Dj Wilmas T Series 111S S2 400Bhp Ish

[Alex B]

Right looks like i have a Plan

 

Will be replacing the engine with another forged T series, i was going to try and make a short stroke 86mm by 86mm bore engine but the forged cranks were on a 12 week lead time and would of gone for bigger valves and billet cams and it all got very expensive

 

Hope to pick the newly built engine up next week, will post specs when i have it

Look forward to the rebirth of the T-series

[DJWilma]

Well i collect the engine on Thursday its a newly built 2068cc T series spec is as follows

Engine/Box

-2067cc forged using aged block, bored with torque plate

-Block decked by several mm

-Ceramic coated Arias Forged pistons with Moly side skirts

-Pauter custom rods (changed rod ratio) rated at 250hp per rod

-ARP Mains, big end and head studs

-Knife edged and balanced crank, fine balanced to 10k rpm

-Alloy sump

-Extra breather on front of block

-Wire ring grooves, stainless wire rings

-Copper headgasket with custom oil sealing

-New head casting taken and ported to the highest level by Sabre Heads, Roger this is Grants old engine

-Oversized valves (Stainless steel one piece)

-Double valve springs with custom caps

-Custom race grind cams

-Special cam belt (kevlar extra wide) with modified lower pulleys to suit

-Vernier pulleys

-Set up with 36-1 pulley and crank sensor for better accuracy on aftermarket ECU (may not fit in my engine bay tbc)

-4.5kg Billet flywheel

-AP Twin place clutch with custom bearing carrier (may use my setup though)

-PG1 220 box ratios, built with new bearings, syncros and type B Torsen. Shimmed correctly have a W4 box so may change the final drive and get a K4 or C6

-Cut down custom engine loom, losing all uneeded wires

-LS7 coils and custom leads with custom bracket

- Daihatsu Charade altenator under inlet (std is under exhaust but my charge cooler is in the way)

[DJWilma]

Ok, so i have done some silly things in my life. Jumped out of a plane naked, woke up on a dance floor dressed in a sumo suit whilst the cleaner was cleaning around me etc etc

However i have never been so embarressed as when i just got the call about my engine, seems a distinct lack of oil was the reason for the failure. It had a mere 1lt of oil in the sump, which would explain the "knocking noise" from the engine. 

Worst still is that the Turbo is pretty much seized solid and as its a roller bearing turbo and looks to be junk !

So a very expensive mistake, simply not checking the oil after an oil leak (return pipe from turbo) and a faulty oil pressure sensor and oil switch (Light on stack doesnt work and ecu display was set to the wrong oil pressure)...... [Censored] shit [Censored] [Censored] 

Anyway the good news is the new engine should be fitted in the next day or so then a replacement turbo needs to be sourced and fitted.

I have bought

A new clutch, helix rated to 425lbft, its a 6 paddle so i hope its more than digital
A custom Inlet with bigger inlet tracks, 660cc injectors still though (may or may not fit)
Placed an order for a 60litre pro alloy fuel tank
New pressure switch for oil

Then we can wind the bloody thing up and break the 450bhp barrier, i can sleep a happy man as long as the wife doesnt find the receipts

I have thoughts of a bigger turbo, EFR Twin scroll but the injectors will need replacing and quite frankly 320bhp was more than the roads needed.........must resist 

[Martin R]

This is going to be epic    

[DJWilma]

I hope so, new engine should be and running next week

 

But the old engine is now apart, the pistons and the head are undamaged

 

The turbo is stiff, with no play, so its been shipped to Turbo Dynamics to see if they can repair and upgrade to ceramic bearings

 

Rods have taken the brunt of the lack of oil, NO 2 has spun so the rods are basically junk

 

[Martin R]

Interesting pics thanks for sharing. It suprised me its damaged the rods and caps that much. You would have thought the brearings would have protected them ( except the spun one ) They must have got mighty hot.

[DJWilma]

Yep the turbo is pretty much seized as well hoping its just the bearings but have a feeling i will need a new turbo, a 60 mile trip with no oil in the engine does that

[Dr H]

AET Turbos can refurb stuff. They did an Audi one for me years ago-looked good as new when it came back.

