saying, I am still a newbie so forgive me. I didn't realise you had super human powers either.. lol