smithpaulg Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 As some of you may have gathered from another thread, I recently visited Gav where he tracked down the smell of antifreeze in the car to a slightly leaky radiator. I am booked in for the end of next week to get it fixed with him, so I need to decide what I am actually going to have done and get the bits ordered, hence this thread. Some background, the car is a fairly standard, non aircon, mildly modified (but nothing excessive) S2. As you may know, I did have HGF a while back, so tend to be concerned out engine temperature, avidly watching the temperature gauge more than the speedo. I want the car to be bomb proof and while the clam in off I think I might as well do the job properly!! Having looked on elisepart web site, I fancy the following: Upgraded Aluminium Radiator Twin SPAL Fans Fan Stat So, this means I would have 1 fan running as standard (at 102) with a second that would cut in independently based on the water temperature (I was thinking setting approx 88-90degs). I have a water to oil cooler so my engine temp jumps from 84 straight to about 93 when at a junction. I am not expecting to get to the second fan very often! Can you over-cool an engine? So what are the thoughts of MLOC, is it too much?? Thanks Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russelld Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 When a standard single fan kicks in even in very hot weather when stuck in traffic it seems up to the job as the temp slowly drops back down. If the fan controller can run the standard single fan and turn it on at a lower temp that would save the expense of the twin fans IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dobbo Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Is it a triple pass rad or just an ali one? I have heard that triple pass is actually worse on anything other than a race car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr H Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Yep don't get the triple bypass one if it's a road car, they 'over cool'. Twin pass should be fine though. Not sure you'd ever need twin fans on a standard(ish) K-series to be honest. Fan stat isn't a bad idea though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Standard ally rad, single fan and an overide switch, it gives you something to mess with in traffic jams Either that or press the loud pedal in neutral to get the water pump working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winthattt Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I have never had any problems with a standard set up on a 190 a Exige, even around town. I would suggest you just get an alloy radiator. As said above, you could add a switch but the ecu will do it for you. If the clam is off you can change the towing post, if rusty. If you have not got them you can also fit braided brake hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanB Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 I would get silicon rad hoses too. But one fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithpaulg Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Thanks for the feedback everyone. You have helped me decide. I am going to go for the dual pass, new fan and a fan stat set around 90ish. I dont want a switch where i have to think about on and offing it!! Now to order the bits for delivery at Gavs.... Good luck Gav!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanB Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 You might want to think about a stainless steel towing post too Paul. Or ask Gav to hammerite your old one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fentuz Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 When i compared the stack temperature with the emerald, the difference is about 5 to 7 deg (stack is lower). I set the fan start temperature at 97deg and the fan stop temperature at 92deg because if set lower (94/95), the fan may kick in while driving on track on a hot track day. If the fan stop temperature is set below 92, the fan will hardly be off (87+5).Regarding triple pass, it is true; it is preferred for spirited usage (above 5000 rpm for a while, not the short acceleration) although it appears to be the only genuine replacement rad on the Bell & Colvill website. Under 40mph, the air flow won't be as efficient and the fan kicks in more often in the traffic. Over 60mph, it cools more but not to the point of causing a thermal chock. For example, at stowe, after several lap at 4.5 to 6.0 krpm, the car was running hotter (92 deg real). With the triple pass, by slowing down a bit, the temperature went down quicker. Since I have a oil/water cooler and therefore, more heat to remove, it was an advantage.Twin fan, several people (inc trophy guys) have found that the twin fan is actually worse. In traffic where there is very little air flow, it will improve cooling however, when driving, it restricts air flow a lot compromising cooling. I was told by a mate who looked after 2 almost identical cars that they had overheating problem with one of the race cars and the only difference was that twin fan; it was fixed when they went back to single fanSo, yes the triple pass is not great for everyday car, but with emerald or temperature overright set at a descent temperature range, it is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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