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Lotus in the Peak
28th - 30th June 2024

K-Series Engine Build


@ndy

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Looking good Andy.

 

Bet you can't wait to get it on track? 

 

I have a pressure bleed if you still struggle with the brakes. Don't forget that if you have fitted new discs, they will need bedding in and may give extra travel until done.

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Looking good Andy.

 

Bet you can't wait to get it on track? 

 

I have a pressure bleed if you still struggle with the brakes. Don't forget that if you have fitted new discs, they will need bedding in and may give extra travel until done.

 

I've got a pressure bleeder and done all the usual, Raised the car at the back, inverted the front callipers and bled them 4-5 times, Pedal is firm but travel's a little further than expected, As you say I will wait for bedding in of disks and pads and see how they feel ?

 

 

 

It's looking promising for Mallory!!!

 

Looking good Andy!

 

I have a couple of weekends away so Mallory looking less likely sad.png

 

 

Awesome!!

 

When's the rolling road?

 

Nothing booked yet, will be making some calls this week

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Have some one press the brake pedal while you pull back on the handbrake arms on the rear calipers.(ie opposite direction than if you are applying the handbrake)

 

I have had this happen on mine and other cars when the rear pistons had been wound in. 

 

Basically helps with the auto adjusters a little.

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Have some one press the brake pedal while you pull back on the handbrake arms on the rear calipers.(ie opposite direction than if you are applying the handbrake)

 

I have had this happen on mine and other cars when the rear pistons had been wound in. 

 

Basically helps with the auto adjusters a little.

 

Will give this a try, thanks for the advice :tup:

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Good advice, there is a measurement in the service manual for the throw required. If its not right the auto adjust will not work. If you dont have a manual i will have a look for the measurement?

 

Edit, it needs to be 76mm from the bottom of the abutment bracket ( the one the outer cable attaches to ) to the top of the lever with the handbrake off. You adjust this via the handbrake cable adjustment.

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  • 1 month later...

Andy which Craig Davis pump and controller did you use and have you got a picture of the switch in the cabin? I have two free switches now I've removed the recirculation and AC, I was thinking one for the pump and primary fan and one for a second fan in traffic, how did you wire this up?

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Andy which Craig Davis pump and controller did you use and have you got a picture of the switch in the cabin? I have two free switches now I've removed the recirculation and AC, I was thinking one for the pump and primary fan and one for a second fan in traffic, how did you wire this up?

 

Hi Jonny,

 

I used the Davies Craig EWP80, I didn't buy or use the controller, I used a timer relay and slave relay. I also used a simple non-latching toggle switch left over from my kit car build located on the lower part of the dash under the side light switch.

 

When this switch is activated the timer relay runs both the pump and fan for around 150 seconds, both then switch off, these continue to run even when the ignition is switched off, however it can't be triggered unless the ignition is on. Normal operation of the fan is still controlled via the ECU if the temperature rises above 90c.

 

My car has never had a problem with overheating on track, however I wanted something to manually run when in traffic and when retunring to the pits after a track session to prevent heat soak to the head.

 

Let me know if you need more info.

 

Cheers,

Andy.

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Thanks Andy, TBH I'm not that sure what I'm doing so I'm going to ask John Shrorrocks to fit all this. Taking stuff apart and painting it I'm a dab hand at lol. I'll get the front done apart from that and get him to sort something out. Thanks again.

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Hi Jonny,

 

I used the Davies Craig EWP80, I didn't buy or use the controller, I used a timer relay and slave relay. I also used a simple non-latching toggle switch left over from my kit car build located on the lower part of the dash under the side light switch.

 

When this switch is activated the timer relay runs both the pump and fan for around 150 seconds, both then switch off, these continue to run even when the ignition is switched off, however it can't be triggered unless the ignition is on. Normal operation of the fan is still controlled via the ECU if the temperature rises above 90c.

 

My car has never had a problem with overheating on track, however I wanted something to manually run when in traffic and when retunring to the pits after a track session to prevent heat soak to the head.

 

Let me know if you need more info.

 

Cheers,

Andy.

 

I know it is early days yet, but have you found this set up to work?

 

I had a similar set up, but i also had a PRRT fitted and to be honest it didn't work well with the PRRT.

 

On the Honda conversion i am still going to use the Davies Craig EW80 pump, but i have removed the engine water pump set up by using a K tuned race delete kit. I will then use the Davies Craig controller to operate the pump as designed. A friend of mine uses this in his 24hr race cars without any issues.

 

The controller will speed up or slow down the pump speed depending on the actual water temps regardless of engine speed, which in theory should be the ideal.

 

Alan

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Andy which Craig Davis pump and controller did you use and have you got a picture of the switch in the cabin? I have two free switches now I've removed the recirculation and AC, I was thinking one for the pump and primary fan and one for a second fan in traffic, how did you wire this up?

Bloody hell that's one heck of career change.....one minute he's singing 'Bo Slecta'! the next minute he's selling pumps and controllers! Still we have all got to earn a living.

........PS - I'll get my coat.

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