Dj Wilmas T Series 111S S2 400Bhp Ish

[Numbnutz]

DJ - this is very interesting, and I've read your posts on Seloc too - well done for trying something different. Some of my thoughts:

 

You could add another engine steady in the same way that the Honda conv's have one to the front - quite easy to do and would take the strain off the driver side engine mount - which you can fracture with a standard k.

 

Regarding the exhaust fabrication, you can buy preformed 90' 3" stainless bends (what custom exhaust manufacturers use) to help keep the flow smooth.

 

I'd have expected that mounting the turbo under the ex manifold (similar to Simba's) would help keep the heat away from the boot space, and the 3" exit could flow down from the turbo and under the engine - keeping the flow neat and helping keep radiated heat in the bay and against the firewall down.

 

On a standard 111S, heat is transmitted through the firewall after a good blast or prolonged driving - handy in the winter but not the summer - this just highlights the need for good thermo/heat management. A chimney blowing from below will just blow more heat onto the boot - that will be a bout 4-6" away from the turbo, so a jacket would probably be a nessesity. Alternatively, if you don't yet have the rear clam - get an exige (or copy) - as this has a higher boot.

 

Something like a 2bular GT3H2 single exit is around 8kg, the cat is around 1-2, so this would save about 15-20kg's over the original S2 111s exhaust and cat. Not quite standard, but you could use a dummy left hand exit if you want. Most people wouldn't notice the differennce though.

 

Regarding your charge cooler - how are you ensuring the charge is cooled? Is this watercooled via a jacket? Did you consider a fan assisted intercooler on D/S wheel arch? what is your reasoning - I may need to reason along similar lines.

 

As for the extra weight over standard, you may want to call Gaz Pro and discuss what rate of springs you should use on the rear to make sure everything is as it should be. You could get it corner weighted too once its all done.

 

As for KingK's and other comments, well each to their own for engine choice. What you are doing with the K is great, and people choose Honda, Audi, Toyota, GM, Ford or Rover turbo's based on their sitution and what they want. I'm sure that they weigh up the pro's and cons, and they pay their money and takes theirs choice.

 

I deliberated over tuning the K, (but dodgy heads, mass HGF, reliability and cost with no guarantee of longivety put me off), the Audi was perhaps too torquey and heavy (plus not openly discussed or available mounts) but the TFSI other than weight seems very tempting other than cost.

 

For me - the Honda fitted my spec. Yes it was a little heavier than the K, but not 100Kg heavier like the Toyota cars are (yes thats chassis modifications too), and yes I can feel the added weight in the back more than I thought, but I put this in for £5.5-6k, and that includes lighter flywheel, baffled sump, 2bular exhaust and 100 cell cat, MSC 4-1 mainifold, adjustable FPR, custom shafts, kpro ecu and a tune to 235-240bhp - but I did the build myself.

 

Although its heavier, its more reliable, and a good basis to super charge or turbo to 350-450 bhp as a winter project. I'm not sure how much a KingK motor is, but to be honest, I'd not heard much about your motors, and pondered a DVA 195 build and dismissed it.

 

DJ is sticking to a powerplant he is familiar with and has contacts to help complete the build at a very keen price that would be hard to beat - I personally welcome any comments, as it makes for more of a debate, and we may learn something, so long as we dont thread drift too far.

 

I bet you can't wait to test drive your creation, just be careful this time of year - those roads are slippy as hell and full of grit, and you will accelerate faster than you can brake with those skinny front tyres and no weight on the front - but any thing over 200bhp in 800kg feels great, so 350bhp is gonna feel epic.

 

Silly grin time

[DeanB]

DJ - this is very interesting, and I've read your posts on Seloc too - well done for trying something different. Some of my thoughts:

 

You could add another engine steady in the same way that the Honda conv's have one to the front - quite easy to do and would take the strain off the driver side engine mount - which you can fracture with a standard k.

 

Regarding the exhaust fabrication, you can buy preformed 90' 3" stainless bends (what custom exhaust manufacturers use) to help keep the flow smooth.

 

I'd have expected that mounting the turbo under the ex manifold (similar to Simba's) would help keep the heat away from the boot space, and the 3" exit could flow down from the turbo and under the engine - keeping the flow neat and helping keep radiated heat in the bay and against the firewall down.

 

On a standard 111S, heat is transmitted through the firewall after a good blast or prolonged driving - handy in the winter but not the summer - this just highlights the need for good thermo/heat management. A chimney blowing from below will just blow more heat onto the boot - that will be a bout 4-6" away from the turbo, so a jacket would probably be a nessesity. Alternatively, if you don't yet have the rear clam - get an exige (or copy) - as this has a higher boot.

 

Something like a 2bular GT3H2 single exit is around 8kg, the cat is around 1-2, so this would save about 15-20kg's over the original S2 111s exhaust and cat. Not quite standard, but you could use a dummy left hand exit if you want. Most people wouldn't notice the differennce though.

 

Regarding your charge cooler - how are you ensuring the charge is cooled? Is this watercooled via a jacket? Did you consider a fan assisted intercooler on D/S wheel arch? what is your reasoning - I may need to reason along similar lines.