 

http://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/passenger/turbo-repairs

[DJWilma]

AET Turbos can refurb stuff. They did an Audi one for me years ago-looked good as new when it came back.

 

http://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/passenger/turbo-repairs

 

Its with Turbo Dynamics as we speak and i am hoping its just the bearings, but if the shaft has got hot there are some core components that Garrett dont do on the aftermarket

 

If it is repairable i will go for the Motorsport option, ceramic bearings etc for no other reason that the sales guy mentioned it......such a sucker

[DJWilma]

Clutch is in its a Helix 2.5 from Grant at GBE, hoping it will cope with the 450lbft torque and wont be too digital

 

 

Results on the Turbo are in, and its all good in the hood. Basically needed new bearings and a slight fettle and definite lack of oil issue.

 

Lovely Service from Turbo Dynamics, they even installed their motorsport spec when they re-furbed it. I have no idea why i said yes but the word "motorsport" sounded good. Its basically ceramic bearings which needed replacing anyway. They collected the turbo stripped inspected and had it back within the week and less than half price of a new turbo.

 

Engines back in and partly plumbed in

 

Just going to add a smallish intercooler in the side pod to assist the charge cooler, looking at the data log its highest ever temp was 48C but its never been on track so thought we'd pop one in with a little more ducting as well for cold air.

 

Hopefully be back in action next week.......finally 

[DJWilma]

Well I finally got time to collect the car, bit of an epic trip Bournemouth to Carlisle and back in a day about 760miles in total

 

Good news was it gave me time to run the new 2.1 engine in. Was very tight when i pick it up and with wet roads it felt, well horrible. Looks good too. Need to add some heat shield to some pipework but will get this done.

 

 

Good news was that the car loosened up on the journey back, it now has a 60litre Pro Alloy tank fitted (although it only took 52 litres, petrol poured out the filler so knew it was full) and it nearly made it back on the one tank !

 

Engine now revs to 7760rpm according to the log so i need to re-set the limiter to 7500rpm

 

Clutch now holds and although a low pedal it grips well, gear linkage needs some adjustment though

 

Engine now feels lovely, had a little play with a V10 R8 on his way back from the EVO triangle, on low boost, and it was neck and neck, managed to pull up along side in a traffic jam and the driver was a little shocked....as was i..... His comment was this is silly quick and you caught me up. Did mention i had another 120bhp and he just shook his head;) 

 

Curves arent great to be honest, car has too much wheel spin when turning the boost up. And fueling boost etc werent finalised so these are not adjusted

 

1.34 Bar boost was 386 @ 6200 rpm

 

 

1.45 Bar was 412bhp but wheels were a spinning

 

 

So will when i get a chance i will get some in car footage and drive by's

 

[Cbaileyuk]

Keep us posted on how it all pans out.

[DJWilma]

Was noticed that i put up two identical curves

 

so here is the 412bhp curve and it looks like it just dies at 6200 rpm but notice the boost also drops off. This is due to wheel spin

 

Engine is happy to pull to 7500rpm, actually hit 7750rpm on my log 

[DJWilma]

Been asked for a drive by video

 

15 second of your life you will never get back

 

[DJWilma]

Been away for a few weeks so took the car for a spin today in the rain so good time to play about with the traction control. DTA has a a wet / dry setting. Dry is limited to 10% slip, but i can adjust this from the car and this allows the car to slide about to about 10 degrees by cutting up to 75% ignition. Wet is Zero slip etc

 

Wound the boost up to 1.7 bar, 3rd gear and 60mph and put my foot down. Car accelerated hit the maxboost and the ECU cut all the power to the engine

 

Same at 0.7 bar and she just accelerated, albeit slightly slower than in the dry 

 

Then i noticed the oil temp, its fitted to the cold side of the water and as i have the EWP it doesnt have a thermostat and was showing 12C 

 

 

So got home and turned the engine off waited 5 mins, car has a turbo timer that circulates water and turns an engine bay fan on, and the gauge shows this

 

 

I think the oil temp sensor is on the cold return so will relocate it to the sump, and if its is running cold will add a thermostat.

 

Put the hard top on and took the worst photo ever