S1 Suspension Refurb Finished.....and Then

[Johnny Boy]

Having refurbished wishbones, new bushes, ball joints, steering rack, new arb, suspension, main and rear engine mount and many other things ready for some track time on Sunday 20th March at Curborough. Last Tuesday noticed bit of white gunk on wall of coolant bottle, there had been some remnants of K Seal in bottle and may have camouflaged the gunk/mayo. Removed bottle cleaned it all out drove few miles and the gunk was back. Was pretty sure it was HGF although no mayo on dipstick, or oil cap, did block sniffer test all ok, coolant levels ok, oil was halfway down mark and had been to top previously. Had second and third opinions from trusted contacts and both said HGF but early stages and could last for months. 

 

Anyway Saturday decided to change HG, not done it before so started strip down oil is out coolant is out most of connections to head and inlet manifold are off. Wheel arch liner off, upper front timing belt cover off, cam sprockets lined up and locking tool in, crank pulley slot/mark lined up with mark on lower timing belt cover, removed plugs and all 4 pistons are halfway down cylinder so I think head is ready to come off, have a flywheel locking tool being delivered as well which I may not need but belt and braces.

 

I am writing everything down and it will go on a spreadsheet, have read the guides 4 or 5 times and will keep doing so, if not sure at any point will call for help.

 

HG was replaced 10 years ago at 40k, now done 80k so not unexpected. Head would have been coming off later this year as was looking to do mods to head, valves, ecu,  cams etc but not yet. Don't think I can afford to do all mods at the mo but possibly put 135 cams in ? Is it worth it will the ecu handle it ?

 

Oh well.....

 

 

 

[Martin R]

Good luck. Jody has fitted 135 cams to an S1. Check the liner heights once the head is off    

[Johnny Boy]

Thanks Martin, I have been warned to be careful when removing head as don't to unseat liners also to check liner heights as this may dictate MLS or sls gasket. As I reach each stage I check all info and recommendations before proceeding to next, bit slow but....ah well better safe.

[Martin R]

I doubt very much you could unseat liners just lifting the head.Easier if you have a hand though. Cut the heads off a couple of the old bolts and use these to guide the head back on after.

[dobbo]

A pair of used VVC exhaust cams could be a cheap option for cam upgrades. The exhaust cam bearings are the same size as standard cams. It's only the inlet cam that is different

I have one spare exhaust cam if you can find another.

[Martin R]

I have 2 in my garage. However one may need a dizzy drive fitting?

[Johnny Boy]

Open to all option at the mo, main issue is to get car back on road in good time without hurrying. Was thinking of doing whatever upgrades I can without having to change ECU. In time I was thinking of flowed, ported head, cams, pulleys, Emerald, manifold etc but just not yet. The suspension, steering, brakes has depleted funds somewhat. Have already sourced a head from a Caterham that had been upgraded to SuperSport R, Low miles, looks pretty new, has Piper Supersport Cams inlet lgc206240 and Exhaust lgc206260n not sure if I can use these but the rest of the head looks in very good order, followers etc

Any info, does or donts gratefully received. Martin, Dobbo would vvc cams be ok with my ECU ?

[Martin R]

VVC exhaust cams are virtually identical to 135 cams in duration and lift. As you can run 135 cams on a standard ecu as Jody has done i dont see a problem.

 

Does yours have the dizzy on the end of one of the cams?

[Johnny Boy]

yes pretty sure  dizzy is on end of cams will check tomorrow.

 

Cheers

[DeanB]

I'm no expert but although it is true that Jody has 135 cams in his s1 with the oem mems management the rest of his engine is standard. If you are fitting a head with improved flow AND fitting slightly warmer cams surely the engine will be flowing a lot more, especially at higher revs, and it's fuelling requirements would be very different and beyond the parameters of the mems?

 

If it were me I would either fit the head with standard cams (and enjoy the torque and tractability) or save up and do head, cams and emerald at once.

[Martin R]

Dean, i was under the impression the OP just wanted slightly warmer cams than standard for the moment? ( with the standard head used )

[Johnny Boy]

It is a standard head with slightly warmer cams, I have an additional head that may go on but am pretty sure that is standard also. BTW is it ok to remove head with inlet manifold ?

 

I also have an S2 cam cover and an EP clutch slave cylinder support bracket to fit which I may as well do now

 

I will probably wait till next year for the flowed head, ecu etc

 

Presumably when head is on with warmer cams, if not working out just change cams back to standard ?

 

Is it worthwhile modifying boot divider so it is removable ?

 

Thanks for help BTW

[Martin R]

A standard head should / will work with a standard ecu as long as you dont go mad with the cams. Leave the inlet manifold on as it makes it easier to lift off.

[Johnny Boy]

Thanks Martin will leave Mani on. Attached is data on piper cams

[Martin R]

VVC exhaust cam is 252 degrees and 9.3mm lift which is a very small tad wilder than a 135 cam. You would need a spigot fitting for the dizzy drive. IIRC Kiwi Rog will do it? To time the cams correctly would require vernier pulleys or offset dowels and a lot of patience    

 

I dont know if you have seen Daves site?

 

http://www.dvapower.co.uk/

 

If not it will keep you quiet for a few hours.