 

As for the extra weight over standard, you may want to call Gaz Pro and discuss what rate of springs you should use on the rear to make sure everything is as it should be. You could get it corner weighted too once its all done.

 

As for KingK's and other comments, well each to their own for engine choice. What you are doing with the K is great, and people choose Honda, Audi, Toyota, GM, Ford or Rover turbo's based on their sitution and what they want. I'm sure that they weigh up the pro's and cons, and they pay their money and takes theirs choice.

 

I deliberated over tuning the K, (but dodgy heads, mass HGF, reliability and cost with no guarantee of longivety put me off), the Audi was perhaps too torquey and heavy (plus not openly discussed or available mounts) but the TFSI other than weight seems very tempting other than cost.

 

For me - the Honda fitted my spec. Yes it was a little heavier than the K, but not 100Kg heavier like the Toyota cars are (yes thats chassis modifications too), and yes I can feel the added weight in the back more than I thought, but I put this in for £5.5-6k, and that includes lighter flywheel, baffled sump, 2bular exhaust and 100 cell cat, MSC 4-1 mainifold, adjustable FPR, custom shafts, kpro ecu and a tune to 235-240bhp - but I did the build myself.

 

Although its heavier, its more reliable, and a good basis to super charge or turbo to 350-450 bhp as a winter project. I'm not sure how much a KingK motor is, but to be honest, I'd not heard much about your motors, and pondered a DVA 195 build and dismissed it.

 

DJ is sticking to a powerplant he is familiar with and has contacts to help complete the build at a very keen price that would be hard to beat - I personally welcome any comments, as it makes for more of a debate, and we may learn something, so long as we dont thread drift too far.

 

I bet you can't wait to test drive your creation, just be careful this time of year - those roads are slippy as hell and full of grit, and you will accelerate faster than you can brake with those skinny front tyres and no weight on the front - but any thing over 200bhp in 800kg feels great, so 350bhp is gonna feel epic.

 

Silly grin time

 

Best post I've read in ages. If you don't mind me saying....

 

I love that different people on here have different ideas and make different choices. Life would be so boring otherwise.

[DJWilma]

Things have been a little slow due to baby and a job promotion but back on track

 

 

Suspension is on brakes fitted, ap 4 pots but with 308mm solid discs from a vectra not pretty but at 125 a set drilled and spigot type insert I had to try it. Braided all the pipes too

Dta has lots of features one is launch and traction control which is four channel so had to mill some marks into the disks.

Will also give speed to the ecu so I can trigger radiator fans and engine bay fan to come on at low speeds to counter act heat soak

Loom is made and engine should be running this week

 

 

 

DJ - this is very interesting, and I've read your posts on Seloc too - well done for trying something different. Some of my thoughts:

 

You could add another engine steady in the same way that the Honda conv's have one to the front - quite easy to do and would take the strain off the driver side engine mount - which you can fracture with a standard k.

 

Regarding the exhaust fabrication, you can buy preformed 90' 3" stainless bends (what custom exhaust manufacturers use) to help keep the flow smooth.

 

I'd have expected that mounting the turbo under the ex manifold (similar to Simba's) would help keep the heat away from the boot space, and the 3" exit could flow down from the turbo and under the engine - keeping the flow neat and helping keep radiated heat in the bay and against the firewall down.

 

On a standard 111S, heat is transmitted through the firewall after a good blast or prolonged driving - handy in the winter but not the summer - this just highlights the need for good thermo/heat management. A chimney blowing from below will just blow more heat onto the boot - that will be a bout 4-6" away from the turbo, so a jacket would probably be a nessesity. Alternatively, if you don't yet have the rear clam - get an exige (or copy) - as this has a higher boot.

 

Something like a 2bular GT3H2 single exit is around 8kg, the cat is around 1-2, so this would save about 15-20kg's over the original S2 111s exhaust and cat. Not quite standard, but you could use a dummy left hand exit if you want. Most people wouldn't notice the differennce though.

 

Regarding your charge cooler - how are you ensuring the charge is cooled? Is this watercooled via a jacket? Did you consider a fan assisted intercooler on D/S wheel arch? what is your reasoning - I may need to reason along similar lines.

 

As for the extra weight over standard, you may want to call Gaz Pro and discuss what rate of springs you should use on the rear to make sure everything is as it should be. You could get it corner weighted too once its all done.

 

As for KingK's and other comments, well each to their own for engine choice. What you are doing with the K is great, and people choose Honda, Audi, Toyota, GM, Ford or Rover turbo's based on their sitution and what they want. I'm sure that they weigh up the pro's and cons, and they pay their money and takes theirs choice.

 

I deliberated over tuning the K, (but dodgy heads, mass HGF, reliability and cost with no guarantee of longivety put me off), the Audi was perhaps too torquey and heavy (plus not openly discussed or available mounts) but the TFSI other than weight seems very tempting other than cost.

 

For me - the Honda fitted my spec. Yes it was a little heavier than the K, but not 100Kg heavier like the Toyota cars are (yes thats chassis modifications too), and yes I can feel the added weight in the back more than I thought, but I put this in for £5.5-6k, and that includes lighter flywheel, baffled sump, 2bular exhaust and 100 cell cat, MSC 4-1 mainifold, adjustable FPR, custom shafts, kpro ecu and a tune to 235-240bhp - but I did the build myself.

