Jump to content

litp.jpg

Lotus in the Peak
28th - 30th June 2024

Removing The Alpine Rear Speakers S1 Elise


Sundaydriver

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply

The panels are just held in with Velcro (and possibly the odd self-tapping screw).

 

You won't find much that is a direct replacement.  You need more depth for a more punchy speaker, and there just isn't much room.

 

I did a panel behind the seats with a 6x9" twin oval behind each seat and a good amp as well.  Some folks have got good results with front-mounted tweeters, band-width limited rears, and a sub in the passenger footwell.

 

There's no easy upgrade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Velcro... Really ?

 

Sounds like a fun challenge. I've managed to fit

a new head unit tonight, but I'm fully aware I need to

fit better speakers at very the least. I just couldn't

fathom what size they were when I was at the radio

Shop today. They were suggesting 4" , so I'm glad

I didn't buy them today.

 

So what I think yours saying is the whole panel

Removes with the speaker still attached ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had self tappers in mine as well as the velcro.

 

I added a little Ripspeed sub -no longer available- to the passenger footwell.  OK, not really a 'sub', but It was enough just to move some LF away from the rear speakers so making them a bit more efficient and clearer.  I could see little point in making a great sounding system as the car is loud enough already!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all :-D

 

Phil, nice seat job ! Excellent link, write up and pics.

I'm left wondering now exactly what the speaker housing assembly actually achieves, you can hardly see it anyway, and it compromises the solidity of the speaker mounting , and it's maximum size.

 

Perhaps a bespoke housing might fix the issue. Not sure how or what really yet ! And just maybe the next idea will solve most of

The poor sound issue ...

 

I'm considering an amp/sub combo but it'll be a careful balance between too much unwanted added weight and a decent

quality unit.

 

To be honest I had no idea I'd want to do this atall, but I'm spoilt in the daily drive mondeo, and I do like a good quality sound.

 

On the added weight issue , to offset an amp weight I think I'd better get out on the push bike ... ;-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have infinity kappas in mine, these are the current ones. They are deeper than the paper alpines (whilst I am not a fan of alpine speakers get ally, I can not believe alpine put their name to the standard pants effort) so I had to get some mdf spacer rings made.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171243093830?clk_rvr_id=670365936442

 

I also used some dinomat in the void behind the speakers (I goes down all the way to the sills) but am now thinking of getting some wadding to help produce a bit of bass

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dynamat will help deaden any mid / low frequency panel vibration.  Wadding helps with higher frequency but, with wind noise in the Elise, there's no point in killing off the HF from the speakers.

 

For bass, there's no substitute - you have to shift a decent volume of air.  So, you need either long-throw or big-area speakers (or a combination of the two if space is limited).  Wadding can't help a speaker shift more air.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is not what SELOC and google say ;0)

 

I have ear plugs to kill the wind noise and turn the stereo up to counter the ear plugs, it does work quite well

 

I was going to buy a couple of asda pillows and use the innards first to see if I like the result, I can always take it back out if I don't like it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with both Dennis and Dobbo.  Wadding will change the response of any speaker, dropping the resonant frequency if you get it right, but without knowing the parameters of the speaker and the volume of the speaker housing, its all going to be guesswork.  Might as well start drilling holes in the housing and sticking random port tubes in there.  I also agree that there is no substitute for producing bass than moving a lot of air.  

 

If I were to do anything further to improve my sound, it would be to add tweeters in front of me as there's a lot of clarity lost from the speakers being behind the seats.  I worry too much about my hearing though when I'm driving Elsie, so I'd rather not add more volume!

 

If you're at Chatsworth, Sundaydriver, you're welcome to come and have a listen to what we've all done I'm sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again all..

 

Sounding like an audiophile forum isn't it :-) I've had budget marantz, arcam, and some infinity bookshelf speakers for quite a few

Years now at home. Recently bought a Naim amp, and hoping to find some decent speakers on eBay to suit. A neighbour friend of mine has quad Valve and electrostatic set up ... I'm not so obsessive about it, and the Elise is no egg boxed listening room ha ha .

 

 

Yes, Looking forward to Chatsworth to check out a few mods , will be great to attend an event as an owner at last !!!

 

Might pop over to see Rocky later at Halesowen, that way I can see what I'm up against behind those speaker panels.

 

Thanks again for all the advice , much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave - good to meet you on Sunday at Chatsworth.....if you recall you spotted my Infinity Kappas and were asking about them - they were £50 off eBay brand new, cheapest I could find (52.9i model).

 

Good improvement in clarity, mid range and punch, as others have said you do need a sub for strong bass though. I may go down that route as well, but would prefer it not to be visible in the car!

 

A few tips from my experience recently - The passenger seat needs to come out for that side, I also removed the seat frame and refurbed it with Hammerite at the same time.

 

It's easier to remove the speaker housings with the seat belt reels off - but before you do that, pull out some more seat belt and put a kitchen food bag clip thing on the belt to stop if from retracting into the reel - if it retracts fully it will take you hours to get it out again - I know this from personal experience.....

 

If you remove the speaker housings (couple of screws then just gently pull at the edges where the Velcro is) and make some MDF spacer rings (and spray them black of course!) then you can screw the spacers in from behind using the existing holes in the housings (3 holes), then simply drill 4 new holes for the new speakers in the front of the spacers, no need to use the metal clips.

 

I used Silent Coat to line the housings, and put some hollow fibre pillow wadding in there too. I think with the Infinitys, the thinnest spacer you can get away with on the drivers side is 12mm MDF. Passenger side doesn't actually need one from memory but it all helps to provide a more solid fixing.

 

Hope this helps :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey thanks Dave, I had a chat with Keith aswell, and he have me a demo of his sub,with some Bob Marley, I think on balance I'm likely to leave the speakers alone and

try a sub/amp thing in the footwell for starters, and if that works well enough then I'm happy.

 

Your speakers look fab :-)

 

Thanks for thorough post above, and the excellent seat belt tip !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use