69 replies to this topic

[olliecast]

Evening all,
Thought i would share my engine and box conversion project with you all.

Really fancied a little more power and decided to go with a zr 160vvc motor and a b4bp box i picked up for a lucky 75 quid!

Stripped the b4bp box and bought a quaiffe lsd. Was going to fit a torsen but picked the quaiffe up for reasonable price.
also sourced steel caged bearings.
These are recommended for the diff only but thought i also would replace the other bearings while the box was apart too along with the input shaft seal and driveshaft seals.

diff with steel caged bearing and speedo drive fitted


Picked up my engine from a lad who had it in a zr along with another gearbox thats only covered 3500 miles! c4bp so decent ratios too (ill stick with the b4bp though ) engine has covered 50000 and is a 160 vvc unit.

Saw engine running and seemed fine albeit from a slightly noisey vvc mech but i`m assure that they are a common sound on these engines. also has an eliseparts flywheel and ap racing clutch.
heres the engine in the mrs`s polo!




electrically the engine is a mems 3 ecu which is alot different from the non vvc of my mems 1.9 series 1. i want to utilise the ecu however as it has been remapped by z and f tuning. I started labelling up the two different looms but have now found somebody who has done mems 1.9 to 3 conversions in the past who is going to splice the two looms for me!
also, i`ve found somebody who is going to program my existing 5as unit to the mems 3 ecu as the signal between the different units are the same.

engine in its temporary home



last thing to decide on was the exhaust.

Sourced a 2nd hand eliseparts 4-2-1 slip joint manifold and also got a solid lower mount.
couldnt help seeing what it was like so fitted it at the weekend, along with the alternator heatshield off the new engine and also a feed from the side vent to cool the alternator.

car seems alot quieter now but "seems" more nippy. Especially when accelerating onto the a52 in the morning!

anyway,  the beginning of sept is when the conversion is planned for so making sure everything is in place.

any further input appreciated on what else i shoul prepare, tips etc


one question is, is when i get to split the suspension to take out the driveshafts, is there any way of splitting so i dont have to do a full geo again?

cheers,
ollie



.

Edited by olliecast, 05 October 2012 - 04:22 PM.

[russelld]

AFAIK  if you if you put all the suspension back together as it came apart it should leave the geo settings as they were. If you want to check before and after settings let me know as I have made a rig and it only takes about an hour to set up and get all the readings.

I'm also in Nottingham and have access to a very level underground car park that makes an ideal all weather flat bed for taking readings.

Good luck with the conversion BTW.

Russ.

[TheRon]

You might be able to get enough room to get the driveshafts out by seperating the hub from the top plinth only (remember how many shims to keep the camber the same).

If not then you may have to unbolt the toe link as well but if you want to keep you geo the same then don't change the length of it (unbolt either end but leave the lock nuts done up tight).

[olliecast]

cheers guys.
should hopefully be ok then in terms of the geo.

just need to change th cambelt and manual tensioner then ready to go.

done an auto but never a manual tensioner, any tips?

[jimbo07g41]

As The Ron says, undo the shock and spring.  Also undo the top wishbone. You then pop the driveshaft with a pry bar or big screwdriver.  You can use something metal against the driveshaft seal to protect it.  Have a container ready to collect the GB oil.

If you dont touch the toe and pop the camber shims back, you should be fine.

Discard the stub screw and spring to tension the belt.  Just tighten a little bit and rotate twice making sure the timing marks line up again. Use the 90 degree method on the longest part of the belt, to check tightness.

[olliecast]

Cheers jimbo.
Will have a look as need to do the belt prior to the engine going in along with the tf water oil cooler.

Cheers
ollie

Oh and anyone who would like to donate an hour to show me the belt tightening technique will revive gifts and appreciation

[Martin R]

The manual tensioner method is unfortunatly a bit hit and miss. 90 degrees of twist at the middle of the longest point is probably the best method ( between exhaust cam wheel and crankshaft pulley ) You will soon know if its too tight as it will whine something terrible once warm.

However you dont want i too loose as it may jump and bend some valves. It would have too be really loose to do this though. IIRC it can jump at least a couple of teeth before there is any danger of contact. Buy a good quality tensioner and belt ( Gates ) would be my advice.

I may be able to spare an hour to have a nosey as this sounds an interesting project.

[olliecast]

Few more bits on their way:

Gulf Competition 5w-40 racing engine oil (5w40) -5 litres
Fuchs TITAN SINTOFLUID SAE 75W-80 synthetic manual transmission fluid
Prt thermostat
Manifold Studs and Nuts
Water Bottle Pressure Cap
Oil Filter Housing Gasket
VVC Middle Plenum Gasket
Inlet Manifold Gasket VVC & Throttle Bodies
Head To Manifold Gasket
Thermostat Housing 'O' Rings
Exhaust To Catalyst Gasket
Cambelt Tensioner Manual Tensioner
Cambelt VVC Manual Tensioner Type Cambelt
Oil Filter
Throttle Pedal Non-Slip Pads

Fuel Filter

[olliecast]

baffled sump installed


also needed a mechanical signal for the ecu to know how fast its going. Some use the abs sensor on the mems 3 but in the absence of abs, luckilly mine picks it up off the diff.difference in sensors below;




cheers
ollie

[jimbo07g41]

I keep meaning to do a baffled sump, loks nice.  You going to get it tacked in place?

Edited by jimbo07g41, 27 August 2012 - 07:22 PM.

[olliecast]

Sorry Jimbo?  Tacked in place?

[TheRon]

Are the baffles tacked in place by spots of weld or are they loose?

[olliecast]

sorry, being slow!

not sure but they were secure, its the dva baffle kit.

heres a few pics from the chap who had it before me:

[jimbo07g41]

If they are left loose they can move about.  Best drop the sump off and get them tacked with spots welds in place.

Edited by jimbo07g41, 28 August 2012 - 08:36 PM.

[dobbo]

I had a set of DVA baffles installed by a reputable garage and they untacked themselves, although one of the baffles had fatigued and the tack remained attached to the sump leaving a small bit of the baffle in the sump !

Make sure they're clinically clean (and the sump) before any tack welds are done.