 

Although its heavier, its more reliable, and a good basis to super charge or turbo to 350-450 bhp as a winter project. I'm not sure how much a KingK motor is, but to be honest, I'd not heard much about your motors, and pondered a DVA 195 build and dismissed it.

 

DJ is sticking to a powerplant he is familiar with and has contacts to help complete the build at a very keen price that would be hard to beat - I personally welcome any comments, as it makes for more of a debate, and we may learn something, so long as we dont thread drift too far.

 

I bet you can't wait to test drive your creation, just be careful this time of year - those roads are slippy as hell and full of grit, and you will accelerate faster than you can brake with those skinny front tyres and no weight on the front - but any thing over 200bhp in 800kg feels great, so 350bhp is gonna feel epic.

 

Silly grin time

 

Thanks for the comments, the turbo being low down in the engine as in below the manifold will create more heat that above as its close to the vents in the cover and the turbo downpipe goes straight down and under the engine, it has only the one bed to go under the engine luckily the T series sits further back than the k (will cover that in a min) so there is a little more room. The chimney, and additional NACA ducts in the under tray will help keep air circulating and when stationary it has a 4 inch inline fan.

 

The turbo has a blanket and the baulkhead has been covered in 3 layer heat wrap / sheet.

 

Charge cooler should be ok, its bigger than it looks on the photos

 

Re additional weight, its about 10kg more than the honda and same lighter than the audi's. Back on track will corner weight and set up the suspension to be as neutral as we can and re spring rates we will see how we go, i prefer a softer set up on the rear so have left them as std GAZ rates which are stiffer than std

 

Re the exhaust, what i have will flow more than i need, it was a lot of welding but so be it and cat is 3" 200 cell for MOT purposes

 

400bhp should be attainable, and 850kgs is the plan. But in reality it will be 250 - 280 bhp and similar torque in road use as not a lot stuck with the metro so the elise should be quick enough saying the 400bhp for fun and 1/4 miles

[DJWilma]

Right things are moving again

 

Swirl pot is made being fed by std fuel pump then Bosch motorsport item to the injections

 

 

Cooling for the turbo

 

 

Should be running tomorrow.......sighs

[DJWilma]

Custom dash little bigger than I wanted but should be ok

 

Dash displays all parameters on the ecu

 

Three buttons are launch control, wet / dry traction and on/off traction control

 

Two potentiometers control variable boost 11psi to 29psi and variable traction control

 

 

 

[DJWilma]

 

RR D-Day is tomorrow !

 

 

[MrSimba]

Good luck!

[Martin R]

Good luck indeed

[DJWilma]

Just got the call, didnt have time to do all of the mapping but so far i am more than happy

 

First proper run it made 260bhp at 6500rpm, but was boosting higher than the 11psi at 14psi

 

timing was knocked back a little to lower the boost and it made 290bhp at 6500rpm max torque of 281lbft at 5400rpm and torque at 3000rpm was 210lbft :brum

 

at 2500rpm it was making 7psi, torque is very flat from 3000rpm to 5500rpm at around 280lbft

 

Should be finished off on Monday, where the boost will get turned up a little more (29psi max) and cam timings will be changed to get it to rev past 7000rpm, preferably 7500rpm

[jonnyfox]

Good stuff look forward to seeing the final numbers.

[DJWilma]

Bit of a pain but the water pump to the dyno brake broke today so didnt quite manage to get it all done.

 

Here is the curve for the first curve, timing is now correct but still needs cam timing and more boost but its a nice start.

 

Boost is rising higher up which I think is the wastegate being to small but its not the end of the world.

 

Still needs to rev more but its a good base.......hopefully tomorrow but 400bhp looks achievable hopefully more ;-)

 

 

 

 

 

[DJWilma]

Ok 1.6 bar or 23.1psi in old skool

 

372lbft at 5000rpm

 

340bhp at 6000rpm power is dropping off still

 

Cam timing tomorrow but if it revs to 7000rpm it will do 400bhp

[MrSimba]

 

Excellent work!!!

[DJWilma]

 

So cams were checked and inlet was 1.8mm at tdc and exhaust was the correct 0.42mm. Inlet has been corrected and it made another 40bhp. But the dip in power at 6250rpm is still there. It does recover so tomorrow we go for more. But exhaust manifold gasket is blowing so needs changing.

 

Could be turbine housing but its got no more boost on the 11psi actuator.

 

So do I up the turbine housing to 0.82a/r and bolt on a 14psi actuator.

 

Or just accept it will be quick enough with 450bhp per tonne and get it on the road !

[MrSimba]

Honestly mine at 370bhp is very much a handful in anything other than dry! I'd stay with the smaller housing and have useable power, just work on smoothing out the dips @ 5300 & 6250, then run the engine for a few thousand miles & re-look then when you know reliability is there:)

 

Mines done nearly 3k miles since mapping and been faultless so am off to see Chris @ EFi monday to see how everythings running and fine tune the map from there